Downriggers....

not sure if im posting this image correctly..but here is a pic of my rig, pretty much the same as bluekayaks setup, but a stiffer rod with roller tip and a penn 4/0 reel. Im going to try trolling a 2lb ball to start with and see how much drag effects my paddling. I may switch the position of the downrigger rod to the back if it pulls me too hard to one side. But it is pretty much dropping off the bow of my kayak, so maybe it will not pull too much. Only reason for concern is that I dont have a ruddder. Might even work better dropped off the port side of the bow, since my kayak tends to want to swing right(note: new paddler..lol) If all else fails, change over to a diver and go from there.

I’ve been following this discussion closely and just tested my downrigger yesterday at Bodega Bay.  For me the difficult part is deciding where to mount it.  I want to be able to use it while in a normal driving position, but I don’t want it in the way when getting in and out or sitting sidesaddle.  For now I have it mounted on my crate, which is okay but not quite perfect, because it is a bit awkward to reach back and slowly lower the weight when I’m pedaling along (Hobie Adventure).  I’m thinking of a small swing arm mounted on the crate, so I can swing it forward to raise and lower and swing it aft a bit so it is out of the way.  It only needs to move about 6 inches.  My fishing rod is in a forward rod holder angled across my yak so I can watch the rod tip.  Personally, I think a rearview mirror to watch your rod tip would be horrible.

I think the “downrigger rod” idea has merit and there some things about it I really like, such as; it can go in a regular rod holder, no mounting required, and I could lower the weight easily while pedaling.  But the downrigger is small and compact and I really like the one crank equals one foot part.  I don’t like drag knob which you have to loosen before you can crank it back up, which means two hands.  It needs an anti-reverse lever.

The big test will come when I hook a Salmon!

Windrider, I can see why that would be a problem. I trolled today at Pt Pinos with a setup such as the one bluekayak has pics of. A stiff rod for a downrigger up front in a scotty rod holder. Terminal rod a little behind me in a recessed rod holder, a little hard to watch for strikes, but it worked pretty good until we trolled uphill. Then my downrigger line was getting in the way of my paddle stroke. I was using a 2lb ball, but the current really lifts them up when your going uphill. Our setup allows for a little more adjustment with the rod placement. But once you mount your downrigger, you dont want to have to move it. Kayaks deff have their limits..goodluck,kimo

My next project is to figure out a way to mark the line of my downrigger every 25ft with something that will not wear, come off, or damage the line? perhaps something crimped on. like they use for steel cable?

My next project is to figure out a way to mark the line of my downrigger every 25ft with something that will not wear, come off, or damage the line? perhaps something crimped on. like they use for steel cable?

maybe just get a line counter.  I think they run about $10.

good idea! i didnt know they had those? just saw one for $9.99 at basspro shops,thanks

I'm using a 38 oz. ball on my downrigger and was wondering if anyone has made their own downrigger weight yet?  Something streamlined would be nice so I can have the weight I want without as much drag.  I've searched the net a bit and everything I've found so far is too heavy.  Anyone have a lead melting pot and want to make kayak downrigger weights?

Well, you should try the rear view mirror before you decide that it is "horrible".

that is what you use in your car every day.

you don't have to watch the rod tip every second. as long as it is in
your peripheral vision, when it moves you will notice it.

the biology of the retina is such that you have a small part in the center
which is high resolution and color. the outer parts are monochrome and
detect mainly motion. try reading someting out of the corner of you eye.
you can't do it.

but that is why you can see something coming at you "out of the corner of your eye".
including sirens and tailgaters. motion detecters at the edge of your retina.

I think something like a car side-mounted rear view mirror mounted
up by your feet would let you watch the rod behind you too.
that might be better than the bicycle commuting mirror on the shades
as the one problem with a long rod
is if the rod tip is high and you have the sun behind you. the sun in the mirror
has been a pain before. if the tip is lower, it's not as bad of course.

another idea would be a rattle on the rodtip, or some other notification device,
or a combo of the two.

yesterday I felt a 12" trout hit my rod straight behind me. I didn't have the mirror,
I just felt it somehow.

