Boat control and the single guy

I fished in the ocean for the first time recently and found boat control to be a real challenge. So my question is, 'How do you do it?'
Should I use a rod holder, and, if so, how do you keep your bait in contact with a constantly changing bottom? If I go with an anchoring system of some sort, how do you keep the line from becoming a deck hazard when it's not in use. How heavy and how many anchors should I expect to donate to sticky bottom rocks? Is a drift sock the answer and what's the best method of safely setting one out and bringing one in from a yak in open water? I have a tandem boat as well, but the unpredictable movements of a second person seem to present new problems, not solutions. Worse, I would likely be the one in back paddling the boat while someone fishes up front. Any help in this regard would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, It was awesome and I hope to get out again soon.

Here's a pic of my daughter next to my first ever yak caught ocean fish.

Everything depends on the conditions as to what approach you should take.
I personally never anchor while fishing in the ocean. Only when diving.
If the conditions are windy then definitely use a drift chute. Otherwise your offering either will not be on the bottom or it will be traveling way too fast.
I keep my paddle across my lap in case I need to move the bow a little left or right while I fish. Just dip which ever blade you need to in the water to control your direction.

2 options seem to be used:

you can tie off to kelp.

you can use a drift chute. I tie it from the side in light winds,
but off the bow with a long rope with some stretch for when you should go in,
but you want to fish a bit more.

never heard of anybody using an anchor in the ocean,
except as tote says, to keep your boat there while you are diving.

"you can tie off to kelp."

That makes sense as I was hanging onto some kelp heads out there, but your method sounds better - less messy and easier on the hands  . One question regarding this method, would it tend to tear up the kelp and degrade the habitat or are the kelp pretty tough?

What about a rod holder? I haven't installed one yet and just held my rod and paddle. I'm curious to know if anyone has much luck staying in the fish zone for long without snagging on the bottom. The fish seem to hit hard enough to set the hook themselves, so a rod holder would seem to make sense. That said, I think I got better action when I was able to use a more active presentation.

A rod holder is nice to have when trolling or when retying etc.It would work for fishing suspended fish (blues and blacks,etc., but if you want to be near the bottom you will probably snag a lot.Normally for bottom fish you are constantly taking up and letting down line,trying to keep from snagging your lure.

A drift chute will probably solve your problem.  You actually WANT to be moved by the wind or current because then your rig moves across the bottom and you cover more territory.  If you were perfectly still it's not like a fish is likely to stare at  your lure for 5 minutes then go 'oooh, all right...' and eat it. 

You can generally fish off the right or left side, whichever is upwind, and the only time I've ever really cared about kayak orientation when in the open ocean was when seasickness was coming on and I wanted to be staring at the shore to help with that.

I have a rod holder but only use it when drifting for halibut. When fishing for rockfish and even salmon, I'll tuck the butt of the rod under my right thigh and let the rod lean into my left shin - I do this for two reasons:

1) it's a great way to trooch (trolling + mooching SLOWLY) - it's hand's free yet, you can get to your rod quickly enough once you feel the "taps" from a fish.
2) if you find yourself getting to close to the kelp or boilers, simply tuck your rod  and paddle away.

I have a rod holder but only use it when drifting for halibut. When fishing for rockfish and even salmon, I'll tuck the butt of the rod under my right thigh and let the rod lean into my left shin - I do this for two reasons:

1) it's a great way to trooch (trolling + mooching SLOWLY) - it's hand's free yet, you can get to your rod quickly enough once you feel the "taps" from a fish.
2) if you find yourself getting to close to the kelp or boilers, simply tuck your rod  and paddle away.

This is what I do too.

Rod holders are, for me, a place to have my rods and net while I'm paddling.  My dad put his rod in the holder while trolling for salmon and managed to get it out and land a fish, but I don't like the mechanics of realizing you have a fish on, turning your body, reaching behind you, and getting the rod out of the holder while a fish is yanking on the other end.  I've seen some rod holders mounted up between the feet or to the sides up there, and that looks like it works pretty well.  Under the thigh and resting on the shin is what I like - it does mean that I often have to paddle more on one side while trolling, but I don't care about that.  Left arm needs to catch up with right arm anyway!   

