Help With Crankbait Combo?

I've been spending a lot of time recently on learning basic bass tenchiques but have been having a hard time getting a good distance cast out of my current setup.  Before I go and do something like drop a bunch of money on a new setup, I was wondering if someone can help me understand what to look for by comparing it to the combo I been using.

Currently I have been using an Abu Revo Inshore (6-8lb mono) with a Shimano Clarus rod CSC-70M L:7ft LI:8-17lb LU:1/4-5/8 P:Med A:Med Fast and tossing mostly 3/16 1/4 and 5/16ths lures (shadrap, huskeys, J9).  But like I said I dont feel like I can cast far enough with this setup to effectivly dive the crankbait to the depth I want before it's back to the boat.

So, is there anything wrong with the rod or reel choice here?  Is it mainly the rod I should be concerned about here, since it delivers the power?  And, do I really need to go up to a Gloomis or other high price brands for a performance increase, or are there cheaper alternatives to consider?

Thanks guys, i'm getting a bit confused looking at all the options out there!

I'm in the same boat as you Al. Dying to see some comments on this topic.

Jedmo

my 2 cents..

Casting light weight lures can be difficult with a bait caster - especially when casting against the wind (at least from my experience) - for lighter lures, I use a spinning reel. instead.

Abu Revo Inshore (6-8lb mono) with a Shimano Clarus rod

I have a similar set up like yours but use it with heavier lures like spinnerbait, bulkier crankbaits, spoons (for jigging deep water bass) and big  trout immitation swimbaits.

next time we fish - I'll show you a trick I use with a spinning reel that makes it "act" like a bait caster

Al your rod is rated for 1/4-3/4 oz and you are casting a bulky 1/4 oz and the rods not loading up, if you go to a lighter slower rod, you will get more distance but still have problems with any wind. I would switch to spinning for small cranks under 3/8s

Bump it up to 10-12 lb, unless your working a thermo, you want your plug tight to cover pounding away at it, 6-8 is way to light for guerilla crankin.

Slow action 7'+ rods, my sticks are old fiberglass crankbait rods and they're soft as butter.  Todays blanks are way more sophisticated with blended combos that will have good backbone low and soft action through most of the tip end of the rod.  The slow action will let you load up on the cast and not rip the small trebles out of the mouth when fighting fish.  I wouldn't switch to a spinning rod to chuck lighter baits.....just position your boat closer to the cover you're working, drop your rod tip under water on the retrieve to stay in the strike zone longer.

Casting light weight lures can be difficult with a bait caster - especially when casting against the wind (at least from my experience) - for lighter lures, I use a spinning reel. instead.

That is what I was thinking.  Your rod seems ok for crankin, being 7' and medium power.  Up your line to 10-12 pound flouro and tie on a half ounce lipless crank then test it out.  At the end of the day, it pretty much depends on what you intend to throw.  Lighter cranks would do better on the spinning setup as mentioned.  Heavier stuff would do well on you setup with the right line.......

 Kinda goes without saying, but compare your kayak mechanics to your on shore casting mechanics. You lose a lot distance casting from a yak.

sneek up on them and drop a weedless plastic on them.....save the crankbaits for the pros.  fill your spools with 10lb braid and all those light lures will sink deeper. Don't buy a $$$ nothing!!!   it's all about the leader and presentation......andIFaBASSisEVENthere!

Hi Al!  I agree bumping up the line size.  I use 12-17 lb on most my bass set-ups due to fishing around so much structure and weeds. 

Many new to baitcasters have their magnetic/manal brake set too hard.  I like my lure to fall fast but in control.  Of course you need to be fairly good at thumb control and be prepared to have some "professional overruns" during your casts until you improve    i thumb based upon the sound my reel makes.  i can hear when the spool is going faster than the line, the tone changes.

The Silicon line sprays really help with casting.  They make the line slick and take away some of the memory.  It really helps the line go thru the level wind guide.  My casts increase 1/3 by just spraying the line down.  I use "Reel Magic" but any silicon spray should work if it is mono safe.  Some guys even use WD40, but I hear it can weaken the line.

Hot rod the reel if you feel comfortable doing so.  Lube those bearing with a low viscocity oil like Hot Sauce every few months.  A lot of grease also slows down the reel. I just use a thin coat on the gears, and redo them once a year.

A lot of your distance will come with time and practice.  Make sure you load the rod on the cast but do't whip it.  You will definately overrun!  I also agree your casts are much shorter off a kayak.  It is due to the platform and height above the water.

