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Topic: Light duty chainsaw recommendations  (Read 1938 times)

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polepole

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I had a tree fall in the neighboring lot over my fence line by about 10'.  The lot if vacant so I have no real choice except to clear it myself (or have it cleared myself).  So, I find myself looking for recommendations on a light duty chainsaw.  I thought about renting or buying, but I will have other uses for this thing that would justify me buying one.  I've kind of been looking at some of the 40V cordless options out there, although I really have no idea what I'm looking for.  The thought of a corded chainsaw just does't sit well as I have to go over a fence and through a rather brushy area.  That thing will just tangle.  And I'm not sure I need to step up to gas, although if there is a good value small gas chainsaw that is mostly maintenance free, I'd consider it too.  Let's hear it ... what are some good options for me?

-Allen


Fish Master1

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There's many good brands out there and most everyone has an opinion on the best.

I have a cheap (relatively) Poulan with a 42cc gas engine and 18" blade that serves me fine for brush and tree clearing, occasional firewood cutting, etc.

Look for 40cc or larger engines - smaller than that they are underpowered and finicky - the tiniest impurity in your gas mix will choke them.

Most importantly, as minimum safety requirements, get a full face safety shield and wear proper workboots.

Also look at the emission control hours anything under 300 will give you problems in the near future.. You will notice all chainsaws are stamped with the emission control ratings which basically means hours tested before problems accur..  :smt006 Hope this helps.

Also FYI the first was copied and pasted from web.
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Mr.Matt

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+1 on the Poulan

But if you think you are going to ever need a bigger one go with a Stihl or a Husky (husquevarna)
Sorry if I misspelled.


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KayakJames

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I have the same one as fm1 only it's a craftsman but I'm pretty sure it's made by the same manufacturer. If you just need to do a small job let me know you can borrow mine for your cleaning then you'll know if its what u need
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I went through this a few years ago, but I was looking at a couple of trees over 1.5' diameter. Most of my saw work is on logs under 1' dia.

I used a Craftsman electric until it burned up.(it was free so no loss)
I got a Poulan as my first gas saw because it was inexpensive, used it for about 4 years until it died. I could not get service for it, and after talking to two comm'l tree guys they both said "oh, the Poulans are disposable". :smt044
One guy even had a story about how Poulan saws can "almost" fly, if they are pitched from a bucket 30ft in the air. :smt005

I now have a husquevarna 440e 18" bar that works great BUT...........if I had it to do over I would go for a similar sized Stihl, since a good friend is now in the business of rebuilding Stihls. Having considered buying one from him I've been looking at a number of their saws and they are solid but they are spendy.
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JJQ

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I lived in Big Sur for years and have cut more than my share of trees.

For light duty you can't beat this saw

 http://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Chain-Saws/CS-341

I have one and I also have a larger Husqvarna 55 that is awesome! 



polepole

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Maybe going in the wrong direction here.  I got a lot of smaller branches to cut.  I'm not going to clear the whole tree, just the top 10 feet of a fallen 40 foot tree.  All smaller branches (<5" I think) but a lot of them.  I don't think I need anything bigger than that Poulan.  And I'm not going to work that thing that hard.  Well, maybe for the first day.  I actually think a 40cc 18" saw may be well more than what I need, but again, I really don't know, so keep the suggestions and input coming.

-Allen
« Last Edit: January 15, 2013, 10:53:33 AM by polepole »


Dale L

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After my Dad's finicky mculloch pissed me off I got a cheap $50 electric a few years ago, (remmington= no name?) and I've been amazed at what I've been able to do with it.  Of course it can't leave the yard but I have a good 100 ft cord.  Sliced and diced allot of stuff up to 8' with it (all green wood not dry). I bought it to take down a 40yr old apricot tree that had suddenly died.  I figured it would be worth it even if only last for one job but it just keeps on ticking.  Keep the blade lubed and make sure not to hit anything abrasive with like hitting the dirt, that will dull the teeth almost instantly.


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I use chainsaws a lot, cutting anywhere from 5 to 7 cords of firewood a season.  I have a class B Sawyer's License and keep it current with refresher training every other year.  Here's some things to consider;