If bluekayak can do 30 miles with the rod out to the side, he can do 50 miles with
the rod straight back, or else go two days running. in general, the kayak goes
much straighter and it wants to tip over less if the weight is on the centerline of
the kayak.

when I looked at the salmon trolling thing, what struck me was the physical effort.
If I could reduce that I would have a better chance at hooking something.
That seemed to be about true last year in my 4 or so attempts.

I think a reel mounted just behind you that drops the weight right over the side straight
down at  your hips and a rod pointed straight back with some sort of mirror/rattle etc,
is the arrangement that will let you put the most miles in trolling.

for a downrigger I would like a regular line counter reel and a roller guide tiptop just ahead of it
like a 6" rod basically that drops the weight at my right or left hip just 1/2" from the side of
the kayak. I am doing this with a cord and weight, hand-lowered for trout and it seems to
work pretty well so far.

Well, I am over this flu finally, if I got out one of the next few weekends,
I will do a combo of straight back trolling and 11 or 1 o'clock trooching, and some real mooching.

btw, looks like REI sells the sunglasses mirror I bought:
http://www.cycleaware.com/press/030410-rei-announcement.php

Best,
J

I called FW to see how small the fish weight go and the guys say the spherical shape of the balls are actually the best   

Although it seems like if that was true there'd be more fish shaped like bowlingballs swimming around out there

One of the phyzizists out there oughta know that one

I've also heard that balls provide the least amount of surface area... hence less drag.  It made sense to me, so that's why I favor small lead balls for mooching or trolling.

a rattle on the rodtip,

clicker

mickfish, I guess the clicker is not enough the salmon can swim straight up, doesn't always pull out line.

but the rod tip does bounce up and down. maybe a McCoy rattle taped to the tip. you'd notice the different
sound I think.

blue, check your pms. between babies and jobs I hope we have some time this year.

J

Gosh break for lunch and read the forums--man I am going through fishing withdrawl having not wet a line since November.

Back when I was a Century road riding fiend, I wore a mirror I clipped to my sunglasses so I could see cars comign up behind me whiel in the drops without turning my head. These might work well for those of you who want to keep an eye on your aft rig while paddling.
Mine is a rectanglualr one with a wide field of view (similar to that shown in the first link) but I bought it a Slough's on First Street. He's still there and may still stock them:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bicycle-Mirror-Helmet-Sunglass-Mirror-Bike-Mirrors-New_W0QQitemZ280067545090QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=35144

well this is not for salmon, but
one place the straight off the back was fun was inching between kelp stalks.

if you don't go directly over any stalks, your rig doesn't either if it's directly
behind you pointing back.

I got a halibut like that 2 summers ago.  no wind, no drift, was inching a live
'chovie along behind me in the sand patches between the kelp and got hooked up.

blue,

An old fellow roadie! Hizzah! I have a triple-butted Italian Stallion steel frame gathering dust and one of the last aluminum Klein mountain bikes when he sold out to Trek--they sold them off cheap and I snatched one up.

Anyway, thought the idea had merit. I need to pull out that mirror and try it kayaking--might be fun in case Joel tries to sneak a banana on board behind my back . The power boaters at Mendo next month will definitely think I am looped (not far from the truth I am afraid according to my wife anyway while under the influence of fishing fever )

another idea would be a rattle on the rodtip

Catfish bells work well and are very inexpensive. 



I have been around and around in my head on this whole issue and I think I'm just gonna start out simple first and see if I can get away with that first. 

I am going to use THIN 15# spectra which is only 4# diameter.  Salmon don't really fight very hard, and that should be plenty of strength.   I am adding a 2 oz sliding sinker, and a thick heavy spoon.  I tried a recommended but wierd little cleo last year and it SLAYED them on the pb. 

This combo should sink like a stone and be good for at least 60-80 feet @ 1.5 mph and the sliding sinker should keep too much mojo off the hook.