kokanee trolling out of a kayak

Thank you all for the input and info!  Heading up to little grass valley reservoir in two weeks and i want to be ready for them.

Well then, you need to know about shoepeg corn. It's the secret ingredient.  One kernel of shoepag, no other corn will do, and you'll get strikes IF you are putting your lure in front of them. 
Remember too; koke's have soft mouths and I loose at least 25% at the net because of it. 

I can see the thermocline on my Humminbird 768 too. I can actually see a 1/8 oz weight at 60+ feet on my HB. My ducer is in hull too with external temp.

Looks like I will be heading back to the tackle store ,the down rigger is the way to go .  Any opinions as to a good mounting location on the kayak for the down rigger ?

I've caught them on lead core, and even straight mono, no downrigger. They are shallower at cooler times of the year and first thing in the morning.

Matt

I have mine mounted behind me to the right. I think the further to the rear is better so it does not pull as hard sideways.  A lot of guys mount it in front, but the cable/weight drag will pull harder sideways. I just reach back to my right and reel up or down. No need to look once I got used to it there.

I also run mine behind me. I have it mounted to my crate so I didn't have to drill. If you mount to a crate move the mount as close to the center as you can without the cable hitting the side of your boat. This will cut down on a lot of drag.

My cable clears the side of the boat by less than 1/2"

I have mine mounted behind me to the right. I think the further to the rear is better so it does not pull as hard sideways.  A lot of guys mount it in front, but the cable/weight drag will pull harder sideways. I just reach back to my right and reel up or down. No need to look once I got used to it there.

+1


A couple ways to mount it on the Trident behind the seat are...

1) With a Scotty #253 Gimbal mount in the rear rod holder behind the seat paired with the #1073 Laketroller without the #241 mount. This is how I have mine.

-Advantages - There are no permanent mounts on the kayak, its right behind the seat for easy access.

-Disadvantages- The stock flush mount rod holder flexes a little ( I fixed this with a polyethylene backing plate on the stock rod holder and replaced the well nuts with solid SS hardware...Its rock hard now).

2) With the #241 mount on the flat spot behind the rear rod holder.

-Advantages- Its a little farther back than the rod holder.

-Disadvantages- You have a permanent raised Scotty mount attached to the kayak at all times that can get in the way.
-Additional holes in the kayak.
-No way to put an additional backing plate for the flex.
-You have to reach back farther

3) With the #244 flush mount on the flat spot behind the rear rod holder

-Advantages- Its a little farther back than the rod holder.
-It is flush mounted.

-Disadvantages- You have a permanent Scotty mount attached to the kayak.
-Additional holes in the kayak.
-No way to put an additional backing plate for the flex.
-You have to reach back farther

4) On a crate/Plano box with either a #449 clamp or a #241 mount
-Advantages- There are no permanents mount to the kayak.

-Disadvantages- You have to have the crate or/ plano box on the kayak whenever you're trolling.
-It farther behind the center of the seat than the other two options.


Overall its really up to personal preference but this gives you a couple options to look at an make a decision. If you want to look at option one I have mine I can bring and you can try out next time we fish.

Nobody reads these things and remembers.

I run the micro but some run full size.

thanks Rob ...hey did I ever ask you what size flashers you ran on your Dr weight....hahajk 

The gimbal mount sounds good ,easy on and off . Readily accessible is nice on the water . Sounds like I have a nice homework project.

The gimbal mount sounds good ,easy on and off . Readily accessible is nice on the water . Sounds like I have a nice homework project.

Put it on and if there is more flex than you want put a backing plate on the rod holder and change out the hardware. Taps Plastic on Auburn Blvd. has the High Density Polyethylene scrap for $0.50- $1.00 each. Here's what mine looks like, it follows the contours of the kayak and clears the molded eyelets.