Downrigger questions

I ordered a scotty laketroller. I'd like to get it set up in time for the BSS. I've never used or even seen a downrigger used. I've been reading past articles  to learn what I can.

Some people put them in from and some put them behind their seat. Does it matter if your rod is in front of the weight, or do you have to put the rod behind the downrigger?

I have a tarpon 120 with slidetrax. Can the slidetrax hold the weight and stress of a downrigger? 

I see online I can order things like snubbers. I don't know what is recomended when using a downrigger on a kayak. What is the normal way to rig it when freshwater fishing? (I plan on using a shuttlehawk)

Do you set it up differently for salmon in saltwater?

If you use one on your kayak, what has experience taught you to do, or not to do? Thanks

I prefer it behind me. Kayak runs straighter with the weight further back.  I have not tested on the slide trax. If you do try the slide trax I would use the mount for the Scotty base base sold by Yak Attack.  It will give you more support than any other mounts in the Trax. The shuttle hawk is nice, but I personally did not like it. Never gave it a real fair test though. My DR is mounted behind the seat where the rod holder is in this pick.

I prefer it behind me. Kayak runs straighter with the weight further back.  I have not tested on the slide trax. If you do try the slide trax I would use the mount for the Scotty base base sold by Yak Attack.  It will give you more support than any other mounts in the Trax. The shuttle hawk is nice, but I personally did not like it. Never gave it a real fair test though. My DR is mounted behind the seat where the rod holder is in this pick.

If the DR is behind you, does it work if the pole is in front of you? I hope the shuttle hawk works. I imagine with it I can lower the DR while sitting still and attach my line and let the hawk take it down without those line tangle, keep paddling while working the DR problems.

I prefer it behind me. Kayak runs straighter with the weight further back.  I have not tested on the slide trax. If you do try the slide trax I would use the mount for the Scotty base base sold by Yak Attack.  It will give you more support than any other mounts in the Trax. The shuttle hawk is nice, but I personally did not like it. Never gave it a real fair test though. My DR is mounted behind the seat where the rod holder is in this pick.

If the DR is behind you, does it work if the pole is in front of you? I hope the shuttle hawk works. I imagine with it I can lower the DR while sitting still and attach my line and let the hawk take it down without those line tangle, keep paddling while working the DR problems.

I have been doing it that way for 5 years with no problems. I paddle a little and let the amount of line out that I need, then hook to the clip, start moving a bit and then let the DR down. Works fine.

I like the shuttle hawk because you can just leave your downrigger weight down all day.  I never retrieve mine the entire day.

Couple of things about the shuttle hawk:
1. you need tension in the line for the hawk to dive.  the best way to do that is to keep paddling and either put on a really loose drag while its diving or a really strong magnetic control on your baitcaster.  It's easier for me because I'm in a hobie so I can control the rod and release and keep moving.

2. You need speed to make the hawk come back up.  If you're not moving, the hawk will just slowly sink.  So once you release your clip, the hawk will start climbing due to water tension.

3. Rod position does not matter.  you're using a downrigger clip so it won't make a difference.  The only thing you need to imagine is how the line comes off the clip and make sure it will clear the downrigger line.  I fish my rods forward and my downrigger behind me.

So in summary, if you can't keep moving, the hawk will not be as useful to you.  Again, I love the hawk, but its primarily because I'm in a hobie and I've got all three hands free to work.

Other questions:

1. I'm not sure about the slidetrax.  I don't know how strong it is compared to the geartrac, but on my new kayak I'm planning to do GT90 geartrac with two mighty mounts to the scotty mount.  But I'm doing a full backing on my geartrac. 

2.  A snubber would be recommended especially if you're new to using a downrigger.  There's a lot of things you could do wrong to break off the weight and a snubber will help with those.

Also I would greatly recommend you do a shakedown cruise with the downrigger before worrying about fishing rods. 

I like the shuttle hawk because you can just leave your downrigger weight down all day.  I never retrieve mine the entire day.

