Humbled by god's creation," Bean Hallow" 10/20/06

The incredible thing about the hole is it is in the seam and hard to find. According to a letter addressed to the dealers this has been an on going  problem for sometime.  I have put this Kayak on stationary horse's and filled it up. No leakage. But in the water under stress is when the problem occurs. The problem seems to be inherent to the front hole where the front drive goes.

One additional thing to test-out in the swamped kayak practice is how well duct-tape works in sea water. For example, your rock fishing w/o fish finder and aren't aware of a rock outcropping just below the surface and you hit it hard enough to dent the plastic (you and your buddies only see a dent). What would be the safe thing to do? The options are paddle to the closest landing beach to inspect the damage or perhaps better yet put a layer of duct-tape on before making your dash for the landing. The kayak movement w/o precautionary steps is often a risky decision is what this report warns to newbies and experienced kayak fisherman. No human senses can detect the force of water displacement. We see the result only a little later upon inspection of the hull.
I would be curious to see if thick CA glue (with kicker) would fill a hole in plastic SOT's. Those come in very small containers so adding it to the first aid kit would be great if it works. 5-minute epoxy would also be a good test. I'll bring the above and some wet sand paper to the swamped-kayak session.
Anyone have an old plastic SOT to sacrifice for testing?
I'm glad the outcome was so fortunate. This same thing has happened before with mix-ups on "display" models with damage that only half the salesman know about.
Craig

I don't know if the regular grey, cloth-backed duck tape would be very adherent.  In cold temperature and moisture I think the rubber adhesive becomes less tacky.  But I cold see, if you have a crack or smaller hole, that the aluminum foil duct tape might work.  I find that it is very adherent, and the metal foil is quite strong, certainly would be water proof.  I'll try it on when the kayak is wet and cold and see how well it sticks.

I'm pretty sure fast setting epoxy won't work.  I't doesn't even bond well to polyethylene under clean, dry conditions.

I used duct taped to secure my transducer inside my hull.  If wet it would not stick, when applied dry and exposed to minimal moisture it lasted roughly 3-5 hours.  I doubt it is effective at all in repairing hull damage in a poly kayak. 

Are you referring to the cloth back, grey duct tape or the shiny, aluminum foil duct tape?

Cloth

Thanks for the honest report. Once on the water, I don't think any "Experts" would have handled the situation any better,

You were on the buddy system, you had the proper equipment, and you didn't let panic set in.

Good job guys,  looking forward to meeting and fishing with you in the future

Craigh

hear, hear, Craig.  I couldn't agree more!

Allen

Great Job Frankfish,

I know it must have been hard to actually realize that you, where in a situation that you needed to call for help.

I Comend you for quick thinking on kicking the situation high up the flag pole, and putting aside the thought and ego of "we/I can handle this"

It is obviously no joke out there, and things can and will go south quick,

I agree with Marmite that we are bit  "glib" about safety and haven't put as much emphasis as we should, I think your honest account of this incident has humbled us all.

Not to many can claim stress under fire, and many don't know how the chips will fall when put to the test.

Look forward to fishing with ya, and thank you for a lesson well learned for us all...

The Modo I live by that works for me when the chips are down...

     Adapt, Improvise and Overcome......... ....Danglin

I think you should consider writing a letter to Hobie, insisting that they test their boats in a pool with 200 pounds in the cockpit before they ship them out. A leaky kayak is a death trap, and there is no excuse for them to be shipping defective boats.

Frank..

Thanks for your report.  Having been a waterman since I was a kid, the respect for the water is no joke.  If had some harrowing experiences windsurfing in the SF Bay and at Scotts Creek.  Having the right equipment and gear makes all the difference.  The biggest lesson I've learned is to always use the Buddy System.  When your equipment is performing correctly on the water, it seems easy and safe.  But when situations arise that are not expected, in a brief instance, it's now life threatening.  The fact that our kayaks can have slow leaks and sink us is scary.(especially when your a mile off shore)  The reality of water sports is that you just don't walk away if you have a major malfunction.  WE must all be prepared for the worst and glad your cool approach to the situation helped make for a positive outcome.

John

To think that this would not have happened with a bit of foam in the kayak just dumbfounds me.

J

Update,
I have swapped my Outfitter for the Revolution and since attending the self rescue demo at Stevens Creek Reservoir I have modified my new revolution. I have inserted foam into the lining of my front hatch as suggested also now do not float my Kayak without first inflating my dry bags then placing them in the front hole then into the bow.
The front hatch on the Revolution still leaves allot to be desired. When swamped the bungee cord attachments for the hatch are not sufficient to keep the hatch from opening enough to let in water. Unlike other Kayaks with front hatches that also have straps, which cinch down to create a more waterproof fit when submerged.Making self rescue harder in the Revolution the way Mfr.has set up these boats.
What I did was formed a piece of foam that fits the shape of the hatch then glued it in giving the forward hatch more of a seal however, the bungee system I am sure is still insufficient. One more step I will be attempting is a belt system like the more conventional Kayaks which I hope will remedy this situation with the forward hatch letting water in when swamped and self rescuing.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.

My mind set has also changed to Kayak er first fisherman second. I will be shopping for a more conventional ocean Kayak then the Hobie. Although I really like the Mirage system I definitely fill that they are more suited for calmer waters.

Sounds like you would definitely need a very tight strap solution if you are putting an inflatable dry bag in the front hold.  Otherwise, if the bag is not secured in some way, it might float under the hatch and its bouyancy may press up against the hatch, further compromising the seal.  I'm sure I would have the same problem with the "tupperware" hatch on my Tarpon 140 if I used dray bags in the forward compartment.

To think that this would not have happened with a bit of foam in the kayak just dumbfounds me.

John,

I specifically invite you, with your kayak "with a bit of foam" to our next saltwater swamping session. My gut feel is that you will be in for an unpleasant surprise. And you'll go from "a bit of foam" to wanting about 5 cubic feet, or 10 pounds worth.


Regards,
Scott

Marmite,
Your probably right about the the dry bag and like some folks who think that foam is the answer I think that  the cleo effect is better than a submerged front hatch or bow.. Having the experience of being swamped in un lake like conditions has brought new respect for gear that will keep my bow above water. (The foam itself was placed there because of a suggestion that was made.) . Also it is there for the seal, not buoyancy which with straps may resolve the leakage problem when the hatch is submerged while trying the "T" rescue. This is a problem which again is inherent to the type of hatch Hobie choose for this particular Kayak (the Revolution).
By the way nice fish and pictures of your day at Mendo. Tell me you did not stop at Ranch 99 on the way home!!!