Elite 5 FF battery?

I’m having trouble with the amperage draw from my Lowrance Elite 5 FF.  I replaced my Elite 4x with this unit.  The 4 draws .25 amps and works great with the 12 volt 8 amp battery but the 5 draws 1.1 amps per hour so I only get about 4 hours and then it quits.  This has happened about 10-12 times, ever since I received this FF so it’s not a one time deal.  When I get home after a failure I check the battery voltage but it always seems to read 11.65 volts.  I had Lowrance check out the FF and they sent me a new one but it doesn’t change the time running.  I replaced the battery with a new similar sized one and charge it fully before use but I get the same result.  I can get a 12 volt 18 amp battery but it weighs 12 pounds…not what I want in the front of my boat.  I’m not sure what gives…battery or FF.  Does anyone out there run an Elite 5?  And if so what do you run for a battery.  Thanks.

Sam

Elite5 chirp with 5ah sla battery. Six hours approx. I think you should be getting more from the 8ah.

Sounds like your electrical connections might have a little corrosion causing the higher amp draw.  I have the 7 & have never been able to get it up to a 1amp draw.

i run 2 7ah batts

I use an Anker Astro Pro 20K mah power bank for my Elite 5 HDI. Seems to last 7-8 hours of normal use. Love the utility of using the power bank for charging my other electronics while out and about. And I never worry about how much juice is left with the percent capacity readily displayed on the unit. Now if it just manages to hold up to corrosion...

Sounds like your electrical connections might have a little corrosion causing the higher amp draw.  I have the 7 & have never been able to get it up to a 1amp draw.

No corrosion...new wire and properly crimped terminals.  I haven't measured the amp draw because I have no means of doing so.  I'm going by what Lowrance states in their owners manual.

Sounds like your electrical connections might have a little corrosion causing the higher amp draw.  I have the 7 & have never been able to get it up to a 1amp draw.

No corrosion...new wire and properly crimped terminals.  I haven't measured the amp draw because I have no means of doing so.  I'm going by what Lowrance states in their owners manual.

Just Googled amp draw and find that I do have a multimeter but didn't realize I could check amp draw with it....duhhh.  Checked the draw on gps function only and found it to be .85 amps.  I don't know what the sonar function adds to it but I'm thinking that the 1-1.1 amp draw is a reality. 

Sounds like your electrical connections might have a little corrosion causing the higher amp draw.  I have the 7 & have never been able to get it up to a 1amp draw.

No corrosion...new wire and properly crimped terminals.  I haven't measured the amp draw because I have no means of doing so.  I'm going by what Lowrance states in their owners manual.

Just Googled amp draw and find that I do have a multimeter but didn't realize I could check amp draw with it....duhhh.  Checked the draw on gps function only and found it to be .85 amps.  I don't know what the sonar function adds to it but I'm thinking that the 1-1.1 amp draw is a reality.

I've tested a number of these and most I could get one to pull was about 750mA with sonar running.

My FF is the Lowrance Elite 5 HDI Fishfinder + Chartplotter....if that makes any difference.

Few things to look at now that I am at a computer to type.

   The 1.1 amps is possible as this is the (listed) maximum running amperage of an Elite series unit; be it 4, 5 or 7" screen size.  I've done a fair amount of bench testing with a 4,5 &7" unit to test the amp draw.  Even with my Elite 7 HDI with GPS, FF, recording mode, full screen brightness (basically getting it to draw as much current as possible) I was only able to get ~750mA draw.  I'm sure this will vary slightly unit to unit, ambient temperature, power source, distance from power source, etc...  My test setups are using a DC power supply with ~3' of cable attached to a test strip & the manufacturer supplied Lowrance Power Cord attached to the test strip.  I use a digital volt meter in-line to test for current loads.  All units tested had a 50/200 HDI transducer plugged in & not in 'Demo' mode.

   Here are a few things to check, look at, inspect, etc based on helping others over the years troubleshoot issues ... with good success.

Battery - More often than not, a battery will have voltage but as soon as a load is pulled, the voltage will plummet below the ~10+ volts operational range.  Even though your battery is within the voltage range, it may not be producing the ability to output the necessary amperage required to maintain power for the FF.  You can also test voltage at the same time as amp draw but this will require 2 meters but is good to see what is happening to your battery voltage while the unit is running for a period of time.

