Rockhoppers Pimped P-15

OK needs you on their R&D/engineering team SBD! That's some nice clean work.

Z

OK needs you on their R&D/engineering team SBD! That's some nice clean work.

Z

I totally agree with ya Z 

Gracias...I would love that opportunity, I have lots of ideas in my head!!

Sean, what is the plug/stopper used for the FF wires going through the deck? I've seen a couple of other workarounds and cheaper solutions, but that one looks pretty bullet proof.

you will be able to easily remove the entire head unit, base, and RAM extension while OTW no problem. This allows you to remove everything from the deck except the RAM ball and some wires (not a problem and can be pulled taught so they aren't dangling)

I have found that having the head unit off OTW, even for a second, is how most corrosion was getting into the connectors on my units.  By keeping it out of harms way, but with all of the connections snuggled up and bathing in dielectric grease is good preventative medicine.
Also to make your concept work, would have to skip installing the plug retainer in the base...the retainer is key to making sure your connections stay connected.

Good points. But I've been running it this way, without the plug retainer for approx 4 years w/out corrosion issues. And the plugs have never lost contact while OTW either. Seriously.
I'm just offering alternatives for people who may want to make these types of mods while maintaining a clean, uncluttered deck/console. Or if they wanted to store & transport the kayak sans-FF. Of course, there is no right answer to this type of stuff; just personal preferences.
PK

Agreed, that's good feedback.

Great ideas Sean. And exemplary craftsmanship as well.

Having to have the transducer in foam cemented inside on the hull bottom in the path of the rods in the original P-15 is one reason why I moved to a T-15--well, that and the sonar shield and rod pod as well. The main feature I like about the Cobra Marauder was the big center hatch for rod storage--I missed that in the P-15. But the Marauder was too much of a barge for a guy my size.

Sean, what is the plug/stopper used for the FF wires going through the deck? I've seen a couple of other workarounds and cheaper solutions, but that one looks pretty bullet proof.

It's a wire seal.  I used them on both of my set-ups, and you're right, they are bullet proof.  Lots of info on the board if you do a search.

Michael

Sean, what is the plug/stopper used for the FF wires going through the deck? I've seen a couple of other workarounds and cheaper solutions, but that one looks pretty bullet proof.

It's a wire seal.  I used them on both of my set-ups, and you're right, they are bullet proof.  Lots of info on the board if you do a search.

Michael

Thanks - I did a subsequent search and indeed found a lot of info. Seems West MArine charges a lot, but Sealcon is much cheaper. Went to the sealcon website and had no idea what model or size # to order. I guess a lilttle more research is in order. 

obkook:

Here is how Sean does it now: http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,8244.msg72808.html#msg72808

I now do this as well (starting with my new T-15).

Previously, I 1) went "ghetto" using a sliced piece of an artificial wine cork and "gooping the heck out of it" on my Cobra Marauder and 2) used expensive ($22 or so) cable clams from West Marine on my P-15.

Happy hacking/rigging.

Looks nice Sean. Dustin says this is lighter than his t-13. I carried that bitch up the hill though. I need a t-11 for cliffdwelling. When I get one all the ideas you put out plus a few of my own will make her real happy. Thanks for the photos of the clean work. It inspires us to do clean work.

Another job well done!  Well.... done.  Just jokin'    You've got that t13 looking cleeean, Sean.

The trans cable is stich glued to the bottom to keep it out of his gear.

Thats a new one for me.  I'm picturing the cable laid down in small beads of adhesive along where its meant to stay?  Is that close?

Exactly Nate.  Glue on end and let it dry completly.  Then snap it tight at the other end, weight it down, and glue it.  Once that cures, and you're happy with it, put a small dab of Goop on the cable every foot or so depending on access.  It will flow on down the cable and onto the hull.  Once cured it won't budge and it eliminates any chances for tangles OTW.

Did I mention how sick it is?

Thanks again, Sean.