Modifying Palmor Crab Traps

Chuck,

I enjoyed your "Kayak Crab Trapping" article last year and I've decided that this year I'm going to give traps a try.  I'm tired of constantly pulling up my ring traps every 15 min in 60-80 ft of water.  That and the fact that this year we'll have at least a month where I can set traps, fish for rockfish and come back for the traps makes them seem like a better solution.

Anyway, I wanted some more details on using the promar collapsable traps. 

Do you use the TR-101 or TR102 model?
Where and how do you "add 4-1/4” rigid escape rings to the Promar traps to make them legal according to CA DFG regs"? Do you just cut holes and then tie them on with "rotten cotton"?
Do you add weight to the traps to get them down, they seem a bit light?  If so, any details?
What about a bridal for the traps, or do you just tie you line straight to the trap?
Have you ever used the "Trap-ease" by Scotty?  If so is it worth the $30 or just something that gets in the way?


Once the season opens and I catch my first batch, I'll share my recipe for "Singapore Chile Crab".

Thanks,
Brian

Pulling 12 lbs of Danielson square traps was the hugest PITA on the yak, very akward pulling from the side(felt very tippy) and the line was hard to deal with.  Probably pretty dangerous if you took a dip. I think a short gaff and forward mounted trapeze aiming toward the bow of the yak would make things a ton safer and easier.

Do you use the TR-101 or TR102 model?

I use the Promar TR102.  The 101 is a bit too small.

Where and how do you "add 4-1/4” rigid escape rings to the Promar traps to make them legal according to CA DFG regs"? Do you just cut holes and then tie them on with "rotten cotton"?

I used 1/4" copper tubing to make the rings and zip-tied a ring one the the side of each opening.  Some "rotten cotten" string is wrapped on the bar opposing the latches.  This way I can hook the latches onto string to allow the trap to open and disable itself if it ever gets lost.

Do you add weight to the traps to get them down, they seem a bit light?  If so, any details?

I haven't found the need for additional weight since I use thin line and rarely drop my traps deeper that 50 feet.

What about a bridal for the traps, or do you just tie you line straight to the trap?

The TR102 has it's own bridal, but I often attach the trigger clip at the end of my line directly to the frame.

Have you ever used the "Trap-ease" by Scotty?  If so is it worth the $30 or just something that gets in the way?

Nope...it would just get in the way.

Brian.... if you haven't bought your traps yet.... you might want to consider Promar's clever new Eclipse Hoop Net.  It's legal for lobsters, looks as effective as a trap, and very portable.  I think they're only about $20.  The bug hunters down south love'em, but suppliers are having a hard time keeping them in stock.  I plan to buy a few to try out.

http://www.americanmaple.com/relaunchpromar/eclipse.html

Danielson makes their own rigid version of the Eclipse Hoop Net which is nice and stackable.  They go for $29 at Fishermans Warehouse.

However, rumor has it.... that the DFG is planning to ban them for use on lobsters because they're way too effective.

Thanks Chuck, that's exaclty what I wanted to know.  If you have any pictures of the escape ring mods, I'd love to see them.  Last year, I did some hoop netting, it worked but was way too much work.  I guess working in Bodega Bay, it's often just easier to buy crabs off the docks at wholesale prices.

I'll check out the new hoops.  I take it you deploy them open and then the crabs/lobster crawls up and over but can't crawl back out?

Brian

If you have any pictures of the escape ring mods, I'd love to see them.

Do you use the TR-101 or TR102 model?

I use the Promar TR102.  The 101 is a bit too small.

Where and how do you "add 4-1/4” rigid escape rings to the Promar traps to make them legal according to CA DFG regs"? Do you just cut holes and then tie them on with "rotten cotton"?

I used 1/4" copper tubing to make the rings and zip-tied a ring one the the side of each opening.  Some "rotten cotten" string is wrapped on the bar opposing the latches.  This way I can hook the latches onto string to allow the trap to open and disable itself if it ever gets lost.

Do you add weight to the traps to get them down, they seem a bit light?  If so, any details?

I haven't found the need for additional weight since I use thin line and rarely drop my traps deeper that 50 feet.

What about a bridal for the traps, or do you just tie you line straight to the trap?

The TR102 has it's own bridal, but I often attach the trigger clip at the end of my line directly to the frame.

Have you ever used the "Trap-ease" by Scotty?  If so is it worth the $30 or just something that gets in the way?

Nope...it would just get in the way.

Brian.... if you haven't bought your traps yet.... you might want to consider Promar's clever new Eclipse Hoop Net.  It's legal for lobsters, looks as effective as a trap, and very portable.  I think they're only about $20.  The bug hunters down south love'em, but suppliers are having a hard time keeping them in stock.  I plan to buy a few to try out.

http://www.americanmaple.com/relaunchpromar/eclipse.html

Chuck - let me know if you place, let me know.

Anyone seen or used the model 302 ? Cabelas is stocking Promar, and the XL folding trap is half the price of the collapsible trap.

Scott