Braided Line Problems

I have 7 Tekota 300LC reels and they are all loaded with 30lb. Power Pro braid, never had a problem with any slipping or breaking from the fluorocarbon leaders to the braid.  As a matter of fact it has been so long since I changed a leader I could not even tell you what knot I used!  I use the Tekotas for trolling for trout with light leaders (6 to 8 lb. Fluoro) to 20 lb. Fluoro leaders for Stripers and Salmon off shore and in the Delta. 

I've NEVER lost a lure with braid and a rapala knot. I'm terrible with knot names, but that's what i was taught waay back, and it has never let me down

I seem to recall a tip in some video I was watching about using your fingernails to kind of strip off some outer protective layer on some higher quality braids before tying your knots...  But I've never done it, so not sure if that will help or knot.   

Just remembered that I bought a used reel, spooled with 30+# braid (Powerpro?),that had been through a couple NCKA hands. Took it to GS7. It was snapping right and left. WTF!. Maybe it wasn't rinsed properly or some such and rot set in. Have'nt had any other issues with Powerpro or Spiderwire since

+1 on PP slick 8 especially for casting. I use a Palomar for terminal connection and a double uni (6/12 turn) for braid to mono.

I used the PowerPro regular most of my first season , and loved it ,got towed just about by one the boat leaving the harbor with 65 lb braid when he caught my line by buzzing me as I trolled a hammer(dickhead dude too)....by the time I got my pole out of the holder he had turned around to see me fighting him with my rod and came back as I was getting ready to cut free and save my lamiglas,the line dropped off whatever he had caught it on and I could find no damage as I reeled it in and reset...it's that strong...unreal

but I am going lighter on my lb of braid for season II and also have switched to PowerPro Super Slick 8 and love the stuff

I recently used really nice maxima ultra green in 12 lb for perch and 25 and 30 lb for salmon and sure LIKED using regular line again  ...it's feels right,and is easy to tie and clip and untangle...I may be done with braid soon

I use power pro 65lb braid exclusively on the delta. Now m also not using a leader so I would not be running into the issue you are having. But have you thought about using Flourocarbon? I got the below from a website. I have not personally tried it so I can't give you any input.

Benefits of Fluorocarbon Line
Invisibility Under Water  - Light goes through fluorocarbon fishing line the same way it goes through water since the refractive index is the same for both. Fish are often line shy, especially in clear water, and invisible line helps overcome this problem. In clear water you are more likely to get bites if you are using fluorocarbon line. You can even get fluorocarbon swivels that are invisible.

Density - Fluorocarbon line sinks in water so it helps get your bait down more quickly. That is positive when using a bottom bumping lure like a jig or worm, and when fishing a crankbait.

Lack of Stretch - Most monofilament lines stretch but fluorocarbon does not stretch much. So, on long casts it makes your hook set more effective. It also helps with your “feel” of the cover when fishing jigs and plastic worms, and you can feel a bite better.

Stiffness - For fly fishing, a stiff leader helps keep your leader straight.

Abrasion Resistance - Fluorocarbon lines are more abrasion resistant, meaning you can rub them on rocks or wood cover without making them as much weaker as you would with traditional monofilament line.

Problems With Fluorocarbon Lines

Stiffness - Many fluorocarbon lines are stiff and keep the shape of the spool, especially when cold. This can cause casting problems, especially on spinning reels. The lighter test versions show these problems less than heavier test lines but can still be a problem.

Brittleness - Some fishermen report that these lines are also are brittle and break easily. Brands vary greatly and some are much better than others. The best way to see if they work for you is to try several brands and test them under the conditions you fish.

Density - Dense line that sinks is not good for topwater baits since it will pull the bait down and make it harder to fish. Some fishermen get past this problem by spooling the reel with braid, which floats, and then tying a fluorocarbon leader between it and the lure. Since I don’t like extra knots between me and the fish I don’t do this.