First, chainsaws are FAR from maintenance free.  They require a lot of maintenance. Within a couple hours, you will need to sharpen the chain.  Sooner if you let the chain touch dirt.  Dirt will dull a chain faster than anything out there.  This will require a good file of the correct size.  (Chainsaw chains come in many link sizes as well as tooth spacings.)  Chainsaws are 2-stroke engines that require a mix of oil and fuel at the right proportions.  The fuel needs to be fresh; less than 2 weeks old.  That means you are going to either toss a lot of mix, or run your saw a lot.  I will work in other small gas engines like a lawn mower, but don't put it in a car.  They have too many computers, cat converters, etc, that will be damaged with contaminated fuel like 2-stroke mix.  You'll need a separate gas can and never get it mixed up with the straight gas or you will destroy the chainsaw motor.   You will also need special bar lube and if it's a manual pump, remember to keep the bar lubed by pumping the lever.  There are several safety features on a chainsaw that you need to be proficient at understanding and using.  Most important is the brake.  Knowing how to stop a spinning chain while you are tripping over a hidden limb or when the chain kicks back and tries to take your face off is pretty important. It needs to be instinctual, muscle memory, or you'll not be quick enough.  Adjusting the chain tension, learning how to start with the choke, etc. are very important to safe use.   For example; never try to start a chainsaw while holding it in one hand and yanking on the cord with the other.  Always start it on the ground, a foot in the handle, the other hand on the top grip, the brake engaged, the choke on, the fuel bulb primed, the on/off switch on, compression release activated, then tug the rope pull handle.  Whew!! 

Safety equipment; the less experienced you are, the more likely you will engage the safety equipment you should be wearing.  Chainsaw chaps, a hardhat with a face guard and hearing protection, heavy gloves are the minimum and will cost about $130 for those items.  Same for anyone within reach that is helping you, pulling out the cut material.  (That's called 'swamping' by the way.  A swamper is the guy who clears the cut limbs from a felled tree.  A bucker bucks the tree trunk into logs, a feller drops the tree to the ground.) 

Well, in a nutshell, it's very dangerous and I would not recommend to anyone with limited experience to go out and buy a chainsaw and start whacking away on a tree.  Too many people are hurt and it's just not worth the risk in my opinion. 

I would recommend; for a job such as yours, use a hand saw.  There are many fine saws out there and many have a long bar to reach into that canopy you are whittling down.  Or, find a buddy who does know how to use the saw and has the equipment to do it right and safe.  Springing for some beers and a steak dinner is much cheaper and safer than going at it alone if you aren't experienced. 

I'm not trying to be a know-it-all or smack talk anyone.  I care about all you kayak guys and just don't want to see anyone get hurt.  Go into this with your eyes wide open. 


****EDIT****
Here's a good hand saw for a decent price.  I have one of these and it rips through a 10" branch almost as fast as a chainsaw;

http://www.amazon.com/Corona-Clipper-21-Inch-RS-7160/dp/B00221Q3GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1358276011&sr=1-2&keywords=tree+saw


Read the reviews on this saw and you'll see it is well received.

« Last Edit: January 15, 2013, 10:59:37 AM by skipro3 »


Squidder K

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For small light stuff, I break out my cordless Sawzall with a rough cut blade, it makes short work of any branch under 2-4 inches in diameter.  After that it takes some going, but it will do it.
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I use chainsaws lots (we heat our house with self cut oak), and need to cut down pondo pines on occasion.  I have owned craftsman, husqvarna, and Stihl.  Stihl is by far the best brand I have owned.  I currently have 2 Stihls, a 70cc with 32inch bar, and a 30cc with a 12inch bar.  Both are rock solid.

..and what skipro3 said.  If you walk into our local urgent care center on a weekend evening in the fall or spring, you are more than likely to see a chainsaw injury.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2013, 11:18:32 AM by ATD »
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Otter

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I use chainsaws lots (we heat our house with self cut oak), and need to cut down pondo pines on occasion.  I have owned craftsman, husqvarna, and Stihl.  Stihl is by far the best brand I have owned.  I currently have 2 Stihls, a 70cc with 32inch bar, and a 30cc with a 12inch bar.  Both are rock solid.

X2 I grew up cutting firewood for our family and to make side money on the weekends as well. After running a couple huskies to death I started using Stihl and never looked back. Great product.

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Fish Master1

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Alan I purchased this chainsaw for 150 bucks and it cut through these logs in minutues, check your local Hayward lumber there was A sale on them this week.
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FishingForTheCure

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I have numerous chainsaws including the same Poulan Andy has shown, an Echo, Stihl, McCoulough, Husky, electric, etc...  I like the small Stihl for limbing & climbing, the Stihl is a workhorse (needs a tune up though), the Poulan has been nothing but problems for me since day 1 and the McCoulough & Husky are BEASTS!  If you are only looking for 1 small job or occasional, maybe renting is the best option so someone else can handle the maintenance.  If you want a good investment, spend the extra money & get a Stihl.  For value, the Poulan or Echo are good choices but may/will require a little more maintenance, maybe. 


polepole

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I took skipros advice and broke out the handsaw.  After a day of hacking the branches off the fence, I reached the limits of what I can easily do.  Unfortunately there are a number of branches that I can't reach unless I go back to the main trunk.  Anyone in the South Bay with a chainsaw want to earn a six pack and a steak?

-Allen