Trailer or Dual Hullavators?

Well after my last trip I am debating on which way to go to ease loading the kayaks and gear.  I am driving a Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab with the 5 ft bed.  I am using 58" Thule racks on the camper shell.  I have a Hobie Adventure and the Wife has an Outfitter (aka the beast).  My wife does not have the upper body strength to really help me load the kayaks.  Also putting the straps on top roof of the truck can be a PITA.

I can load my adventure on the roof rack or J rack ok, but it takes some effort to lift it overhead.  I am really thinking of the Hullavator to get it up there.  I will likely be getting the wife a revo soon, so am considering a second hullavator.  Those who have dual hullavators, do you need the 65" cross bars, or will they fit side by side on the 58" bars?

Due to the width of the outfitter (34") I may end up have to go with the wider racks.  Its width shows as the maximum for the hullavator, but it does exceed the 75 lb max rating.  It is probably pushing 90+  .  My adventure is 27.5", and about 70-75 lbs.

I am also considering a trailer for transport and for storage of the kayak gear and camping gear.  My trucks 5' bed does fill up quick with two girls 
 
I am also considering converting a utility trailer with short raised sides into a kayak trailer.  I like the idea of lower loading racks, storing the kayaks upside down on the cross bars, and having the trailer for the gear.  I could potentially just roll the trailer in the garage and have it ready to go on trips.  I looked through the old posts and really like Danglin's trailer style   My question is I go this route is what size utility trailer to start with and do you need to lengthen the tongue (my kayak is 16' long).  I appreciate any tips from those who have done it.

I think in the end both options would end up costing about the same.  1060 for both the hullavators, and possibly 89 for new cross bars.  Or a utility trailer for 500-1000, and the modifications to it.  Help!  Which is the better transport option for trips?

Thanks,
Matt

Trailer is way better but there are two major considerations....can you drive 55ish and if you cross lots of bridges you will pay more for the extra axle. Second is parking. Some places are limited on parking so you may be challenged to find a spot for a truck and trailer. Otherwise trailers rock.

I also have a double cab 4x4 Tacoma and I use a 4'x6' post WWll 1/4 ton Bantam trailer.  On camping trips I easily fill up the trailer and the truck's bed with fishing and camping gear.  The great thing about the Bantam trailer is that it will go where ever the 4x4 truck can get into.  I use two 4" ABS pipes to carry my Hobie Pro Angler on (I recently took the 6 Yakima Mako saddles off). 

Good thread. My wife and I are going thru the same decision. She is 5' 2" and we are both over 50 so.... car topping is getting to be a PITA. I am going trailer cause I like the idea of a low lift and also the idea of having it "go" ready.  I also worry about parking and turning around,etc... so will keep the racks on the car for backup.
The manufactured ones are way too steep for my taste and have crappy storage so I am building my own. I will either use a used lightweight boat trailer or a harbor freight frame rated for 1720 lbs.  I will post what I end up with. It will be a fun build. Going for light enough to be pulled by a small car and all my gear (camping stuff included) stored out of the weather and lockable.  Under 1,000 pounds with all the boats and gear.
Not getting any younger and dreaming of a bigger yak leaves me little choice.  I do like those hullavators though but, don't have the rig to fit them on.

The pics below show the trailer I currently have. Fortunately I am down to only a Revo and an Adventure. I can store both kayaks fully rigged or I can put up the bars and store them on top of that and use the bottom for storage.
The drawer holds things like rods and paddles..whatever.
I have the front and rear gates on the trailer in the down position for ease of loading an unloading the kayaks, but I can turn them into the up position if I need to store gear inside.
This is a quick vid that shows you how difficult is is to load a kayak using a trailer.



This vid is a bit longer but it does show how I secure the kayak.

Dang Tote, that is a nice setup you built. Looks like a fairly light trailer?
I like the convertibility of multiple set-ups.  I have seen those duel gate trailers (Home Depot maybe?)but, can't seem to find them anymore, at least not up here.

Would be nice to save the arms for paddling.  Thanks, nice video.

Chris

Trailer is way better but there are two major considerations....can you drive 55ish and if you cross lots of bridges you will pay more for the extra axle. Second is parking. Some places are limited on parking so you may be challenged to find a spot for a truck and trailer. Otherwise trailers rock.

