Downrigger questions for the pros

Imposter - I'll try to snap some pics of my downrigger setup later today. I basically cut the bottom off one milk crate, secured it on top of another milk crate as a lid, then installed the downrigger onto that lid using some Starboard scraps as backing (free scraps, thanks Tap Plastics!).

This whole contraption fits nicely in the tank well of my Hobie, and gets secured down at all 4 corners using 3/4" webbing accessory straps.

Pics to come...

I got my downrigger set up after salmon season had already ended this year. I can't speak from personal experience on this one, but I know that people do troll for salmon below 100 feet. For example, Nangusdog from NWKA says he fishes 100-120 feet for winter blackmouth (chinook) with a Scotty Depthmaster. They do tend to troll a little slower up in the Puget sound, but this just shows what's possible.


http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=12067.0

In reality, most of my trolling will be in the 20-75 foot range. The salmon tend to hang out in water less than 100 feet along the Marin coast, so that's the MAX I might ever want to go in that area. Down at Moss Landing or Monterey I might try deeper, but I don't make it down there very often.

As for the drag, I'm not terribly worried about it. I have no problem dragging a 3-lb ball around for 8 hours. The only thing that stops me is wetsuit chaffing, but that'll be a thing of the past once I buy a drysuit. Maybe I'll see this differently once I've tried it...

Imposter - I'll try to snap some pics of my downrigger setup later today. I basically cut the bottom off one milk crate, secured it on top of another milk crate as a lid, then installed the downrigger onto that lid using some Starboard scraps as backing (free scraps, thanks Tap Plastics!).

This whole contraption fits nicely in the tank well of my Hobie, and gets secured down at all 4 corners using 3/4" webbing accessory straps.

Pics to come...

I'm excited to see pics. Sounds a little like what I was planning on doing. I have a yakattack blackpak that I was going to put hinges on and a secure locking mechanism for the lid. I was wanting to attach a downrigger to that.

I got my downrigger set up after salmon season had already ended this year. I can't speak from personal experience on this one, but I know that people do troll for salmon below 100 feet. For example, Nangusdog from NWKA says he fishes 100-120 feet for winter blackmouth (chinook) with a Scotty Depthmaster. They do tend to troll a little slower up in the Puget sound, but this just shows what's possible.


http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=12067.0

In reality, most of my trolling will be in the 20-75 foot range. The salmon tend to hang out in water less than 100 feet along the Marin coast, so that's the MAX I might ever want to go in that area. Down at Moss Landing or Monterey I might try deeper, but I don't make it down there very often.

As for the drag, I'm not terribly worried about it. I have no problem dragging a 3-lb ball around for 8 hours. The only thing that stops me is wetsuit chaffing, but that'll be a thing of the past once I buy a drysuit. Maybe I'll see this differently once I've tried it...

What type of terminal gear do you use?  A flasher?  Anything with much drag?  I use an 8 lbs ball and it's not enough.  I plan on stepping up to a 10lbs ball.  I started with a 6lbs ball and it worked, but line angle was always 30deg or more from perpendicular.  That starts affecting depth control...the whole reason I use a downrigger.  My typical troll set up is an 11 inch flasher to a green label herring in typically 30ft down in the water.

My terminal gear is usually a small triangle/spinning style flasher and a bait (usually a 'chovy or green label herring in a bait holder head of some sort ) behind a sinker release or a Double Deep 6. Sometimes I'll use a Sling Blade or a small Hot Spot flasher (both around 8" I believe). I have been avoiding the big Hot Spot flashers because I hear they put up a lot of resistance. I know they are very popular, though...

I stick with gear that doesn't put up much drag, and  wouldn't mind simplifying down to straight bait on the rare occasion when I have to fish deeper than 75 feet or so.

Is your downrigger spooled with braid, or still using wire? I hear the braid can seriously reduce blowback.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't 30-45 degrees of blowback pretty standard for downriggers?

I don't mind a little mental math to figure out how deep to deploy gear. With a 30 degree line angle, just knock about 15% off what that DR's line counter is reading. If you're at 45 degrees line angle, knock off about 30% of the line counter's reading.

Many people seem to think they can judge the depth of their offering by seeing the DR ball on their sonar, but this doesn't take blowback into account. If you let out 100 feet of line straight down, your sonar will read it as being 100 feet deep no matter what angle it dangles (as long as it's within the cone of your sonar). The sonar is just measuring the time it takes a ping to hit something and return to the sensor. It has no idea what angle the sound came from...

As soon as I hook a fish I hit the remote control button on my vest and the ball comes up automatically.

As long as my blowback is less than 45 degrees, I'm fine with it. I don't mind doing the math. If you can get a decent estimate of your blowback angle, you can get a precise read of your depth. (I'm an engineer; math doesn't really scare me.)

Here are a few crappy phone pics of my crate/DR mount. Didn't have a chance to pull my kayak down and mount it up for pics. Maybe this weekend.

That looks nice man! Have you used it yet? It's very similar to what I was thinking of doing to my BlackPak. I only had one worry, With the DR being so high and probably using a 6-8# weight, that it would drastically change my center of gravity.

You have a hobie right? Which model?

Dave - I haven't used it yet, but I've set it up in the kayak (Hobie Outback) for a "dry run". With the arm of the DR sticking straight out the port side, the DR wire dangles just a few inches off the side of the yak. I doubt that I will even be able notice the weight of the DR ball in terms of kayak stability. Drag will be a whole other factor. Since it's behind the kayak's center of gravity and hangs just inches from the rail, I don't think it will affect tracking all that much either.

Whatever DR setup you use, I'd strongly suggest getting rid of the wire and using braid instead. In an emergency, you want to be able to immediately cut loose from the weight. As a side benefit, you'll have less drag with braid. Btw, I use 30# PowerPro with a 4 pound ball, and that seems to work well.

Whatever DR setup you use, I'd strongly suggest getting rid of the wire and using braid instead. In an emergency, you want to be able to immediately cut loose from the weight. As a side benefit, you'll have less drag with braid. Btw, I use 30# PowerPro with a 4 pound ball, and that seems to work well.

Great point. I already picked up some 80-lb PowerPro, just haven't spooled it up yet.

As soon as I hook a fish I hit the remote control button on my vest and the ball comes up automatically.

We cant all be as cool as you Mike! 

Whatever DR setup you use, I'd strongly suggest getting rid of the wire and using braid instead. In an emergency, you want to be able to immediately cut loose from the weight. As a side benefit, you'll have less drag with braid. Btw, I use 30# PowerPro with a 4 pound ball, and that seems to work well.

Great point. I already picked up some 80-lb PowerPro, just haven't spooled it up yet.

I'd go thicker if you can.  But it's a vast improvement over the steel cable.

Oh and I love the crate mounted DR Alex!    On my Outback I do the same thing basically.  The DR points off to the right, and I have a rod holder on the left side, that points up and over to the right crossing over the kayak.  When the line releases I can feel the whole rod spring up and I immediately accelerate to take up the slack, then reach back for the rod to fight the fish.  This year, i'm going to try stacking two lines on my DR, like Adam and Rob showed how to do at BSS!