Lack of Stretch - When making short casts with spinnerbaits and some other baits the lack of stretch can cause you to break the line on the hookset or tear the hook out of the fish’s mouth. I had to adjust my hookset and lessen the drag on my reels when fishing jigs and worms because I broke 12 pound test line, which never happened with traditional monofilament. I still get a good hookset since the line does not stretch.

Invisibility - Fluorocarbon disappears under water but is hard to see above the water, too. This makes it harder to watch your line to detect strikes and also sometimes makes you lose track of exactly where your line is.

Knot Strength - Fluorocarbon line is very slippery and knots can come loose. I tied an improved clinch knot with seven twists to make sure it holds. I leave a longer tag end, about 1/4 inch, to help. Some people go so far as to put a drop of super glue on the knot to make sure it does not slip.

Does Fluorocarbon Line Make A Different?

When fluorocarbon lines first came out several years ago, I kept spools of 12 and 14 pound test Vanish fluorocarbon line in my tackle box but used it only for leaders on Carolina rigs. The stiffness does not create a problem in that use and I have not had any problems with it being brittle, even after carrying spools for several years. That problem showed up later.

One experience convinced me using this invisible line makes a difference. During a tournament in a clear water lake, my partner and I were fishing a point with Carolina rigs. When I caught five or six bass and he did not get a bite, I gave him some of the worms I was using. The pattern continued, I caught several more and he did not get bit.

After looking at his rig I noticed he was using a blue tinted line. I gave him the spool of Vanish and told him to change his leader. After making this change, he started catching more fish than me and soon filled his limit, too. Coincidence, or did the line make a difference?

I am convinced it was the line. I now spool all my reels with newer, improved fluorocarbon lines except a couple for topwater lures which I use traditional monofilament, a couple for fishing lures in thick vegetation that I spool with braid, and a couple for spinnerbaits where I want a little more stretch. When fishing a jig head worm, jig and pig or crankbait I use fluorocarbon.

One more thing buy some boomerang snips. Cheap built in retractor and will clean cut braid all day long no frays

Maybe the braid is an old stock?

Braid can slip when tied directly to the lure, swivel, etc.. Tie a double or triple palomar to prevent this. I have been using power pro for years and this trick was explained by a BASS pro at a university class I attended in the late 90's. Works great!!!

I think shallow water and deepwater is a little different on the braid.deepwater jigging vs shallow water flipping.rockfishing I always use a leader.flipping for bass or topwater I tie the braid straight on to the lure. Havnt had any issues yet

Already a lot of great advice but I'll add my go to rig as well:

My rockfish/kelp setup:

50 lbs. power pro (overkill? yes. Has it ever been too much? never.) tied to swivel with a palomar knot (has never, ever failed me). The palomar is one of the recommended knots for power pro. From swivel, a 5' - 10' leader of 25# mono to your lure, swimbait/leadhead of choice, tied with whatever quality knot you prefer. The 25# mono gives you stretch, good abrasion resistance, but can be snapped off if you get hopelessly hung up. You wont break off the 50# braid.

For other rigs I still start with the 50# power pro and then rig from there. Always a palomar between the braid and the terminal tackle for me. As I said, I have never had one fail at that connection.

The main problem with flouro is that it takes forever to decompose. Because of its UV resistant properties. Bad for the environment, especially in small lakes. So try not to fill your entire spool w/fluoro...
Btw here is the best article about fluoro that I've ever read btw: http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html

It might be the brand.I use 50# power pro and never had any problems.I mostly use mono but the few times that I use braid its always been power pro

I 2nd this also. No probs here using power pro.

Quote from Clayman
" For line-to-line knots, I typically use a blood knot to attach a monofilament leader to the braid.  Never had any issues.  For attaching terminal tackle directly to braid, a double clinch knot has always served me well."
+1 on both those knots.  I just spooled up some more #50 suffix with the gore fibers.  Stuff from two years ago seems to hold up well so far,so just got some more.