where to put transducer on hobie mirage sport.

i just recently purchased a new ff for my sport , and seeing as how there is only the rear scupper holes, i don't want to block one of them with my transducer or i wont be able to wheel it around .. whats the deal with mounting it inside the yak as opposed to under the yak? will it still work the same? thanks!

An option that some people don't think of is the Mad frog Liberator. Check it out.

http://madfroggear.com/liberator/liberator.html

Depending on what fish finder you got I would use one of the hobie install kits. Every thing you need is included. You could also just get a foam block. Goop it to the hull. You set the transducer inside the block and toss a hand full of water on top when you launch. Mounting it inside is fine and the preferred method for most FF installs

 

  If you go by the foam block method, ensure the transducer has a clear shot to the hull, (No foam below the transducer) Air pockets in the foam will disrupt the signal.

Depending on what fish finder you got I would use one of the hobie install kits. Every thing you need is included. You could also just get a foam block. Goop it to the hull. You set the transducer inside the block and toss a hand full of water on top when you launch. Mounting it inside is fine and the preferred method for most FF installs

why do you need to throw a handful of water on it when i launch?

 

  The transducer has to be submerged in order to operate.  The ultrasonic pulses won't travel through an "Air void" or pockets of air (As in foam)  Water in the cup thats holding the transducer, as long as the level is over the transducer will ensure no air is below the transducer.  The ultrasonic pulses will travel through the water in the cup and through the kayak hull with little problem.

You can also fill the foam block with goop (ensure there are no air bubbles in the goop) and plunge the transducer into it.  Once it sets up, it is a permanent good to go deal.  You will never need to put water in it, but I'm not sure if you get quite as good a signal.  Mine is done this way, as it is how I was told to do it.  When I upgrade FF's I will probably look into a different method, and see if there is any difference in signal quality. 

I used to use the water filled foam block but recently switched to the "gooped" in method.  The signal is very good and I never have to deal with the issue of forgetting to add the water before I launch.  It's just one less thing to have to do before getting on the water. Both methods work well so IMHO it's just a matter of personal preference. 

 

  Should you choose to "Goop" the transducer in, make sure the goop is fully cured befor you turn on the FF.  If the goop is not fully dried the ultra sonic pulses will "Boil" the goop, causing air bubbles to form in the goop.  These air bubbles created will mess up the signal and drive you crazy!

  Should you choose to "Goop" the transducer in, make sure the goop is fully cured befor you turn on the FF.  If the goop is not fully dried the ultra sonic pulses will "Boil" the goop, causing air bubbles to form in the goop.  These air bubbles created will mess up the signal and drive you crazy!

Really? Crazy... dang, for the life of me I cant remember if I did that or not.

I used to use the water filled foam block but recently switched to the "gooped" in method.  The signal is very good and I never have to deal with the issue of forgetting to add the water before I launch.  It's just one less thing to have to do before getting on the water. Both methods work well so IMHO it's just a matter of personal preference. 

It's nice to hear that it doesn't make a big difference from someone with actual experience.  I have never felt that my FF performed real well, but it is also a cheapo model.  I really want to make the jump to color screen and gps functionality. 

I use a Garmin with a color screen.  The upside in terms of visibility is huge but the downside is battery life.  I haven't tried to get multiple days of use on a charge of my 7.5AH sealed lead battery yet but it holds up well for a full day of fishing.  I'm pretty sure I could get at least 2 days on a charge.

 

  I've done silicon, and some crap called Lexel,  the lexel let go and I found my transducer hanging inside my hull 3" off from where I "Glued" it,  I now use the "Wet bath" hving to pour a little water in the "Cup" is worth it for me, just knowing that my transducer is going to work at full capacity in the water.
  Also, I don't have to worry about knocking the transducer loose or off it's goop when I load the front hatch.  If you knock it off when gooped, if you don't any glue with you, your gonna have to hang the transducer over the side and hope for the best.

I have an upside down tupperware container gooped over the top to protect it but I agree it wouldn't be a good thing or an easy fix if it got knocked loose from the goop. 

I've used the foam block with water and gooped in foam block on the same lowrance x4pro unit on two different boats, and I noticed a difference. The water and foam block wouldn't produce a black bar across the top of the screen. Also with the gooped method the 200khz setting would often loose the bottom and freak out. I just finished an install for a customer with a liberator arm and a DSI unit. The liberator arm is a nice way to go.

opps, is there any way to reverse the marine goop to go back to a liquid? hahahahaha