Wiring/Connectors - Inspect for corrosion.  Same goes for all connectors.  If the wire has corrosion or event the beginnings of it, fit it.  This is especially true of this small gauge wire used to operate the unit.  Think of it like plumbing, a small amount of blockage in a small diameter pipe (in this case, corrosion) will result in a high amount of "backup".  Stuff can't flow thru it = increased resistance.  Did you extend the stock wiring harness?  If so, what wire size did you use to extend it with?  Though the wire they use on the stock power cable is something like 22ga, I use nothing less than 18ga to extend.  Take a close look at the splices (crimp, sollder, etc...).  Dielectric grease all connections, fitting,s plugs, etc & check often!

Testing - It is ok to test all this (if possible) with the transducer hooked up & running to get a true taste of what is going on with the unit.  This will require it to be done on the yak in your garage/front yard.

From the sounds of it, you replaced the battery.  Was the battery BRAND NEW & newly manufactured (not old stock but new off the shelf)?  Freshly charged?  Always look at the manufacture date code.  I am known to pull every battery off the shelf to get to the newest ones in the way back of the rack.  Most retailers will stock them with the newest in the back to sell thru the oldest first (like milk).

Check the connections as mentioned above & replace the connectors if in doubt.  It's easy & cheap to do.  You can even cut the connectors off & use just the power cord to the battery to test for amp draw.  This will allow you to isolate or remove the possibility that it is your wire extension; assuming you extended the power cord wiring.  Again, making new crimp connections is cheap & easy to do.  The fewer connections you have along with the shortest power lead run possible with larger ga extension wire will result in the most power making it to the unit; less restrictions along the way tends to result in lower amp draw of the unit.  In the end, the 1amp is still within "tolerance" for that unit & I expect my tested numbers are going to be a little lower than field numbers because I am running it off a regulated DC power supply which will give me a constant voltage that doesn't degrade like a battery will over time.  Final factor can be quality of battery/charger.  Poor quality batteries will drop voltage & have "inflated" aH capacities since most manufacturers use averages & some of those are subjective at best.  A good 8aH battery can last a LOT longer in a day than a cheep 13aH battery.  Quality can matter.

If anything else comes to mind, I'll be sure to post up.  Based on the number of people running this very same unit for the very same purpose, a 8-9aH battery of descent quality should get you a day on the water.  To extend battery life, use 'Standby' mode (press power button > standby) once anchored up/tied off to kelp or when you are on your spot.  Amazing how much power you can conserve throughout a day when you don't necessarily need to "see" the screen & it is instantly ready to go with the touch of a button again.

I was experiencing similar issues. It may have been coincidence, but I bought a new charger/tender and problem solved. Now I get 7-8hrs of power again with 8ah. http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Battery-Tender-021-0128-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=pd_sim_263_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SFDVTY7SY8KWDP1PPKZ
Although, in the meantime I also got an 18ah battery for multi-day trips and I haven't managed to drain that one yet... 

I was experiencing similar issues. It may have been coincidence, but I bought a new charger/tender and problem solved. Now I get 7-8hrs of power again with 8ah. http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Battery-Tender-021-0128-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=pd_sim_263_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SFDVTY7SY8KWDP1PPKZ
Although, in the meantime I also got an 18ah battery for multi-day trips and I haven't managed to drain that one yet...

Is that with both units running ....  Pat is a PIMP & runs 2 Lowrance units at a time 

Haha... the 18ah is for two-fishfinder days or if I go single fishfinder & livewell.
When I say 7-8hrs with the 8ah battery, that is just one fishfinder (Elite 5).

Haha... the 18ah is for two-fishfinder days or if I go single fishfinder & livewell.
When I say 7-8hrs with the 8ah battery, that is just one fishfinder (Elite 5).

Still a PIMP! 

Few things to look at now that I am at a computer to type.

