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Topic: DIY: MOTORIZED KAYAK PROJECT  (Read 2151 times)

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wlshafor

  • Salmon
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  • Warren
  • Colorblind Designs
  • Location: Austin TX
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 407
Add power to your paddle craft.

This set up was designed specifically for my KC Kayak, but can be rigged to any stable “stand-up” kayak that allows the installation of a swivel seat. Adding a motor and battery adds A LOT of weight to the kayak and should be done only to kayaks that can support the extra weight.

Watch the video, here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=4zyR8OmJIBM

Or read the step-by-step below.
Seat Side Motor Head Controls Set-Up

Step 1: Disconnecting the Wires
Remove the screws from the bottom of the motor head and remove the top half. Disconnect the wires from the control switch. There will be a total of 6 wires, 2 for the battery and 4 that will run down the shaft. The control switch should indicate the wire colors for easy reference later. Keep the screws.

Step 2: Removing the Motor Head
Unscrew the bolt that connects the motor head to the shaft. Remove the motor head. You should be left with 4 wires hanging out the top of the motor shaft. Keep the nuts and bolts.

Step 3: Extending the Wires
Measure the ideal length from where the motor will be mounted to where you will place the controls. Purchase wires in the same gauge and color as the original wires. Purchase 4 sets (male and female) of disconnects that match the wire gauge. Cut your wires to length, add an extra foot for slack (just incase). Attach male dicconnectors to one end the wires and attach females to the other end.

Step 4: Reconnecting Wires
Connect the new wires to the wires on the shaft. For an easier build you can keep the existing head as the control and mount it to your liking. I’ve seen people use a Scotty Rod holder. For a more compact controls, you can place the controls in an outdoor grade electrical box, drill holes into a blank face plate and use a knob of you choice (half circle connection) or keep the twist control. (Looking back I would have kept the original motor head.) Reconnect the four wires to the controls. Reconnect the original battery wires. Connect to battery and test your wiring skills.
If you have a rudder system on your kayak or do not need hands-free steering, up can stop here.
Mounting Your Motor

My KC Kayak came with a V-Lock Universal Mounting System. I replaced the 90-degree insert with a flat insert and attached a hinge to it. I attached a wood block to the hinge. The hinge allows your motor to give and pop up if it hits sand or rocks and reduces stress to kayak attachment point. How you mount the motor, will ultimately depend on your kayak. The V-Lock may be a good option if your kayak doesn’t have a place to attach a trolling motor and you have access to bolt it in from the inside.

Learn more at Rex's blog:
http://ilivelive.com/index.php/2013/04/diy-hands-free-steering-motor-for-kayak/

COPIED FROM:
https://rapidmedia.com


wlshafor

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Warren
  • Colorblind Designs
  • Location: Austin TX
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 407


wlshafor

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Warren
  • Colorblind Designs
  • Location: Austin TX
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 407


wlshafor

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Warren
  • Colorblind Designs
  • Location: Austin TX
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 407
Tapatalk app on my iPhone is not allowing me fully upload images sorry about this I hope they have a fix/update soon.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2013, 04:40:05 PM by wlshafor »


wlshafor

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Warren
  • Colorblind Designs
  • Location: Austin TX
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 407


HamachiJohn

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  • Location: San Ramon; Santa Clara
  • Date Registered: Sep 2009
  • Posts: 2781
Ncka bros got skilz... thx for sharing

Peace & blessings!

Down to 1 Hobie Revo...


 

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