Hobie gets reverse

I think this is a great thing, I like to fish tight little spots on lakes and clicking in reverse and backing out would be sweet.  Stowing the rod, puling the paddle (clunk) and backing up 8 feet to stow the paddle(clunk) because the paddle does not rest on my lap when pedaling without flopping right to left and pick rod back up for 2 casts irritates me.  Thats one reason I still have a paddle boat, but I am known to be easily irritated

I think this is aimed at bass fishermen, and I can see how it would be beneficial for that. It can be annoying trying to back out of tight spots in the back of coves, etc.. Sometimes I just stick my feet in the water and give a few kicks.

Bass fishing is where the big money is, so I am not at all surprised thats the market they're catering to.

I wish Hobie would make a boat that's built from the ground up for the serious saltwater use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wouldn't that be the Revo16 and AI? I'm not sure what they are missing for saltwater.

I keep reading about AIs taking on water through hatches, etc. That's a serious concern that should be addressed ASAP for a kayak that's built for serious saltwater use. Also, it seems Hobie is using some hardware made from poor quality steel. I rinse my gear religiously after each trip, and I'm not stoked to see rings of rust staining forming around stock screws. Recently one of the screws that attach one of my front rudder pullies snapped clean in half (it was rusty).

I have not paddled a Revo 16, butI will say I prefer a wider boat like the Outback. If Hobie created a 14 foot hybrid of the Outback and Revo 16, I'd be VERY interested. I know that's asking a lot, but I can dream...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on those stainless steel screws. i've been seeing them on some kayak's where they are rusting.

I also washing the living crap out of my revo but my mirage drive chains started rusting where the steel line meets the chain. i had them replaced recently from Hobie even though my 2 year warranty was over.

I also have that rust forming where the cable is slightly exposed, like in your pics. It worries me... I should probably bite the bullet and replace mine, too...

I still need to deal with that broken off screw... Only the head broke off, so I predict it's going to be a PITA to extract... For now the rudder pully still works fine, but it's definitely not confidence inspiring...

I've only had this boat since ~2011 and I'm not very happy with how much rust I see...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's a tool you can use that drills a hole into the screw until the torgue is too much then it starts forcing the screw out. I forget the name of it. Home Depot should have it, I use it all the time for stuff like that in HVAC.

I also have that rust forming where the cable is slightly exposed, like in your pics. It worries me... I should probably bite the bullet and replace mine, too...

I still need to deal with that broken off screw... Only the head broke off, so I predict it's going to be a PITA to extract... For now the rudder pully still works fine, but it's definitely not confidence inspiring...

I've only had this boat since ~2011 and I'm not very happy with how much rust I see...
Some parts have a shelf life in salt water. Joining SS chain to cable in the drive will corrode then weaken over time. After snapping a cable at the connection last year I replaced all cable/chains on my drives. Will repeat in a couple more years. Relatively easy to do and if you have a spare cable on board it can be done on the water.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's a tool you can use that drills a hole into the screw until the torgue is too much then it starts forcing the screw out. I forget the name of it. Home Depot should have it, I use it all the time for stuff like that in HVAC.

Yeah, I think I've got one kicking around one of my toolboxes. They're hit or miss.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think this is a great thing, I like to fish tight little spots on lakes and clicking in reverse and backing out would be sweet.  Stowing the rod, puling the paddle (clunk) and backing up 8 feet to stow the paddle(clunk) because the paddle does not rest on my lap when pedaling without flopping right to left and pick rod back up for 2 casts irritates me.  Thats one reason I still have a paddle boat, but I am known to be easily irritated

I think this is aimed at bass fishermen, and I can see how it would be beneficial for that. It can be annoying trying to back out of tight spots in the back of coves, etc.. Sometimes I just stick my feet in the water and give a few kicks.

Bass fishing is where the big money is, so I am not at all surprised thats the market they're catering to.

I wish Hobie would make a boat that's built from the ground up for the serious saltwater use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wouldn't that be the Revo16 and AI? I'm not sure what they are missing for saltwater.

I keep reading about AIs taking on water through hatches, etc. That's a serious concern that should be addressed ASAP for a kayak that's built for serious saltwater use. Also, it seems Hobie is using some hardware made from poor quality steel. I rinse my gear religiously after each trip, and I'm not stoked to see rings of rust staining forming around stock screws. Recently one of the screws that attach one of my front rudder pullies snapped clean in half (it was rusty).

I have not paddled a Revo 16, butI will say I prefer a wider boat like the Outback. If Hobie created a 14 foot hybrid of the Outback and Revo 16, I'd be VERY interested. I know that's asking a lot, but I can dream...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on those stainless steel screws. i've been seeing them on some kayak's where they are rusting.