   The 1.1 amps is possible as this is the (listed) maximum running amperage of an Elite series unit; be it 4, 5 or 7" screen size.  I've done a fair amount of bench testing with a 4,5 &7" unit to test the amp draw.  Even with my Elite 7 HDI with GPS, FF, recording mode, full screen brightness (basically getting it to draw as much current as possible) I was only able to get ~750mA draw.  I'm sure this will vary slightly unit to unit, ambient temperature, power source, distance from power source, etc...  My test setups are using a DC power supply with ~3' of cable attached to a test strip & the manufacturer supplied Lowrance Power Cord attached to the test strip.  I use a digital volt meter in-line to test for current loads.  All units tested had a 50/200 HDI transducer plugged in & not in 'Demo' mode.

   Here are a few things to check, look at, inspect, etc based on helping others over the years troubleshoot issues ... with good success.

Battery - More often than not, a battery will have voltage but as soon as a load is pulled, the voltage will plummet below the ~10+ volts operational range.  Even though your battery is within the voltage range, it may not be producing the ability to output the necessary amperage required to maintain power for the FF.  You can also test voltage at the same time as amp draw but this will require 2 meters but is good to see what is happening to your battery voltage while the unit is running for a period of time.

Wiring/Connectors - Inspect for corrosion.  Same goes for all connectors.  If the wire has corrosion or event the beginnings of it, fit it.  This is especially true of this small gauge wire used to operate the unit.  Think of it like plumbing, a small amount of blockage in a small diameter pipe (in this case, corrosion) will result in a high amount of "backup".  Stuff can't flow thru it = increased resistance.  Did you extend the stock wiring harness?  If so, what wire size did you use to extend it with?  Though the wire they use on the stock power cable is something like 22ga, I use nothing less than 18ga to extend.  Take a close look at the splices (crimp, sollder, etc...).  Dielectric grease all connections, fitting,s plugs, etc & check often!

Testing - It is ok to test all this (if possible) with the transducer hooked up & running to get a true taste of what is going on with the unit.  This will require it to be done on the yak in your garage/front yard.

From the sounds of it, you replaced the battery.  Was the battery BRAND NEW & newly manufactured (not old stock but new off the shelf)?  Freshly charged?  Always look at the manufacture date code.  I am known to pull every battery off the shelf to get to the newest ones in the way back of the rack.  Most retailers will stock them with the newest in the back to sell thru the oldest first (like milk).

Check the connections as mentioned above & replace the connectors if in doubt.  It's easy & cheap to do.  You can even cut the connectors off & use just the power cord to the battery to test for amp draw.  This will allow you to isolate or remove the possibility that it is your wire extension; assuming you extended the power cord wiring.  Again, making new crimp connections is cheap & easy to do.  The fewer connections you have along with the shortest power lead run possible with larger ga extension wire will result in the most power making it to the unit; less restrictions along the way tends to result in lower amp draw of the unit.  In the end, the 1amp is still within "tolerance" for that unit & I expect my tested numbers are going to be a little lower than field numbers because I am running it off a regulated DC power supply which will give me a constant voltage that doesn't degrade like a battery will over time.  Final factor can be quality of battery/charger.  Poor quality batteries will drop voltage & have "inflated" aH capacities since most manufacturers use averages & some of those are subjective at best.  A good 8aH battery can last a LOT longer in a day than a cheep 13aH battery.  Quality can matter.

If anything else comes to mind, I'll be sure to post up.  Based on the number of people running this very same unit for the very same purpose, a 8-9aH battery of descent quality should get you a day on the water.  To extend battery life, use 'Standby' mode (press power button > standby) once anchored up/tied off to kelp or when you are on your spot.  Amazing how much power you can conserve throughout a day when you don't necessarily need to "see" the screen & it is instantly ready to go with the touch of a button again.

I've heard that you can't run a transducer out of the water/or without the boat sitting in water(I shoot thru the hull).  Maybe a dumb question but?  As  to the production date on the battery the only stamped markings are 1451L on top.  I purchased the battery from Amazon a month ago and have already received credit back for it.  The battery is marked UB 1280 l  on the side.  I'm charging the hell out of it now for one more test(I have a Cabelas non float charger that I can leave on the battery for a day or so but no longer).  After that I plan on taking 2 batteries with me on my next fishing adventure. Thanks for the imput fellow Norcals.