Gregor Transom Repair

I'm hoping there are some guys with boat experience here that might know something about replacing the wood on the transom of a 12ft Gregor. The wood piece has dry rot and I need to replace it. The problem is that the wood covers almost the entire transom and there looks to be no way to replace it, as is, without cutting the aluminum. There is a brace welded to the floor that causes the need to slide the new wood straight down against the transom. Also there are corner pieces welded on top of the corners blocking verticle movement making it impossible to slide the wood straight down against the transom. That leaves me the choice of cutting the aluminum or replace the wood with a smaller piece that I can manage to squeeze in. I'm not sure if the wood adds strength to the transom or is just something to clamp the motor to. Can I safely use a new piece of wood small enough to squeeze in to place?

I'm hoping there are some guys with boat experience here that might know something about replacing the wood on the transom of a 12ft Gregor. The wood piece has dry rot and I need to replace it. The problem is that the wood covers almost the entire transom and there looks to be no way to replace it, as is, without cutting the aluminum. There is a brace welded to the floor that causes the need to slide the new wood straight down against the transom. Also there are corner pieces welded on top of the corners blocking verticle movement making it impossible to slide the wood straight down against the transom. That leaves me the choice of cutting the aluminum or replace the wood with a smaller piece that I can manage to squeeze in. I'm not sure if the wood adds strength to the transom or is just something to clamp the motor to. Can I safely use a new piece of wood small enough to squeeze in to place?

Pictures for us home mechanics that never worked on that particular boat? Or "pictures or it won't happen" ??

Some guys bend the aluminium transom cap up and then food back down. Other cut it off and use a custom transom cap. Use marine grade plywood and coat with epoxy. Do not use pressure treated wood.

This is pretty common and lots of other forums talk about it, just maybe not your model specific.

I'm hoping there are some guys with boat experience here that might know something about replacing the wood on the transom of a 12ft Gregor. The wood piece has dry rot and I need to replace it. The problem is that the wood covers almost the entire transom and there looks to be no way to replace it, as is, without cutting the aluminum. There is a brace welded to the floor that causes the need to slide the new wood straight down against the transom. Also there are corner pieces welded on top of the corners blocking verticle movement making it impossible to slide the wood straight down against the transom. That leaves me the choice of cutting the aluminum or replace the wood with a smaller piece that I can manage to squeeze in. I'm not sure if the wood adds strength to the transom or is just something to clamp the motor to. Can I safely use a new piece of wood small enough to squeeze in to place?

Pictures for us home mechanics that never worked on that particular boat? Or "pictures or it won't happen" ??

Yes I'm picking it up tomorrow. Of course the question "can the wood replacement be made smaller" really isn't shown in pictures. But if it helps, I'll post them tomorrow. 

Some guys bend the aluminium transom cap up and then food back down. Other cut it off and use a custom transom cap. Use marine grade plywood and coat with epoxy. Do not use pressure treated wood.

This is pretty common and lots of other forums talk about it, just maybe not your model specific.

I have no doubt there are "ways" to get it done. I'm hoping to find out if I can safely use a smaller piece of wood instead. I'm thinking I'll end up putting more time effort and money into it by double what the boat is worth. 

Are you using with an outboard?

Are you using with an outboard?

Yes it comes with a 4hp. I think it is rated up to 18 or 20.

Photos

Not alot of hp on the tail.....id just go in with a smaller piece.  And blue jeans brian g offers up the textbook marine ply and epoxy solution....Id counter with exterior grade ply and epoxy (or vinylester resin if you're lookin to get it done on the cheap).  Ive used marine ply to fab parts and at 3x the cost im not convinced its any better for small projects like this.  Dont forget to soak the drilled bolt holes. 

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Keep posting pics and info about your process. I just got a small (12") fishing boat, so I'm interested in all things small-fishing-boat (while realizing this is a kayaking forum).   

12"?

That's small!

Doesn't look too bad to replace, it went in one way ...I'd just start removing screws and hardware till the piece works it's way loose and use the wood as a template to make a new one... replace all hardware with new marine grade..

Since it's all aluminum skinned on the outside if it were me (I'm mostly nuts after all I fish out a 12 ft Tupperware bowl) I'd cut that out and make two pieces that fit snug one on top and, one on the bottom seal the piss out of them, jam them in and sandwich a plate across the whole inside seam using the existing bolt holes or add a few more then seal the puss out of it again. For the money I'd go marine grade plywood and still seal it in should get plenty of years out of it. Keep us posted.

Once you figure out how to get it out, I'd recommend you replace it with marine plastic starboard. It's a little pricey but for such a small piece it might be worth it. You don't have to mess with epoxy and you'll never have to worry about it ever again. Have it mine. FYI you can double it up for thickness and it's just as strong, meaning if the existing transom is 1-1/2" thick you can use two 3/4" starboard pieces that will be less expensive than a 1-1/2" piece of starboard.  good luck!

I replaced the transom on my 12 foot Gregor recently. I ended up cutting the braces horizontally near the bottom so I could get the old wood out and new wood in. I sandwiched the cut braces with 1/8" aluminum sheet and bolted to put it back together. Worked great, and no welding or bending aluminum involved.

The new transom was two layers of 1/2" marine grade with a layer of 5/8" ACX sandwiched in the middle. Cut the pieces bigger than you need, laminate together with some Tight Bond III, screw it together around the edges, and sit something heavy on it while it sets. Cut to shape, then seal.

I used the "old timers blend" of spar varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. Keep soaking that into it until it won't soak any more, let that dry, then apply a few coats of straight spar varnish to protect the surface.


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I replaced the transom on my 12 foot Gregor recently. I ended up cutting the braces horizontally near the bottom so I could get the old wood out and new wood in. I sandwiched the cut braces with 1/8" aluminum sheet and bolted to put it back together. Worked great, and no welding or bending aluminum involved.

The new transom was two layers of 1/2" marine grade with a layer of 5/8" ACX sandwiched in the middle. Cut the pieces bigger than you need, laminate together with some Tight Bond III, screw it together around the edges, and sit something heavy on it while it sets. Cut to shape, then seal.

I used the "old timers blend" of spar varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. Keep soaking that into it until it won't soak any more, let that dry, then apply a few coats of straight spar varnish to protect the surface.


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I'm thinking that cutting the braces is the best way to go. Can you post a picture of the braces now?