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Topic: Battery connections  (Read 1783 times)

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Ebayfisher

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Berkeley, CA
  • Date Registered: Mar 2018
  • Posts: 429
I have a very tenuous battery connection that finally snapped during my last ocean outing.  Luckily, visibility was good and I was not far from the launch when it happened the so I didn't have to rely on way points to get back home. 

The battery cables that came with my Lowrance FF are super thin.  Any advice at all would be appreciated: connectors, how to route battery wires, securing the battery box to the kayak so it doesn't slide around(I believe this to be the culprit to the broken wire).

Thanks y'all


CGN-38

  • Del Valle Storm Trooper
  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Survivor Del Valle FnC 09'
  • Location: Felton, CA. (In the Redwoods)
  • Date Registered: Mar 2005
  • Posts: 3652
 :smt006
  You might try soldering on (Heat shrink each solder joint) water proof connectors (Plugs& sockets)instead of the individual spade connectors. I've used the spade terminals they last a few years (On my truck not ocean going kayak!) but eventually corrode (Crimped connection) now if/when I choose spade terminals I don't go lazy and simply crimp, I solder now.  Either liquid electrical tape or heat shrink tubing over the connection.  (Remember to place the heat shrink tubing on the wires before you join them)
  As far as anchoring the battery box?  Maybe Velcro strips stuck to hull and battery box?  you'd have to anchor the hull piece of Velcro to the hull really well.  Depending on the Velcro patch size, its contact patch and sticky glue,may enough to adhere to hull without adding a glue medium to help?


Member/survivor STORM TROOPER Brigade


Tim in Albion

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
  • Location: The Nation of Albion
  • Date Registered: Oct 2018
  • Posts: 216
I made a sort of cradle for my battery, out of some 1" thick rigid foam I had laying around. Cut out a rectangle slightly smaller than the battery so it's a snug fit, stacked two layers so it gets a grip, and glued it down to the hull. Now I can just stuff the battery in there and it doesn't slide around. I'll try to get a pic.
Swell Scupper 14 in Great White (!)


Ebayfisher

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Berkeley, CA
  • Date Registered: Mar 2018
  • Posts: 429
:smt006
  You might try soldering on (Heat shrink each solder joint) water proof connectors (Plugs& sockets)instead of the individual spade connectors. I've used the spade terminals they last a few years (On my truck not ocean going kayak!) but eventually corrode (Crimped connection) now if/when I choose spade terminals I don't go lazy and simply crimp, I solder now.  Either liquid electrical tape or heat shrink tubing over the connection.  (Remember to place the heat shrink tubing on the wires before you join them)
  As far as anchoring the battery box?  Maybe Velcro strips stuck to hull and battery box?  you'd have to anchor the hull piece of Velcro to the hull really well.  Depending on the Velcro patch size, its contact patch and sticky glue,may enough to adhere to hull without adding a glue medium to help?
Great advice, CGN.  The soldering,  shrink wrap, and  waterproof connector will work well.  This is the first time I've heard of liquid electrical tape.   As for anchoring the battery box I HAVE installed heavy-duty velcro to the battery box and hull but I find the velcro eventually becomes fouled with sand and crap and no longer adheres well. Now that I think of it there was another NCKA that I believe made a foam retainer that the battery box sits inside.  I may give that a try.


Ebayfisher

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Berkeley, CA
  • Date Registered: Mar 2018
  • Posts: 429
« Last Edit: June 14, 2019, 10:50:57 PM by Ebayfisher »


Jplutino

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Novato, ca
  • Date Registered: Apr 2018
  • Posts: 224
I have a very tenuous battery connection that finally snapped during my last ocean outing.  Luckily, visibility was good and I was not far from the launch when it happened the so I didn't have to rely on way points to get back home. 

The battery cables that came with my Lowrance FF are super thin.  Any advice at all would be appreciated: connectors, how to route battery wires, securing the battery box to the kayak so it doesn't slide around(I believe this to be the culprit to the broken wire).

Thanks y'all
I have an old town predator it comes with a suspension cradle bag.  You could probably purchase one from Johnson outdoors I think.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk



simplycook

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: El Cerrito
  • Date Registered: Jan 2014
  • Posts: 1456
Mike, call or shoot me a text and I'll get you sorted out.  I just rewired my hobie today and have plenty of spare quick disconnect plugs for you. 
Kevin


Tinker

  • Guest
Great advice, CGN.  The soldering,  shrink wrap, and  waterproof connector will work well.  This is the first time I've heard of liquid electrical tape.   As for anchoring the battery box I HAVE installed heavy-duty velcro to the battery box and hull but I find the velcro eventually becomes fouled with sand and crap and no longer adheres well. Now that I think of it there was another NCKA that I believe made a foam retainer that the battery box sits inside.  I may give that a try.

Try using Outdoor Extreme 2" x 4" Velcro strips and only attach the hook side to the kayak - the hooks are easy to clean and to keep clean, and the strips are plenty strong.  I once forgot to pull the battery out and hauled the kayak home, upside down, and the battery box was still in place when I got home - although I do use a dab of GOOP to secure the Velcro to the hull.

