FF setup for Prowler 15

I just got a new prowler 15 and i am looking into putting a FF on it...i still am not sure how to install it....how do you guys have the transducers set up....or power supply ...or where to drill.....what supplies i need....and i am not sure what type of FF to get yet....any suggestions?

Thanks
KD

kid - Congrats! Look here for ideas:

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/board,25.0.html

thanks...anybody have any more advice or suggestions

I'm not sure how the Prowler 15 is configurated, but probably the best thing is to take a look at what others have.  I set mine up after scouring posts here for hours, and went with:

-Eagle Cuda 168, mounted directly in front of me.  The base is permanently mounted, but the unit is removeable from the base at the push of a button.

-8 rechargeable "2000" AA batteries, (about $25 with charger from Fry's).  They go in a holder that's about $2.

You'll have to do some soldering, but it's simple.  I'd put dialectric stuff, then heatshrink over the soldered wires.

The best way to go with the tranducer is the pool noodle mount, but it's kinda trucky to get it just right.  You'll need silicone glue to mount the noodle chunk.

I put the batteries in a drybag, and put it in the hatch between my legs, and just run the tranducer wire along the outside of the cockpit to the rear hatch, where I have the foam mounted.  The hatches pop right on over the wires, and I haven't noticed any extra water getting in, (although I'm sure that might be an issue on a really rough day).

Sounds complicated, but it's easy, and the whole shebang comes out in one piece.

Eventually I may drill holes to mount it permanently, with wires going thru the hull, but I kinda like the fact that I can take it out without disconnecting anything and worrying about sand getting in there on the beach.

The only holes I drilled were for the screws to mount the mounting bracket on the round space on the deck in front of my feet.
If you don't want to drill any holes, but that's not a big deal:         
  I've discovered that you can get a couple of 3" suction cups from Ace.com and mount those on a thin board and mount the bracket on that and stick it on the front hatch, and strap it down with the hatch strap, which will also hold the hatch down. I've got 37" sleeves, so this far forward might not work for someone with a shorter reach.

In either case, the wires go from the head under the hatch cover, I think the rubber gasket seals the water out even with the slight bumps of the wire.
  I use the pool noodle thing, shape the hole to tightly fit the t/d, and I used Goop marine (or plumbers), because I had trouble with silicone coming loose when I used it to stick the t/d to the hull a couple of ff ago, but it would probably work better with the noodle because that's flexible. Goop it liberally, but you'll just have more to scrape off someday if you use too much.  You might need to check as it dries to make sure it hasn't oozed out into the area the t/d is going to shoot through, if it does, scape it off while it's half set up.
  I poked a hole in a watertight kitchen box, pushed the wires ( I used the two wire trailer connecter here so I can disconnect the battedry box and reduce corrosion while transporting & storing) through, gooped the hole up, and put that in a foam padded lunch carrier, zip it up and just shove it back under the hatch - it doesn't rattle, and if it moves, it's protected, and I have a room in the lunch thing to put the head and wires when I transport it. If a stowed pole gets stuck on it, I can pull the whole carrier out with the pole.
  I have the t/d mounted under the rear 6" hatch - that hatch is not useful for much else, in my opinion.  I made a little wrench from pvc to open it when it gets sticky with sand - two tees joined by a short piece of pipe. When my yak is dry, I brush the threads of the hatch and cover to get the loose sand out. Also, I have a thin rope tied to the rear hatch cover that runs to the front hatch. I tie it to the t/d to pull it back to the foam, then pull the wires to get it forward again - saves me time fishing it back every go- out. 

thanks...anybody have any more advice or suggestions

The search function is your friend... I learned how to do this ( http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,9638.0.html )

...after using the search function for several days...

There is no "right way", and only you can decide what's best for you after you become informed on the myriad variations to pimp...

I'm thinking of going with an RC car battery pack, or making my own out of rechargable AA's.  Fewer contact points would be a good thing.