"I fished in the ocean for the first time recently and found boat control to be a real challenge."  What kind of boat are you running in?  You should be able to gain complete control and excellent balance out there in the right boat.  This also goes for tandems.

"What kind of boat are you running in?  You should be able to gain complete control and excellent balance out there in the right boat.  This also goes for tandems."

I like this 'complete control' you speak of - that would be fantastic. The boat was a Cobra tandem that I fished both solo and in tandem. Not having a bottom-finder yet, I was paddling mostly around the rocks that I could see. They tended to break up the swells and push me from side to side in unpredictable ways. I also tried open water, but found myself moving too quickly across the surface to keep a line on the bottom. I had my best success fishing the relatively calm water right beside where the current was running around the rock, but when I caught something, landed it and got myself back in order, I usually found myself a good ways downwind of where I started.

The next time I go out, I intend to bring a drift sock along. I also intend to spend some time kicking around this site looking for an example of how to properly rig one. I'm still at a stage where I don't like moving around too much while I'm out there.

In windy conditions, I often cast ahead of my drift, so my line will be straight down by the time I drift over it.
I also like to paddle upwind with the bail open and the rod under my leg (ala Mooch and Abking) until I think my bait is at a good depth (close to the bottom) and downwind of my drift...then close the bail and drift over my line.
I have also found it effective to put the rod in a scotty holder on the side of my boat (or the under-the-leg technique) so I can use both hands to paddle and maintain my position, paddling slowly against the wind, and keep my line straight down. Rockfish will often hook themselves, and if not, just gotta be quick to grab your rod and set the hook.

I have a driftsock but haven't used it yet. Do they really work that well???

PK

The rocks you were fishing are commonly called boiler rocks.  The unpredictable currents are created by swell surge rushing around the structure, not much you can do about that and anchoring up is probably not the best idea should a big set roll through and break in your fishing area.  Best thing to do is keep your head on a swivel and make adjustments with your paddle as necessary.  You can deploy a drift chute in the open water to slow you down a bit or use heavier tackle to stay in contact with the bottom.  

I would a advise against using a drift chute if you are in an area with boiler rocks and kelp.  Besides getting snagged, the chute could prevent you from making  a quick getaway when you need to. 

If the kelp patties are open enough, I use the ,occh/trooch technique with swimbaits while potholing the kelp.  Pull up when I see a big stack of weed, and drop back down when I'm clear; slowly paddling to cover territory.

Or, tie off to a kelp frond and work a hole, then move to the next holde and do the same.

Chjute is great on the open water to slow your drigt down if the drift is caused by winc.  If it is current, it moves with the current along with your boat.

Fishfinder is a great tool to ,ocate those reefy areas in the deeprwater where there's no kelp.

Sounds like you have a good start on all this business, nice lingcod!

Allen

Its also a matter of matching your depth, jig weight, line type and the conditions.  In FAC conditions you can fish just about anything.  If there is a drift (which is actually a good thing) you will need to fish a depth that will allow you to achieve and maintain a straight drop with the gear you are using. 

Lighter jigs, plastics and heavy line won't be able to fish as deep as iron and spectra under the same conditions.  After your line gets out to the side a bit, reel in and redrop  so its is vertical again.  The more horizontal your presentation, the more likely you will snag.   

Get a rod holder or two.  At least one behind you will allow you to paddle with both hands while moving around.

The best way to rig a drift sock is to make a shock line.  Purchase about 8' of 5/8 bungie from ACE and tie a loop on one end and a brass clip on the other.  Put the clip through the loop around something to attach that end, and clip it to your kayak (or anchor/chute/other kayak).  In a pinch you can use it for a stringer too. 

The strechy bungie helps immensely over a simple rope in that it will absorb the bobbing of the boat and effect of wind and waves, otherwise a non-strechy attachment will result in the rope jerking tight when waves hit it, making for an uncomfortable ride and possibly even knocking you over.