I also washing the living crap out of my revo but my mirage drive chains started rusting where the steel line meets the chain. i had them replaced recently from Hobie even though my 2 year warranty was over.

I never understood why HOBIE would expose that area of the drive. My illogical conclusion is that they want to sell replacement parts, but that is just me being skeptical. Either way, I lube, and spray corrosion X on all those points, and make sure to pay more attention there. Since then, i haven't had too much trouble--(Knock on wood)

I think this is a great thing, I like to fish tight little spots on lakes and clicking in reverse and backing out would be sweet.  Stowing the rod, puling the paddle (clunk) and backing up 8 feet to stow the paddle(clunk) because the paddle does not rest on my lap when pedaling without flopping right to left and pick rod back up for 2 casts irritates me.  Thats one reason I still have a paddle boat, but I am known to be easily irritated

I think this is aimed at bass fishermen, and I can see how it would be beneficial for that. It can be annoying trying to back out of tight spots in the back of coves, etc.. Sometimes I just stick my feet in the water and give a few kicks.

Bass fishing is where the big money is, so I am not at all surprised thats the market they're catering to.

I wish Hobie would make a boat that's built from the ground up for the serious saltwater use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wouldn't that be the Revo16 and AI? I'm not sure what they are missing for saltwater.

I keep reading about AIs taking on water through hatches, etc. That's a serious concern that should be addressed ASAP for a kayak that's built for serious saltwater use. Also, it seems Hobie is using some hardware made from poor quality steel. I rinse my gear religiously after each trip, and I'm not stoked to see rings of rust staining forming around stock screws. Recently one of the screws that attach one of my front rudder pullies snapped clean in half (it was rusty).

I have not paddled a Revo 16, butI will say I prefer a wider boat like the Outback. If Hobie created a 14 foot hybrid of the Outback and Revo 16, I'd be VERY interested. I know that's asking a lot, but I can dream...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on those stainless steel screws. i've been seeing them on some kayak's where they are rusting.

I also washing the living crap out of my revo but my mirage drive chains started rusting where the steel line meets the chain. i had them replaced recently from Hobie even though my 2 year warranty was over.

I never understood why HOBIE would expose that area of the drive. My illogical conclusion is that they want to sell replacement parts, but that is just me being skeptical. Either way, I lube, and spray corrosion X on all those points, and make sure to pay more attention there. Since then, i haven't had too much trouble--(Knock on wood)

i've been using corrosion x on all those metal surfaces for years and still it is rusting it. dunno i might not use enough but i spray the living shit out of it

My chain cable broke inside the plastic sheath. They need to use a better quality of stainless steel in their parts.



Also, my fin shaft broke at the setscrew just like Radon's. There's no way a quarter inch stainless steel shaft should be able to be broken by a setscrew threaded in rubber!

If it were not for the design of the Mirage Drive Hobie would be nowhere near their position in the market.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My chain cable broke inside the plastic sheath. They need to use a better quality of stainless steel in their parts.



Also, my fin shaft broke at the setscrew just like Radon's. There's no way a quarter inch stainless steel shaft should be able to be broken by a setscrew threaded in rubber!

If it were not for the design of the Mirage Drive Hobie would be nowhere near their position in the market.

Hobie does some brilliant engineering but also mediocrity. Cable connected to chain via a crimp on sleeve is a flat out weak spot. Chain all the way would be stronger. I don't know if it's possible for them to design it that way but if they could come up with a fin reversal system for reverse I would think they could up their game here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been using this product called Break Free and have been very happy with the result. It was recommended by Smokie. I think they are popular as a gun cleaner/lubricant. Prior to that I was using different lubricants like wd40, liquid wrench, etc and still rust were showing in those spots.

I really like the ingenuity in the design of that thing.
Still trying to figure out a situation where reverse was really a necessity.
I haven't lost any fish because I didn't have it.
Haven't lost any gear because I didn't have it.
I'm still alive so it's never been a life or death situation for my by not having it.
I want to see in a year or two how it goes. Like with every new product, there are always bugs to work out.
R&D is great, but you can't get any more R&D than letting the masses have at it.
That being said, I'd still like to check it out.
The biggest advantage I see is when you're trying to brope-up. Might make it a bit easier in case you over shoot your intended target.

I think you could make tighter turns if wanted or needed by going back then forward with full rudder twists.

I think you could make tighter turns if wanted or needed by going back then forward with full rudder twists.

You mean doing an Austin Powers turn on the water?

Pretty much except instead of walls a rock and the breaker.

The only time I've ever wanted reverse is when I was fishing in a cove and the current was pushing me into the cove but I wanted to stay back (cast and retrieve topwater fishing for bass).