reinforcing Rear Hull

I load my Adventure onto the top of the camper shell of a 4X4 F150 via a set of Malone Seawings with the stinger load assist. Due to the height of the truck and length of the kayak I am starting to wear the rear hull under the rudder. Nowhere near a leak yet, but I want to catch it before it's too late.

I know some Ocean brand kayaks have replaceable skid plates in this area. Is there some sort of aftermarket skid plate people use on Hobies? If not, is there a "standard" way to repair the deep scrapes I'm making when loading?

No skidplate available.  Use JB Weld to cover the area or place a small piece of carpet under the end of it when you load.

+100 on the JB Weld. I tried Keelez tape before, but it made a hole when I dragged my kayak. It also peeled off after a season.

 

Isn't there a something called a "Keel guard" Strips of that could be placed as skid plates.  Or JB weld.
 
  I lay a towel down on the ground under the kayaks back so that when I lift the front to load onto my campershell, the back end drags on the towel, not ground.  I think on my last hull, I built up the very back end (Part that actually rubs) with hot glue to reinforce the scraping area.  I don't think I've done that on my current hull though.
 (  Sadly I don't use the kayak much at the moment)

JB Weld worked for me. I also use a yoga mat when loading and unloading to prevent scrapes to my car

Ok, JB Weld for the repair / reinforcement and a carpet for prevention.

Thanks guys!

 A small rubber shower mat also works and can support a healthy angle, even with the big boats.
Jackson boats also have a nice replaceable skid plate.

I copied Herb after I saw his JB Weld.  I need to redo it but it definitely helped while it lasted. I didnt prep properly the first time so it started to peal. 

Also, use your truck's floor mat as a pad. Works great and it's always with you

Jump to 10 mins.  I load mine on a Chevy Tahoe with Thule Glide and Set saddles. 
I wheel out it with a Hobie Heavy Duty Wheels to get in place.
I put a bathroom rug on the suv roof to prevent scratches. I use my wife's old yoga mat instead of a bean bag on ground so the stern / rudder area doesn't get scratched. 
Watch how he positions the yaks bow perpendicular to the rear wheel, about 3 feet on the trucks side.  When you lift up a good portion of your yak's bow is sitting on top of roof. 
Practice makes perfect. 

I load my Adventure onto the top of the camper shell of a 4X4 F150 via a set of Malone Seawings with the stinger load assist. Due to the height of the truck and length of the kayak I am starting to wear the rear hull under the rudder. Nowhere near a leak yet, but I want to catch it before it's too late.

I know some Ocean brand kayaks have replaceable skid plates in this area. Is there some sort of aftermarket skid plate people use on Hobies? If not, is there a "standard" way to repair the deep scrapes I'm making when loading?

This is a bombproof inexpensive keel guard for my Adventure. Section of large plastic barrel (polyethelene) heated with small propane torch and formed to fit keel. Two bike inner tubes to secure to hull. The plastic totally stops gouging of keel while loading or unloading and unlike a rug will slide nicely on pavement or gravel till right lift angle is reached.

That is a bombproof solution Charles. I wonder where I would be able to find a barrel now...

A few years ago I was researching how to repair a fiberglass canoe hull and came across a canoe rental company that coats the entire hull with roll on or spray on truck bed liner material. It sticks to the plastic or fiberglass and is very durable.  I didn't try it but have since wondered if it would be a good idea on the  keel line of my Hobie to protect it.  Particularly at the bow and stern.

it would create drag, but may work in a small area at the keel

I've been pulling a gunnysack over the end of my Stealth when I load

As far as repairing plastic the question has come up in the past about what works or not

The guy whose yak sank at Muir last year had had it into a shop for repair and was thinking the repair didn't hold, no way to know for sure since it's sitting on the bottom of the pacific

Watching it go down was an eye opener for sure, I was guesstimating 2 minutes but thinking back it was probably under a minute

Got me thinking about what really works as far as mending plastic, definitely worth taking seriously

You can also use ABS pipe and heat and mould for any projects like this.