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Topic: Refinishing a redwood deck  (Read 976 times)

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e2g

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Any advice on staining a deck without the the cleaner/brightener routine first?

my 15 year old deck was sanded down and stained with sunfrog about 3 years ago. It is starting to fade so I pressure washed it and was ready to slap a new layer on. While researching stains, seems everyone says I need to chemically clean then brighten the deck. Not sure if I really need to do that or if they are just trying to sell more product. Anyone just restained after pressure washing?
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Hojoman

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Why the need to brighten?


Great Bass 2

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Eugene

For a 15 year old redwood deck i would use Behr Deckover. They sell it at Home Depot. It goes on like paint but fills all the cracks. Be careful choosing the color because the red tinted ones are REALLY red.

Scott
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masterandahound

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Eugene

For a 15 year old redwood deck i would use Behr Deckover. They sell it at Home Depot. It goes on like paint but fills all the cracks. Be careful choosing the color because the red tinted ones are REALLY red.

Scott
Great suggestion. I used the textured Deckover several years ago on my GF's grandmother's beat up deck and it really did a nice job and has held up really well. Its definitely more like paint than stain as Scott said, but nobody fears walking on it with bare feet anymore and it comes in a wide range of colors. Good luck on the project !
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Mienboy

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Yep that's what I used after my daughter got a splinter.on another note beher has excellent customer  service
My biggest worry is that my wife(when I'm dead)will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it


zisco

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if you want to stain just use  a cabbots  stain  the more solids the longer it will last
they want you to clean it if you want to still use a semi transparent stain.
semi transparent will not last as long.
if you want a solid stain use the behr deck over  it will last you longer
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e2g

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thanks guys. The deck was sanded a few years ago and still smooth, no cracks. I did use a semi transparent stain, so that is probably why I need to do it again.  Zisco, if it is fairly clean can I just slap on another coating of semi transparent stain?
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zisco

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what you have to do is test  color.  and if you like it  then there is no need for cleaner
cleaner is just to make wood lighter.   have fun. :smt006
most durable stain i have used is callled  sunproof   it is an acrylic any other products you have to redo every couple of years
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Tote

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I always pressure washed it first, then followed with a very light sanding using a drywall sander, wiped it down, then stained it.
<=>


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A great way to brighten the deck wood, get rid of the gray, is to give it a dose of Oxalic Acid.  It is especially good to get rid of the black tannin stains from oak trees.

Amazon has it in powder form, mixes well with water.  Use a cheapo sprayer, spray on, let sit but not dry out, then hose off.  Easy as pie!!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJUT9X4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

5 POUNDS of the stuff is only $15 and free shipping. 

I picked up a pump-style garden sprayer from a thrift store for $5, but really; it will not harm your sprayer if you use it for other stuff later.  Just rinse it out.  Once mixed, it tastes about as acidic as a lemon.  It's safe for human consumption.  In fact; it's in food a lot.  Your body makes the stuff from Vitamin C.  Safe enough that there is no

I've sprayed it on redwood and cedar fences, then rinsed off.  Makes the fence look near-new, getting rid of the oxidized gray.  So easy!!  Doesn't hurt the surrounding plants either.

People put some down in their well to get rid of the iron stain in their water. 

Start with 1 cup per gallon of water.  Depending on how gray your deck wood is, maybe as little as one cup per 3 gallons of water.
 
It will remove rust as well.  I use it to de-rust metal motorcycle parts when I'm restoring motorcycles.  One table spoon per gallon of water along with the rusted part in a plastic bag.  Let sit for a few days and the rust is either gone, or will wipe off with a soft rag.   I've also used it on my fiberglass sided camper / RV.  Gets rid of the black without harming the finish. 
« Last Edit: June 27, 2015, 11:48:58 AM by Ski Pro 3 -- Jerry »


masterandahound

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-style garden sprayer from a thrift It's safe for human consumption.  In fact; it's in food a lot.  Your body makes the stuff from Vitamin C.
If you've ever eaten the herb/green Sorrel, high levels of oxalic acid is what gives it its super puckery, lemon-like flavor.
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e2g

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thanks for all the tips. Tried 2 small areas I had first with TWP redwood stain and learned a few things. One was unfinished, one was previously stained. In both cases, I needed to apply way less product. What doesnt soak in forms an oily spot that eventually flakes. When I tried staining some garden blocks after that, I used a rag to apply then wipe down around 10 minutes later. Worked out well. Saving the main deck until I finish all the other projects connected to the deck
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  • Location: Placerville
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I used a paint roller to apply oil stain, let sit for 10 or 15 minutes, then wipe with a rag.

DANGER!
Be sure do not leave rags in a pile and especially on the deck.  They will spontaneously ignite.  The oil will combine with the air and catch the rags on fire.  Had a friend loose his home this way.  Put all rags in a bucket of water or hang on the line to air dry and not in a heap. 


e2g

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I shoved them in an empty paint can and sealed. I guess that I made a bomb
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CGN-38

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 :smt006

  When the deck gets all pitted and scratched up again in a few years, look at "Restore" (Probably similar to Deckover) I slapped some of that Restore onto my deck (After replacing a few rotted boards) and the stuff dries like concrete!  The applicator they recommend for the stuff, paints the restore onto the deck like "Non-skid" paint! (Navy terminology) It will definitely protect anything it's painted on!


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