How to improve tracking while Paddling an Outback...

I want to use my Outback in rivers with some flowing water where it may be too shallow for the Mirage drive. (Basically chasing steelhead...)

When I paddle without the rudder, it is an effort to track straight in still water.  I imagine it would truly suck on a moving shallow river.

Any ideas out there on how to improve tracking when paddling without the rudder?

The best I can come up with is to make a modified rudder that is wider, but not as long (to have a shallow draft), and find some way to lock the rudder handle in the straight position.

Maybe a longer paddle?  Maybe I just need to buy another kayak? 

Unless you use something like a drift chute or something like a chain as an anchor dragging behind you, not much that I can think of. The OB is really dependent on the rudder for tracking, since it's more designed with turning in mind with the rudder than tracking straight.

A sailing rudder might help if u can somehow lock the rudder steering handle.

A Revo13 would paddle better. But, with either boat you will be surprised with how much you can get away with using the drive.  And you can always try using the regular fins instead of the turbos.

I use my outback primarily because I can peddle. If I had plans of shallow river kayaking more than a once in a great while I would get a different kayak.

Naoaki is selling a OK t-11 w drift anchor set up. that would be prefect for rivers. i would be all over it if I didnt have a yak for riverfishing already.

The Outback tracks better than just about any whitewater kayak on the market.  If you keep paddling your Outback, you'll develop the ability to keep it moving in a straight line by making small corrections with every stroke.  It'll soon become automatic.  Forget about adding a modified rudder or dragging a drift chute.  Just develop some basic paddling skills.

when I use the paddle instead of the pedal, I flip up the rudder and do correction with the paddle. I do have the bigger rudder. I'm looking at getting a different paddle since the hobie one is quite heavy and seem like its too short for the outback. Each stroke water get into the boat.

Just develop some basic paddling skills.

Yeah...  That wouldn't hurt either, would it?

You'll track better when you have the cassette inside the mirage drive hole.

You'll track better when you have the cassette inside the mirage drive hole.

I haven't noticed that putting the plug in the Mirage Drive hole improves tracking, but it keeps water from constantly sloshing in and out of your cockpit through the hole.

You'll track better when you have the cassette inside the mirage drive hole.

Exactly.
Also, I just thought of this (*patent pending!! haha) but maybe modify the cassette by adding a small skeg? That could possibly improve tracking.

I like the plug/daggerboard idea too:
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=50153

You'll track better when you have the cassette inside the mirage drive hole.

Exactly.
Also, I just thought of this (*patent pending!! haha) but maybe modify the cassette by adding a small skeg? That could possibly improve tracking.

Cancel the appointment you made with a patent lawyer!  Rudders and skegs on boats, kayaks, and surfboards are always at the stern, but the Mirage Drive hole is about a third of the way back from the bow of Hobie kayaks.  If you added a skeg to a kayak at the Mirage Drive hole, it would tend to make the kayak spin sideways. And on a river, a skeg would tend to hang up on the bottom and/or get busted off.   

Just develop some basic paddling skills.

Yeah...  That wouldn't hurt either, would it?

I think this just speaks to the design of the Outback.  The width prohibits "comfortable and efficient" paddling.  You're forced to lean out, off your normal center line and stretch your arms to get a high angle stroke past the gunwales.  With this movement, you're likely adding more power to your stroke because the uncomfortable position naturally makes you feel that you're not using enough power.  If you don't lean out, you'll be paddling with a low angle stroke, following the shape of the wide hull, which puts you into a steering stroke.  All this combines to make it seem like the Outback doesn't track well.  Adding a skeg or modifying the rudder isn't going to fix the root cause of the poor tracking (which is the paddler).

These are just my observations when I switched from an Outback to narrower kayaks.  It's the trade-off when you have an OB: comfortable, pedaling stability vs paddling effort.  I still paddle my Outfitter (tandem Outback) and always have to really focus on how I paddle to keep it tracking straight.  It can be exhausting.

A technique I saw online somewhere was to use the bungie (modified I think) to keep the pedals of the drive separated (tucked up against the hull).  The guy describing the technique said he could kick the pedals in short flutters, which still provided propulsion, but would keep the fins from fully extending vertically.  He didn't lock the rudder so it could bounce off any obstructions.

Yes... yes I am bored at work.

My new idea:
1) Learn to paddle better.
2) Get a new paddle: a 230cm paddle is too short for the Outback.
3) Cheap easily removable modification: Using the Mirage Plug as a front anchoring point, add a strip of "T" or "U" profile extruded rubber down the center of the bottom to the back of the boat.  Anchor it at the well scuppers (with a special bungee), and anchor it again at the rear (with another special bungee).  Even at a 1 inch height, it could provide a significant impediment to boat rotation, thereby improving tracking. Total cost less than $40.

But mostly 1 and 2.  Thankfully, big flat water is only 10 min away in Foster City Lagoon.