Making jigs for GS6

Painting some jigs for GS6 figured I would show my process. Each image shows a different step in the painting process, even though some don't look that way.

Ryan

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Ryan,

What is your target species for these jigs?

Antonio

Sweet looking...you just making for use or are you selling them...either way they look fishy to me

What is your target species for these jigs?

The general RGC complex and lings. Though they mostly catch rock fish.

Sweet looking...you just making for use or are you selling them...either way they look fishy to me

Probably a little of both  we will see how many I have by the time GS6 rolls around, its getting close.

Ryan

What is your target species for these jigs?

The general RGC complex and lings. Though they mostly catch rock fish.

Sweet looking...you just making for use or are you selling them...either way they look fishy to me

Probably a little of both  we will see how many I have by the time GS6 rolls around, its getting close.

Ryan

Kewel Ryan would love to try one out...whats the weight???

Kewel Ryan would love to try one out...whats the weight???

They are 4oz and 6oz should be roughly 50/50. To get them to pour correctly is a pain, so the 4oz don't always come out right and I have to redo them.

Kewel Ryan would love to try one out...whats the weight???

They are 4oz and 6oz should be roughly 50/50. To get them to pour correctly is a pain, so the 4oz don't always come out right and I have to redo them.

nice weight...

Nice job on the jigs Ryan.

Looks like you went to Costco for your vise grips.

Looks like you went to Costco for your vise grips.

  Lowes $1 tool bin thing

Nice looking shad spoons dude. You doing the paint in powder coat and if not what top coat are you using? Looks great man.

What specifically happens with the 4oz cavity in relation to crappy pours? I have like 10 or so of the do-it molds and they all pour great with a few tricks. First is Frankfurt arsenal casting release spray. It's basically non-stick graphite spray that aides in the removal of the casting from the mold and helps make complete pours. Another trick that really helps is taking a torch and heating the wire while it sits in the mold until it glows and then pouring. Hot wires mean less voiding. Yet another way I make a mold pour is heating the actual mold until I can barely hold in it welding gloves. The paint will bubble on the wood handle when it's too hot. If none of these things have an effect another more drastic method is indexing/gapping the mold slightly with something thin and flame resistant like foil. The gap will allow excess hot gas to vent that is likely voiding the pour. The gap will cuase much more flashing though which will need to be cut off. 

Other contributing factors can be lead that isn't hot enough or using a lead pot with a pour spout. Ladling from cast iron is really how large castings must be made. I also flux the melt twice w/ EVOO and I light the smoke.   

I've had many various problems and I haven't resorted to indexing yet. Assuming everything is hot the release spray probably makes the biggest difference out of all the tricks.         

Nice work, Ryan.  I'd run that barbless - looks like it'll catch a salmon too.   

Cool art.

Nice work, Ryan.  I'd run that barbless - looks like it'll catch a salmon too.   

Did not even think of that...

You doing the paint in powder coat and if not what top coat are you using?       

I am using spray can primer, then airbrushing Createx colors, followed by spray can clear.

What specifically happens with the 4oz cavity in relation to crappy pours?         

Between the wire and mold sometimes has a void near the tail. Heating the wire up to glowing hot fixes it... mostly.