Couple of things about the shuttle hawk:
1. you need tension in the line for the hawk to dive.  the best way to do that is to keep paddling and either put on a really loose drag while its diving or a really strong magnetic control on your baitcaster.  It's easier for me because I'm in a hobie so I can control the rod and release and keep moving.

2. You need speed to make the hawk come back up.  If you're not moving, the hawk will just slowly sink.  So once you release your clip, the hawk will start climbing due to water tension.

3. Rod position does not matter.  you're using a downrigger clip so it won't make a difference.  The only thing you need to imagine is how the line comes off the clip and make sure it will clear the downrigger line.  I fish my rods forward and my downrigger behind me.

So in summary, if you can't keep moving, the hawk will not be as useful to you.  Again, I love the hawk, but its primarily because I'm in a hobie and I've got all three hands free to work.

I understand you need to be moving for the hawk to work. It's got to be easier than dealing with both the DR and your pole while paddling. Follow the same procedure that you use after catching a fish. Drop the weight to the right depth/or it is already down there. Paddle up to speed, attach your line to the hawk and start paddling again. If you can do that after catching a fish you should be able to start out that way as well.

I prefer it behind me. Kayak runs straighter with the weight further back.  I have not tested on the slide trax. If you do try the slide trax I would use the mount for the Scotty base base sold by Yak Attack.  It will give you more support than any other mounts in the Trax. The shuttle hawk is nice, but I personally did not like it. Never gave it a real fair test though. My DR is mounted behind the seat where the rod holder is in this pick.

If the DR is behind you, does it work if the pole is in front of you? I hope the shuttle hawk works. I imagine with it I can lower the DR while sitting still and attach my line and let the hawk take it down without those line tangle, keep paddling while working the DR problems.

I'll have to try reaching to those areas without turning around and see what it is like.

I have been doing it that way for 5 years with no problems. I paddle a little and let the amount of line out that I need, then hook to the clip, start moving a bit and then let the DR down. Works fine.

I will have to try reaching those areas and see how it feels.

I love the shuttle hawk!!!! My dr is mounted to my crate. With my rod mounted forward on a track sys. The shuttle hawk takes a while to get right but once you do you'll love it. As bmb pointed out it needs tension. I set my spool tension so when I'm letting out my set back it slowly pulls line. I run an abu 4600c3 with a clicker. Simply clip the line to the shuttle hawk turn on the clicker and down she goes. If your tension is to loose the drag from your line in the water will keep taking line and you won't know when the shuttle hawk has reached the bottom to tight and it won't dive or will keep pulling the line from the release. To get the hawk to dive you need your rod tip to be inline with the dr. If your rod tip is out to the side it won't dive. I adjust my rod holder staight up to get it to dive then point it to the side after it's down. If you use scotty rod holders the slip disk are great for this.
 Also the release that comes on a shuttle hawk are a pain. Some people like them I hate them. I would suggest a sepps or scotty around 18" long. That way your line will enter the water farther back to help keep it clear of you paddle stoke,and when your clipping in your line you can have the clip in your lap.   

My problem with the Shuttle Hawk was when I try to put any tension on the line it pulls the Hawk up. I can never get enough tension on my line to feel comfortable. I use an ultra light Koke rod and get no bend in it before it pulls the Hawk up. Any suggestions. I would like to use the SH for ease.

My problem with the Shuttle Hawk was when I try to put any tension on the line it pulls the Hawk up. I can never get enough tension on my line to feel comfortable. I use an ultra light Koke rod and get no bend in it before it pulls the Hawk up. Any suggestions. I would like to use the SH for ease.

I have the same prob and I found that when I switched out the release and got a scotty release it solved the prob

Maybe the release idk mine will double over the rod and pop the line from the clip before it lifts the hawk. Or maybe for some reason it has to do with braid? I'm running steel cable

I have steel cable, a Scotty release, and just don't know. I will work with it this year and get it figured out, just like everything else I do.

I love the shuttle hawk!!!!

Do you use cable or braid on your downrigger?

I use downriggers on my boat but not my yak.  I like the snubbers for the fact that it is easier to grab the snubber than the wire.