Getting Down: By DR, Weight, or Diver -Salmon Trolling Methods Pro/Con-

Trolling for Salmon is on my mind, and wanted to go over the pros and cons of each method of getting down to troll for them.  What is your preferred method and what do you like about it the most? What's your least favorite, and why?


Down-rigger:
PRO:
Most accurate method for getting to specific depth
Lets you fight the fish, without extra weight or drag
Use lighter rods and line

CON:
Most complicated method, requires bit of rigging, and setup
More gear, and longer time to reset
Line twist could be an issue


Sinker Release:
PRO: Simple to use and rig
Prevents line twist
Lets you fight the fish, without extra weight or drag

CON:
Depth Guesswork
Dropping lead = $$$
Long Leader Setup
Heavy rod needed


Dive Planer/Deep Six
PRO:
Somewhat accurate depth by using chart
Prevents line twist

CON:
Lots of drag (Rudder recommended)
Sort of complicated, long leader setup
Heavy rod needed

I'd add:

DR - potentially dangerous especially if trolling around a reef.

Sinker release - you can lose lead to rockfish/lingcod, or it may not release so it could cause the hook to pull.

DeepSix (my preference) - while drag is increased, I've never needed a rudder.  Don't need a chart to figure your depth once you're used to it.  Heavy rod not necessarily needed.

A fourth method everyone should consider - especially while in transit and/or over a reef that could snag you:  6 to 8 ounce banana weight with mooching slip rig for your chovy or herring - add a dodger if you want to.

Remember also that while 1.5 to 2 MPH is average for chinook salmon trolling, there are fish caught on a very slow troll as well as a faster than average pace.  The day after GS6 I was north of the Whistle with O2B when we heard on the radio that Bigfoot was fighting a Pac Hali just inshore of us.  We kept our trolling gear in the water and started hightailing it for Bigfoot and his crew.  Allen on his Hobie was giving me stats from his GPS.  He announced that I'd hit 3 MPH+ trolling my DeepSix setup, and right then I hooked up!  That was the fastest I've ever hooked up on the troll - because I never troll that fast!   

DR - potentially dangerous especially if trolling around a reef.

Or current rips, way back when I was trolling and hit a submerged kelp paddy that gave the boat a good pull down, probably would flipped a yak.  Be sure to adjust the drags on your DR so they're light enough to not knock you out of the boat if they get caught up. 

For trolling on the rivers and lakes, I've always used the Shuttle Hawk on the DR.

I'm curious if anyone had ever tried using the Shuttle Hawk for salmon in the ocean.

I'll be trying the Shuttle Hawk on my DR this year.

Sinker release - I don't like "trashing" the ocean. Lead is bad enough. Cost you money, too.

So for the "Lead Is Bad" argument, which I've seen a lot talk of with regard to Salmon:  I ask, do you feel the same way about other forms of lead, such as jig heads or irons?

Over the last few years I've relied on sinker releases and DD6 divers. I liked the DD6 for depths down to about 30-40 feet, but below that I felt like I was just taking a wild guess about how deep I was fishing.

As for dropping lead balls... I didn't lose any sleep over it, but INTENTIONALLY dropping lead in the ocean floor just didn't sit well with me. Yes I still unintentionally donate some lead gear to the ocean, but I don't do it on purpose any more.

This year I will be using a combo of DD6 and downrigger.

I have taken the DR to the lake for a few trial runs, and even got to play out the snagged DR ball scenario while the yak was rocking heavily from passing boat wakes. I had the DR ball a about 45 feet down and ran it into some rock. The ball stuck solidly and line started ripping from the DR with barely any extra force. There was no abrupt jarring action. I was able to quickly release the brake the rest of the way, pedal around in a loop and lift the ball free of the snag. It was a mildly stressful situation, but the concern was more about loosing gear than falling in the drink.

The Depthmaster's drag system worked exactly as designed. Just don't crank the brake down solidly. It only needs to grab strong enough to keep line from playing out while you troll.

I hear you about not wanting to intentionally drop lead, especially pounds of it.  But I would have to say that I have left my fair share of leadheads and irons down at the bottom of the ocean, but have never dropped any balls (yet).

As for snags;
For my DR, I use 150LB Braid, and I have it placed on my right hand side, just behind my seat.  If I snagged up and felt like that would put me in danger, my plan has been to grab my pfd knife and cut the line.  Should only take a second or two.

Take a guess about how many commercial 50# balls have been snagged and lost on the Tolo banks. Tons. Literally. Same as other reefy high spots. Better all the way around not to lose lead but what we add is miniscule.

I hear you about not wanting to intentionally drop lead, especially pounds of it.  But I would have to say that I have left my fair share of leadheads and irons down at the bottom of the ocean, but have never dropped any balls (yet).

As for snags;
For my DR, I use 150LB Braid, and I have it placed on my right hand side, just behind my seat.  If I snagged up and felt like that would put me in danger, my plan has been to grab my pfd knife and cut the line.  Should only take a second or two.

I keep one of these right by my downrigger just in case I have to cut the line.

I just feel better about not adding my proverbial drop to the bucket.

Lead is expensive, too. I don't even want to think about how much money I've thrown away over the last few years dropping balls for shaker lingcod, blacks, floating kelp chunks, general stupidity, etc, etc, etc.

I used a double deep when I first started or a circle hook if I needed to get deeper. Switched over to a DR setup after that so that I could control the depth without having to guess. The only downside is having to create a stable base to mount the DR. I'm also on a trimaran and it adds a few seconds in case I need to cut the line if it gets hung up. 

For the above diagram, salmon aren't line shy and you could bypass fluoro. I use 50# mono for leaders and even a bright pink salmon bungee.

I hear you about not wanting to intentionally drop lead, especially pounds of it.  But I would have to say that I have left my fair share of leadheads and irons down at the bottom of the ocean, but have never dropped any balls (yet).

As for snags;
For my DR, I use 150LB Braid, and I have it placed on my right hand side, just behind my seat.  If I snagged up and felt like that would put me in danger, my plan has been to grab my pfd knife and cut the line.  Should only take a second or two.

I keep one of these right by my downrigger just in case I have to cut the line.

That's a neat looking tool. I just keep my NRS knife clipped to my PFD for easy access. (This one)

Regarding the lead, I'm more concerned about the plastics dropped into the waters unintentionally (I hope), and I've lost my fair share. Pretty sure lead occurs naturally in the ocean, anyway. Plastic, not so much.

Good, discussion, Al. Been thinking about what method would work best for me - hoping to get out a little more this year.