Has anyone added a bulkhead connector to transducer?

Has anyone tried adding a connector to the transducer cable and how did it work out?

My kayak fleet has grown to a Revo and a Torque.  (Before receiving the wrath of the true paddle only guys, I do still enjoy paddling but a medical condition would cut my trips short.)  Anyway I'm collecting too many gadgets and want to easily transfer my Humminbird FF between boats.  My thought is to permanently install a transducer in each yak and add waterproof bulkhead connectors.  Alternatively I could buy a second mount but that is not my preference.  If going with the connector route I would shorten the transducer cable to a reasonable length.

I have a wet mount transducer that can easily be removed and transferred.

I have 4" PVC adhered to the hull of my yak then get a 4" cap and attach the transducer to the cap. Cut a small X into the cap and slide the cable through. Seal the cable whole fill the 4" PVC cup with water slide cap over cup and tighten pipe clamp.

Everything I have always read says DO NOT cut the transducer wire. It hs something to do with the length and frequency of the wire. I have HB units and a different mount on all 4 boats. I can use whichever unit I decide to on any boat of mine.  Same principle as you using same unit on different boat. If you are using a different ducer on each boat, just coil up the extra and tuck away.

Everything I have always read says DO NOT cut the transducer wire. It hs something to do with the length and frequency of the wire. I have HB units and a different mount on all 4 boats. I can use whichever unit I decide to on any boat of mine.  Same principle as you using same unit on different boat. If you are using a different ducer on each boat, just coil up the extra and tuck away.

Yeah that.

-Allen

.....and remember to keep the coil at least 8" in diameter and AWAY from a compass (if you have one installed).  To my understanding, it is not the length of the cable that is the issue with cutting, it's ensuring the quality of the splice you will make in re-connecting the transducer wire.  It's just bad practice, imho.

~Bill

Never knew the 8" thing.

I have to check the 8" thing on mine but it seems to work okay.

Never knew the 8" thing.

I vaguely remember at one time the manufacturers of the transducers recommend a min 4" bend radius to the cables.  That may no longer be the case as I cannot find any documentation that supports that.  As for coiling, do keep the coil away from electrical wires & compass still.

Mine is coiled tighter. I can see very small weights on my line at 60+ FOW.

I have to check the 8" thing on mine but it seems to work okay.

What type of adhesive did you use to secure the PVC pipe to the hull? 

~Bill

Mine is coiled tighter. I can see very small weights on my line at 60+ FOW.

Yep mines about 4" and works just fine.

Mine is coiled tighter. I can see very small weights on my line at 60+ FOW.

Yep mines about 4" and works just fine.

In re-checking with the transducer guys ... they just state "no sharp bends" or "kinking" now.  Guess I just hung onto my "old ways" too long... 

I used RTV silicone and it seems to be holding just fine. But if it fails I will reattach with 3m 5200 marine rapid set adhesive.

I've always kept 5200 as a "lest resort" due to the "permanent" factor.  I might give that idea a try with goop or duct seal.  I had the same concept idea.  Glad to see others did too....

~Bill

Mine is coiled tighter. I can see very small weights on my line at 60+ FOW.

Yep mines about 4" and works just fine.

In re-checking with the transducer guys ... they just state "no sharp bends" or "kinking" now.  Guess I just hung onto my "old ways" too long...

Yeah, no kinking.  Kinking bad.  DAMHIK.   

-Allen