In hull transducer mount advice needed?

I have been watching videos on all sorts of ways to mount your transducer.  I would like to change my mounting location.  I ran on top of a cement pilon at high tide and I don't want to risk damaging my transducer any further.  I was looking at mounting mine in hull.  Using foam and goop.  Does anyone here run this setup?  If so, how well does this method work?  Are there any losses or tips you could shoot my way.  Thank you in advance.

 
  Do the water bath install.  Use the goop to glue the foam to hull, hollow out opening for the transducer, (Make sure the foam is thick enough to allow water to completely  cover the transducer as its sits in it!) Each use, you only have to remember to add water to the bath.
  Problems that can occur  if you "glue" the transducer to the hull, is cavation.  Air bubbles can and do form in various glue mediums and air blocks the ultrasonic pulses transmitted from the transducer. This happened to my first transducer install I did on my outback.  I have a water bath now. With transducer submerged in a bath of water there can be air pockets below the transducer!

I goop my transducer to the hull. I've experimented with other methods (water bath, hanging it over the side), and prefer the goop. I don't notice any loss of signal strength or any other issues. The only negative I can see is that you can't move the transducer from boat to boat, so if that's not an issue, go for it.

As previously mentioned, you do need to avoid air bubbles in the goop. I make a small cutout from a pool noodle and glue that down first, like what you might do for a water bath (but it's a goop bath...). That'll keep the goop where you need it while it dries around the transducer. And, I put some weight on top of the transducer to keep it in place while the goop is drying.

Go to the hardware store and get some "duct seal".
Build a well and squeeze it over the sides of the trans. Leave an opening so you can add water.
Will hold better than any other and can be removed if you need to change trans later.
;0)

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Yes, a lot of people use in-hull water bath mounts and you'll find a lot of information through a site search.

In my experience, no single method of mounting a transducer in hull is better than any of the others.  They all work equally well.

There's usually a very slight degradation of down-scan imaging quality if that's important to you, and you lose some water temperature sensitivity - but if you grab a cheap aquarium thermometer, you can get a pretty good idea of how far off the on-screen temperature is from actual water temperature and do the mental math from then on.

If you mount the transducer in Goop, be careful to not get air bubbles in the Goop.

The GOOP method works fine, IF you are lucky/skilled enough to end up with no air bubbles. (I'm a pretty handy guy, and I failed twice with the GOOP method).

The GOOP method is kindof a crapshoot. The water bath method works flawlessly. Every time.


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The GOOP method works fine, IF you are lucky/skilled enough to end up with no air bubbles. (I'm a pretty handy guy, and I failed twice with the GOOP method).

The GOOP method is kindof a crapshoot. The water bath method works flawlessly. Every time.

I've gooped transducers at least 4 times, and never had any problem. And I know I'm not that lucky or skillful...

I use the water bath method, duct seal and foam bath work well for me.  I also like to move my FF from yak to yak, so I never gooped it down. 

Thank you all for the great advice.  I have looked up all methods.  And all input is much apreciated.  I wonder if a heat gun would help all the bubbles escape from the goop.  Kinda like epoxy when rod building.  Well when I finally do my install I'll be sure to bore you with a step by step with pictures.  Thanks again.

Thank you all for the great advice.  I have looked up all methods.  And all input is much apreciated.  I wonder if a heat gun would help all the bubbles escape from the goop.  Kinda like epoxy when rod building.  Well when I finally do my install I'll be sure to bore you with a step by step with pictures.  Thanks again.

I just put the goop in my pocket for a couple minutes, so that it's easier to squeeze out. I think a heat gun (or even a hair dryer) might be too much and actually cause bubbles.

I suspect that when people have trouble with air bubbles, it's because the goop has pulled away from the hull, or the transducer moved while the goop was drying. To prevent the former, scuff the area lightly with sandpaper and clean with rubbing alcohol. For the latter, use some sort of cutout (i.e., pool noodle) to keep the goop from running out, and put some weight on top of the transducer for 24 hours.

Thank you all for the great advice.  I have looked up all methods.  And all input is much apreciated.  I wonder if a heat gun would help all the bubbles escape from the goop.  Kinda like epoxy when rod building.  Well when I finally do my install I'll be sure to bore you with a step by step with pictures.  Thanks again.

I just put the goop in my pocket for a couple minutes, so that it's easier to squeeze out. I think a heat gun (or even a hair dryer) might be too much and actually cause bubbles.

I suspect that when people have trouble with air bubbles, it's because the goop has pulled away from the hull, or the transducer moved while the goop was drying. To prevent the former, scuff the area lightly with sandpaper and clean with rubbing alcohol. For the latter, use some sort of cutout (i.e., pool noodle) to keep the goop from running out, and put some weight on top of the transducer for 24 hours.

Thames sounds like a plan.

Go to the hardware store and get some "duct seal".
Build a well and squeeze it over the sides of the trans. Leave an opening so you can add water.
Will hold better than any other and can be removed if you need to change trans later.
;0)

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

This!! Ive done about everything as well, if planning on keeping the ducer in the same yak, Goop it or better yet, Lexel it. If not, the Duct Seal way is awesome and works great, reads water temps almost perfectly as well.

Goop method has worked for me 5x and failed 1x. Water bath method has worked for me, but I hate having random water inside my hull, especially when it comes to mussel inspex. And some of my water baths have eventually leaked, leaving the bath dry after 8+ hours OTW. I've used duct seal a handful of times and it lost its stickyness every time. Maybe because I store yaks on their sides and transport them upside-down? But it always comes loose and leaks water...I hate that stuff. (Altho I have a film canister of the stuff in my emergency bag)

I had the exact same question when i first came onto the site and ended up taking NowWhereMans advice on the goop method. Turned out perfectly and works great!! I had my doubts on whether the hull and goop would affect any of the readings, but it has no significant impact on any of the readings.

I have used duct seal and didn't like it.  Tried the waterbath a few times and would get leaks, probably from poor installation.  The big pain for me has been remembering to fill tbe well with water before I launch.  It would happen more times than not.
In January I installed a Dragonfly transducer in a in hull waterbath.
I used a 2" inch thick block of foam, traced the transducer outline on it then cut out the hole for a snug fit for the transducer.  I then gooped the foam inside the hull, making sure to use plenty of goop.  After allowing the goop to set for a couple of days I put the tranducer in the well  in the foam so that it was firmly seated and gooped it a bit in front and rear to hold it in place.  Then I filled the well with water up to about 1/8" from the top. I cut out the side of a large clear water bottle to fit the top of the foam block and gooped it on.  Been sitting upside down on the trailer for two months without leaking and works great on the water.  The real test will come when the weather gets got.