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Topic: Drift boat style drop anchor  (Read 24677 times)

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SBD

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The anchors are approximately 4 inches wide at the top and 4.5 inches long.


fishshim

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  • thanks for the pic PAL!
  • View Profile Mark Shimizu Design-Jewelry
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Pat, The anchor mold is close to an equilateral triangle 7" on each side.If you use steel watch your preheat temp so it doesnt stick.If the metal is dirty it shouldnt be a problem.I leveled the mold in sand for ease of setup and in case of spillage.I preweighed 10# of lead for the first one and marked the level w/a sharpie for duplicates .Also the eye for the rope will tend to want to float in the lead so keep some pliers handy or rig a better holder.Be safe,ventilation.yada,yada,yada.........
                                                                       


Mahi

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I'm inspired. I'm building mine today! I just need to get one of those rope stopper deals. Photo's to follow..........

CHEERS!


Mahi

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1 1/2 X 1/4 X 12 1/2 aluminum for the top piece. 1 1/2 X 1/4 X 3 1/2 for the back. I just need to run a bead of aluminum weld to attach the top to the back and it'll be done.

CHEERS!



SBD

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The anchor flotilla continues to grow....cool!


Pat R.

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Thank Mark, so what you are saying is I should preheat the mold before pouring in the lead this will be my first time working with lead. I was going to make the mold in two parts so I could take it apart after it cooled. Do you guys think a five pound anchor would do ??? or should I stick with a ten pound one. Hear are couple of pic of my anchor system for my LL Manta-Ray have not got to test it yet but soon.

Pat R


SBD

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Sometimes I drag my 10# so I don't think you want to go any lighter for river fishing.  Your mount looks nicely made.


KICKIN BASS

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PAT R. You got some skills with the fabrication!!!!  nicely done


Pat R.

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Thanks for the compliments  :smt006 and I will stick with a 10lb anchor.

Pat R


fishshim

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  • thanks for the pic PAL!
  • View Profile Mark Shimizu Design-Jewelry
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Pat, I made my mold in 2 parts then welded it together,it has to be water tight.By previous experience with jig heads and sinker molding I've found preheating improves the surface texture and the fill.The cast anchor should just fall out when cooled.


Pat R.

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Thank Mark my anchor probably wont look as good as yours but I have to give it a try.

Pat R


Mahi

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Thank Mark, so what you are saying is I should preheat the mold before pouring in the lead this will be my first time working with lead. I was going to make the mold in two parts so I could take it apart after it cooled. Do you guys think a five pound anchor would do ??? or should I stick with a ten pound one. Hear are couple of pic of my anchor system for my LL Manta-Ray have not got to test it yet but soon.

Pat R

Very nice job on the fab. Did you relocate the rear grab handle? You could market that piece as it looks very professional.

CHEERS!


Pat R.

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Mahi Mahi no relocation of the handle that's where LL puts it. The only problem with the anchor system is it will only fit on the LL Manta-Ray a custom fit.

Pat R


Mahi

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I just had my anchor Rhino lined at my local Rhino Liner shop. He said, "no charge" "I'll just spray it when I'm doin' the truck in the back". I'll post a photo tomorrow with it hooked up to the yak.

CHEERS!


Pat R.

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That sounds like a pretty good idea, do you think the Rhino coting will keep the anchor from bitting into the rocks ?? I was thinking about rubber coating. I dont know if plan lead would stick or bit in better.

Pat R