Gregor Transom Repair

As we can see, because this piece is welded on you can't install the same size piece without moving it towards the bow so it can clear the aluminum as you push the wood down and in.

As we can see in this picture I can't move the wood towards the bow before I slide it in. The two brackets would be in the way of installing the wood.

As we can see in this picture I can't move the wood towards the bow before I slide it in. The two brackets would be in the way of installing the wood.

Them there will have to be cut no matter what. Lots of pictures as you progress.

Before cutting it I suggest unbolting it n loosen It all up, it's metal it'll bend back.  If you do decide to cut it at least leave a flange to rebolt a new bracket to the transom and flange.

If I were to install a new piece that was as wide as the two arrows I would be able to slide it straight down maybe. The aluminum that folds over the top edge of the wood still might cause the wood to lead forward enough to keep it from sliding in behind the braces.

Before cutting it I suggest unbolting it n loosen It all up, it's metal it'll bend back.  If you do decide to cut it at least leave a flange to rebolt a new bracket to the transom and flange.

From what AlexB described I'm sure there was some left after he cut it so he would have something to sandwhich it to.

Here's a pic. Yeah, I left enough there so I could bolt to it. The black schmear around the nuts and bolts is 3M 5200 adhesive. You want something between the stainless steel hardware and the aluminum to prevent corrosion between the different metals.




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DO NOT use a standard cut off wheel to cut the aluminum. It will fall apart and send shards of material flying. I ended up using my oscillating multi tool with a fine toothed wood cutting blade. Worked great.

Also, I suggest dry fitting the new transom into the hull, marking and drilling all the holes (a little over sized), THEN sealing it however you choose to. That way it won't rot if a little water seeps in through a bolt hole.

You could even take it one step further and drill all the holes out to ~1", fill with thickened epoxy, let that set, then re-drill the holes to the correct size (through the epoxy "plug". I didn't have enough patience for that. (I only paid $900 for this 1977 hull - I just want to use it until it dies, not turn it into a masterpiece).

(Edited to correct all the auto-correct errors... it turned "re-drill" into "refrigerate"...)

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Here's a pic. Yeah, I left the enough there so I could bolt to it. The black schmear around the nuts and bolts is 3M 5200 adhesive. You want something between the stainless steel hardware and the aluminum to prevent corrosion between the different metals.




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Photo doesn't show.

How about this one?

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Or this one... I can see it no tapatalk on my iPhone

I'm posting from Tapatalk. Might be why...

I can email it to you if that works better.


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I'm posting from Tapatalk. Might be why...

I can email it to you if that works better.


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Now its showing. 

I did this to my Gregor a few years ago. I contacted Gregor and ordered new knee braces and had them welded in placed. My boat is a 1978 so the newer knee braces are way nicer and thicker. I glued two pieces of marine grade plywood together and covered it with epoxy resin (I bought from West Marine).  I also put a thin piece of aluminum over the wood to protect it further. Should last longer than the rest of the boat    Good luck!

I did this to my Gregor a few years ago. I contacted Gregor and ordered new knee braces and had them welded in placed. My boat is a 1978 so the newer knee braces are way nicer and thicker. I glued two pieces of marine grade plywood together and covered it with epoxy resin (I bought from West Marine).  I also put a thin piece of aluminum over the wood to protect it further. Should last longer than the rest of the boat    Good luck!

Where did you go for the welding, how much did it cost and was it easy in and out or a pain?