Matt

I'm no crankbait expert, but I've learned a lot about baitcasting the last couple years. Matt is dead on about having your magnetic brake set to hard. The most dramatic example of this I experienced was with a Phlueger(sp?) President reel. It has all three adjustments available. Line tension, magnetic and centrifugal brakes. I spent a couple hours messing with it on my cheap Ugly Stik Lite one afternoon. Started out unimpressed, but as I made adjustments I got some *real* distance. It was amazing.

The silicon spray sounds like a great idea. Do you use it on braid, Matt?

Ben

Yes, the Silicon works well on braid.  I find the most difference on the mono or flourocarbon lines though.  The silicon on braid seems to reduce the line noise thru the guides and makes it a lot slicker.  I have used the cheap aerosol silicon spray and it seems to work well.  The carriers might effect the line but I have not noticed any damage or strength loss.  The pumpsprays are the safest on line though, just more expensive.

Spraying down your reels with Silicon makes them easier to clean after bait fishing too!  Note that the spray is actually Silicon oil so doesn't seem to attract moisture or dirt.  Definately helps prevent corrosion.

Matt

Al don't change your line test stay with 8lb on those little cranks if you go heavier you will shorten your casts and the lures won't dive nearly as deep. On some of my smaller cranks I put heavy duty or bigger hooks or suspend dots on the bill that will give you a lot more distance and depth, or just use bigger cranks LMB aren't shy.

I disagree. I never thought Clarus rods had enough guides on them to keep the line from slapping the rod when casting. It seems they are missing one or two  on every rod I have. But that is why they are $80 bucks, not $150. They are good all-around fishing rods, but you will never achieve the casting distance compared to a premium rod. I have a half dozen or more Clarus rods, I like 'em, but they don't have Fuji SIC guides which have NO drag on a cast line.

 I have found most rods are design to operate best it the middle of their recommended lure weight range. When the lure weight range is 1/4 to 5/8 oz, I have found the 3/8 to 1/2 oz. cast best. So using 1/4 oz crankbaits, your rod is struggling to load before launch. The rod is the right size for the fish in the delta, the lures just need more weight.  Why not try a deeper diving bait? Shadrap are a pretty shallow runner (4 to 15 feet), you will never cast far enough to get a Shadrap to dive deeper than 12', only by trolling and using ultra light lines.

The longest distance casting rods are all extra-fast tapers, but most people don't have the timing (ability to make a hard, complete STOP on their forward cast) to make them work properly. Your rod is a little slow to get the distance you want using the line you are using.  Earlier today I went out to Suisun Harbor to test something before I shot my mouth off. I took 2 equal rods (both Kistler Helium 7' crankbait rods , 1/16 to 1/2 oz, 6lb to 12lb line) 2 Shimano Chronarchs, tired to adjust them the exact same way, one lined up with 10lb Maxima ultragreen ( my go to steelhead reel) and I got a Free Spool of Sufix 10lb Performance Fuse (dyneema), I put a 1/4 oz Shad Rap on both rods, cast out the Maxima rod , then cast the Sufix rod, the Sufix lined rod cast about 40 FEET farther. I tried it 6 times, then bailed out of there when I thought "Gee Brian, you don't have a 2 rod stamp, and your fishing license is at home." I actually put it in the cattails across from the boat launch twice.

The Sufix is .008 thick, the Maxima is .012, 50% thicker. Thinner line will dive deeper and cast farther every time. But I would not want to fish a crankbait with zero stretch line. I would lose too many fish. The reason everyone switched back to glass rods and mono for crankbaits is because the stiff graphite fast, super fast, extra fast rods had no give when a fish bolted with one set of trebles in it mouth and 2 sets flopping around the bass' chin. The slower glass rods allow the bait to work better too.


Another distance trick I use for flycasting distance competitions, I shoot all my guides with "303" protectant, ( the stuff you spray on rafts to protect it from UV) . It is liquid silicone, and slicker than North Umpqua River moss. You want your guides dry before every cast too. Most of us retrieve the lure with the rod tip in the water. That water on the guides creates drag when casting. A good "thawng" on the rod knocks the water droplets off after each cast.

HOPE THIS HELPS. Troutnut

Just use a spinning setup. Especially if you have confidence and experience using it. It's all about being in the zone.

Once again, blown away by troutnut's info. Good knowledge man, thanks!

Once again, blown away by troutnut's info. Good knowledge man, thanks!

yeah, me three!