Downrigger questions for the pros

DG - I've had good luck using Double Deep Six, and using 2-3 lb lead balls on sinker releases.

I've made the personal decision not to (intentionally) drop any more lead on the ocean floor, so that leaves me with mooching, downrigger trolling, and DD6 trolling. From my experience, the DD6 works pretty decently down to about 30-40 feet. Below that, I'm just guessing where my bait might be.

I still plan to keep a DD6 on board for when the fish are shallow (a surprising big percent of the time, actually). When the fish move deep, I want to be able to stick a bait in their face with some precision. That's why I'm adding the downrigger to my toolbox.

That all made sense to me.  I have several variations of the deep six's.   I don't want to drop weights either.  Now I will just have to weed through all the suggestions and make a DR that's not to bulky or heavy. 

I have an odd take on a lot of things...my friends tell me every day. 

I'd say your "odd take" is the best info on this topic that I've seen anywhere. You've clearly thought things thru and worked out a lot of kayak-specific bugs in the process. I appreciate that you're willing to share your valuable insights here.

I have an odd take on a lot of things...my friends tell me every day. 

I'd say your "odd take" is the best info on this topic that I've seen anywhere. You've clearly thought things thru and worked out a lot of kayak-specific bugs in the process. I appreciate that you're willing to share your valuable insights here.

Thanks!  Tons of great info here. A lot of activity on this board. I'm always envious!!!

What were you doing when that rod broke?

Trying to trip the deep six release to reel it in.

Weird. Did you "high stick" it?

I'll make sure to be careful with my Classic Glass when I pull my line from the DR release...

With barbless hooks, I try to REALLy tire the fish out with a loose drag before trying to net it. When the fish rolls over on it's side, it's ready to be netted without a fuss.

I'd be concerned that this gives the sea lions a better chance to snatch the salmon. And, I don't understand why barbless would be a major factor in this respect.

With barbless hooks, I try to REALLy tire the fish out with a loose drag before trying to net it. When the fish rolls over on it's side, it's ready to be netted without a fuss.

I'd be concerned that this gives the sea lions a better chance to snatch the salmon. And, I don't understand why barbless would be a major factor in this respect.

+1 What AlexB said. Because if the salmon is not tired out when you try to net it, it may jump and spit the barbless hook.

Thanks!  Tons of great info here. A lot of activity on this board. I'm always envious!!!

Yes, but I'm envious of the incredible salmon fishing opportunities that you have...

With barbless hooks, I try to REALLy tire the fish out with a loose drag before trying to net it. When the fish rolls over on it's side, it's ready to be netted without a fuss.

I'd be concerned that this gives the sea lions a better chance to snatch the salmon. And, I don't understand why barbless would be a major factor in this respect.

I guess it does give the sea lions better odds, but I think it's worth it.

Here's my take on how barbless plays into the picture:

- When you pull hard on a hook in a fish's jaw, the hook loosens up (i.e. the hook hole gets stretched out). This isn't that big of a problem with barbed hooks, but a barbless hook will literally just fall out of the fish's face. Keeping the drag loose prevents you from pulling hard enough to have this problem.

- Keeping the drag loose lets the fish take LONG, tiring runs rather than short runs that get stopped by too much tension (usually pissing the salmon off and making it jump/thrash). I like this because it lets me work the fish far from the boat with lots of stretchy mono out to cushion any sudden movements. It also helps keep the fish calm, and keep it under water.

- If the fish is VERY tired by the time it gets close to the boat, it won't flip out.

Check out this link for a more thorough answer. (The "Mistakes" section, in particular).

http://www.protroll.com/books/?id=2&p_id=7

Dick Pool knows more about salmon fishing than you or I probably ever will.

Dang Jerry! Looks like you've put a lot of thought into it there...

I use the smallest tekota with line counter loaded with 50# spectra for dive plane and sinker release. It is matched with a 7' Lamiglas triflex rod.

I use a saltist  with line counter with 25# flourocarbon main line for downrigger and mooching. It is matched with a Calstar 270-7.

I use a 50-60# fluoro leader for bait, hoochies and brad cut plugs. 25-30# fluoro for apex and spoons.

I use a custom built downrigger with 80# spectra, snubber 6 pound ball ocean and 40# spectra, no snubber 2.5# ball on freshwater.

Good stuff, GB2.

I'd like to add a line counter reel to my toolbox, but the options are REALLY limited for people who fish lefty. I think Okuma makes one, but don't know if any others.

Good stuff, GB2.

I'd like to add a line counter reel to my toolbox, but the options are REALLY limited for people who fish lefty. I think Okuma makes some, but don't know if any others.

Daiwa makes one:
http://www.daiwa.com/reel/detail.aspx?id=644
http://www.daiwa.com/reel/detail.aspx?id=643

Good stuff, GB2.

I'd like to add a line counter reel to my toolbox, but the options are REALLY limited for people who fish lefty. I think Okuma makes some, but don't know if any others.

Daiwa makes one:
http://www.daiwa.com/reel/detail.aspx?id=644
http://www.daiwa.com/reel/detail.aspx?id=643

Why'd you have to show me that?!? Now I want one!!!

Just kidding. That thing does look pretty sweet....

Good stuff, GB2.

I'd like to add a line counter reel to my toolbox, but the options are REALLY limited for people who fish lefty. I think Okuma makes one, but don't know if any others.

I'm pretty sure they have attachable line counters (maybe Berkeley makes it.) I've never used one so I can't comment on how well they perform. Isn't it kind of a moot point when you have a like counter on the downrigger?

Would you still use a deep six setup even though a DR is in your arsenal?

Good stuff, GB2.

I'd like to add a line counter reel to my toolbox, but the options are REALLY limited for people who fish lefty. I think Okuma makes one, but don't know if any others.

I'm pretty sure they have attachable line counters (maybe Berkeley makes it.) I've never used one so I can't comment on how well they perform. Isn't it kind of a moot point when you have a like counter on the downrigger?

Would you still use a deep six setup even though a DR is in your arsenal?

With the downrigger, the line counter wouldn't be needed. It wouldn't actually read the right depth anyway, because of the "drop back" (line between downrigger line release and bait). I guess you can zero the line counter after dropping back, but whatever...

I'd be more interested in the line counter for mooching and/or trolling with the Double Deep 6. For example, out at Moss Landing last year there was a good mooch bite 100 feet down in over 400 feet of water. Without the line counter, stripping 100 1-foot pulls was getting old quick... If it were shallower, I might just drop to the bottom and count cranks back up, but in 400 feet of water that ain't happening.

I'll definitely still use the DD6 for shallow trolling (maybe down to 25 feet?). The DD6 is a really great tool. Easy to use, easy to pull in, drop down, etc. I really have no complaints about them, they just have their limitations.