As an alternative to soldering (if your skills aren't up to it) you can use 2-layer marine butt joints that have an adhesive in them.  I still add liquid adhesive tape and 2-layer marine heat shrink to seal and secure any type of connection I make.

My battery box is very similar to the ones pmmpete builds (pictures he posted to NWKA here: http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=17734.msg217304#msg217304). and the only exposed connection is where I've attached a 2-prong SAE plug to the finder's power cable.

One last note: don't get carried away with how much of that Velcro you use - I use two strips - because it can get hard to get the battery box out.  DAMHIK.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2019, 05:36:05 AM by Tinker »


NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12992
Would anyone recommend this waterproof connector I saw on Amazon?

CGN, lol about (Remember to place the heat shrink tubing on the wires before you join them) I've wasted a lot of wire not remembering this procedure.  :smt005

https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Connector-1-5mm-Terminal/dp/B01A6LTK44/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi43oBRDBARIsAExSRQFCDaKaAZ3BbUDZbipHHgEBATneXhFfhDuuW3PKTEpC5ADMWiBdv50aAvEQEALw_wcB&hvadid=174249503025&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032075&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16494036278033819640&hvtargid=kwd-137760944&hydadcr=8457_9619021&keywords=waterproof+connector&qid=1560577249&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use those and they work great to connect my battery, which is stored in the rear hatch on my Hobie. Easy on, easy off, and never had any trouble with them at all in several years of use.

Having said that, they may not be truly waterproof, but certainly they're plenty water-resistant for my use. I figure if my rear hatch fills completely with water for long enough to cause problems with these, I've got a lot bigger problems than a battery connection to worry about...
I don't like stuff that sucks.
    --- Butt-Head


E Kayaker

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Vacaville
  • Date Registered: Sep 2010
  • Posts: 4651
I soldered the small gauge power wire to a piece of solid large gauge bare copper wire. I then connected that to the plug and covered it with liquid electrical tape. That gives me a sturdier wire at the plug so it isn’t damaged when I plug or unplug it. Especially if you solder the wire on a little from the end of the large piece. Then tape the little wire against the big wire so it is stabilized.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=42846.msg470404#msg470404

The charm of fishing is that it is the pursuit of what is elusive but attainable, a perpetual series of occasions for hope.  ~John Buchan


Mark L

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Albany
  • Date Registered: Oct 2017
  • Posts: 1791
I used a garden kneeling pad for my battery, and transducer. First I cut out the holes and glued it to the hull. The transducer is glued down to the hull as well, and the battery just sits in the slot. The battery I use(Nocqua) came with water tight screw connectors, and water tight crimp connectors.
2018 Eddyline Yellow Caribbean 14 Angler
2024 Stealth Elite 530


Rk2fish

  • Sand Dab
  • **
  • Location: Fresno
  • Date Registered: Jul 2018
  • Posts: 67
Would anyone recommend this waterproof connector I saw on Amazon?

CGN, lol about (Remember to place the heat shrink tubing on the wires before you join them) I've wasted a lot of wire not remembering this procedure.  :smt005

https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Connector-1-5mm-Terminal/dp/B01A6LTK44/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi43oBRDBARIsAExSRQFCDaKaAZ3BbUDZbipHHgEBATneXhFfhDuuW3PKTEpC5ADMWiBdv50aAvEQEALw_wcB&hvadid=174249503025&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032075&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16494036278033819640&hvtargid=kwd-137760944&hydadcr=8457_9619021&keywords=waterproof+connector&qid=1560577249&s=gateway&sr=8-3


I too, have used those connections on my previous kayak setup. They seem to do the job. You can spray or add foam in the battery compartment to keep the battery from moving. Velcro as suggested is good advise also.


NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12992
I used a garden kneeling pad for my battery, and transducer...

That’s a good plan. I just gooped a couple of strips of pool noodles inside the hull so that the battery can’t move front-to-back. And I’ve got a short section of a pool noodle gooped to the hatch, so that when the hatch is closed, it presses down on the battery. Super simple and no way the battery is going anywhere.
I don't like stuff that sucks.
    --- Butt-Head


Mojo Jojo

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Tillamook, Oregon
  • Date Registered: Apr 2016
  • Posts: 2043
I used a close cell packing foam block they had at our post office (free) marine gooped it to a freshly sanded hull cut slightly smaller then my battery.  For quick connects I tried automotive clip together but they corrode to fast going to switch to screw together. For wire to wire I started using the ones in the photo.


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SlackedTide

  • Sea Lion
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  • Location: Weekdays a Prius, Weekends a Revo
  • Date Registered: May 2014
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Solder it... want waterproof epoxy it.
2014 Hobie Revo 13
2011 Hobie Outback - bye bye
1997 Tracker 17 Deep V<--- Money Pit


When you look outside the window, and all you see is fishing. True Story.