+1 i have yakima bars and a trailer,my beast is a pa14 im not as strong as some of these guys,so i got a trailer.if i have to top it then i top it otherwise i pull the tralier,i do 60ish 55 is to slow for me

Matt, I have dual Hullavators on my Tacoma. I had to go to the longer load bars, in order for the Hullavators not to bang against the doors or mirrors while in the down position. The price scares off many, but they do come with lifetime warranties which I had to use once. Maximum width of the cradle is about 38 inches.

Howard

My OK T13 is difficult for me to top load on my high profile SUV, so I put together a small Harbor Freight trailer to load yaks and store gear. Towing has worked well for me.

My OK T13 is difficult for me to top load on my high profile SUV, so I put together a small Harbor Freight trailer to load yaks and store gear. Towing has worked well for me.

nicksyak...what is that set up for the tongue? that is the issue I have with most trailers.

thx

My OK T13 is difficult for me to top load on my high profile SUV, so I put together a small Harbor Freight trailer to load yaks and store gear. Towing has worked well for me.

nicksyak...what is that set up for the tongue? that is the issue I have with most trailers.

thx

The HB utillity trailer comes with a tongue that is too small to accommodate the length of most yaks. I had a nine foot tongue fabricated by a local smithy here in Vallejo. A 4'X8' trailer might not require this modification.

That is nice.  I am betting I would need to extend the tongue due to the length of my boat.  I was considering one of these tongue swivels:



Bolted on it may be an easy way to extend the tongue and also to allow it to fold up when stored.  I would not trust it with too much weight though.

I am leaning more toward the trailer.  I have roof racks that will work in a pinch.  I do think the trailer would save a lot of effort.  It would be nice to have all the gear loaded in the storage boxes, so you would only need to hook up to the trailer and go.  I have been looking at the Harbor Freight and the Tractor Supply trailers.  I would want side walls welded of bolted onto it though for more secure gear storage.

I appreciate the advise and ideas guys.  Totes method looks almost too easy!   

Matt

The fulton swing-away tongue units will hold a fairly substantial amount of weight ... more than you will experience with even a full load of kayaks.  A correctly balanced single axle trailer should have no less than 10% & nore more than 15% hitch weight.  Even to assume 6 kayaks @ 60# each + 500# for the trailer that's only 86-129# of hitch weight.  I have 2 HF trailers and they work well.  Go with the 12" tires if you have a choice and add bearing protectors.  12" tires are easier to find when you blow one and they disipate heat faster while driving due to surface area and the lower RPM vs. 8"/10" wheels.

The fulton swing-away tongue units will hold a fairly substantial amount of weight ... more than you will experience with even a full load of kayaks.  A correctly balanced single axle trailer should have no less than 10% & nore more than 15% hitch weight.  Even to assume 6 kayaks @ 60# each + 500# for the trailer that's only 86-129# of hitch weight.  I have 2 HF trailers and they work well.  Go with the 12" tires if you have a choice and add bearing protectors.  12" tires are easier to find when you blow one and they disipate heat faster while driving due to surface area and the lower RPM vs. 8"/10" wheels.

Agree. I would not want anything less than 12" wheels. Bearing protectors? Have never heard nor seen them, and they sound like a good idea. Can you tell me something about them? How they work and where to get them? I'm not real mechanical. I take the trailer out maybe twice a month for about 300 miles each trip, so I would call my use moderate. I have re-greased via the Zerk fittings once in the last year and planned to check and perhaps replace the bearings 1X/year whether they need it or not.

Here is my trailer.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=8271.90
Same base as Tote and Danglins. The tongue on these is adjustable. Short or long. The wheel position is also adjustable. When the tongue is extended it is crucial to have the wheels in the center of the trailer or the weight of the trailer will bend the tongue. I borrowed some yaks from Lincoln PD and they had the wheels in the back position. The tongue was severely bent from all the weight on it.  it is a great little trailer to tow and use. Very hard to find one used for a decent price. I've been trying to get another so I can construct a second for sale. If you find one for $400 you will be doing good. Then add all the work and material. Should finish in the 800-1000 range with racks etc. Not including labor if you sub out. I can carry up to 6 yaks and gear.