Native Mariner rudder cable replacement

2012 Mariner, one of the rudder cables frayed and broke. It has two ring terminals on separate cables that get put under a plate and tightened at the handle end. Anyone have a better solution then the $40 stainless steel replacements?

After some "ugh" reading I found that the best solution is going to be 1.4 mm stainless steel shark leader that is a 7X7 strand (stock is inferior material) and just replace every couple years as routine maintenance. So $34.23 in my Amazon cart for 30ft of it, 10 crimp connectors and a hand crimping tool I should be set to make 3 cables.   

After some "ugh" reading I found that the best solution is going to be 1.4 mm stainless steel shark leader that is a 7X7 strand (stock is inferior material) and just replace every couple years as routine maintenance. So $34.23 in my Amazon cart for 30ft of it, 10 crimp connectors and a hand crimping tool I should be set to make 3 cables.

This is what I just did on a SIK I've got for exercise use. Works great. Note that the black-coated stuff from Amazon that comes with crimps has a stupid issue where the vinyl coating the cable makes it larger than the crimps' opening. Ended up needing to strip some coating off to get the leader through the crimps.

If you have a sailboat rigging shop close ask them.

Mojo
If you go to the Nativeownersgroup.com website there is a very long thread on the subject

Update now that we're on line.
  So here's the replacement cables all in.... I know, I know the terminal ends would have been way better but I didn't have them (going to order) and I have enough cable to do two and a half more cables. I will keep the tool and hardware in my trailer so if I go down again it's a parking lot fix instead of calling it a day. You can see where the fray and break happened and on the rudder disk I put the bolts on head down so the cable wouldn't catch the corners of the nuts. (Photos on next post)

   Something to consider for cable replacement:  I tried some stainless, plastic coated leader wire with crimps, and it corroded through and broke off at the crimps.  It was pretty thin wire though, so thicker might have lasted longer.
   Next,I tried some very heavy duty Spectra line, and it worked OK, but the diameter was a little small and it cut into the plastic tube that routes the cable. 
   [b]My current solution is some 1/8" braided dacron cord that I got at West Marine.  It's the right size and it doesn't stretch, though it's flexible enough to tie good knots in tight locations, and it doesn't abrade.   Of course, I have a Prowler paddle power so the measurement tolerances are pretty loose.   It's been on there for several years now with zero problems.  A dab of Super Glue on the knots, when dry, (once you get them just in the right spots) keeps them from untying. The cord is also useful for other applications where you want strong thin line with no stretch.

Here's what I used $34.?? On Amazon and enough for 4 complete cables.

And the rudder disk bolt position differences

Here's what I used $34.?? On Amazon and enough for 4 complete cables.

And the rudder disk bolt position differences

^ that's the stuff I used for my rudder lines, but in black.