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Topic: Idea for a down rigger  (Read 6170 times)

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Garety

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Date Registered: Oct 2010
  • Posts: 191
i heard some one talking about using  a old broken rod with one guide left  and a heavy duty reel for a down rigger the other day in a post.

Does any one have any experience/luck doing this? Has any one thought of  or tried using a two piece saltwater rod with out the tip?

I was just thinking this would be alot easier than mounting  a down rigger to my yak. and with the 4 rod hodlers I could probably even run 2 rods off it while in fresh water, where you can use two rods.


Fishbucket

  • Salmon
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  • Location: Petaluma ,Ca.
  • Date Registered: Jul 2011
  • Posts: 567
Some guys have made some really fancy rigs.... Me, not so much.  :smt005


- Joe


SandBag

  • Salmon
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  • Location: Sacramento
  • Date Registered: Jul 2011
  • Posts: 396
I used to use one. But now I use a Scotty lake troller. Bringing up a ball off lead can be very tiring on a reel.

If you are going to make one I would reccomend using a good salmon reel like you said, the weight can wear the drag pretty quick on smaller or cheaper reals.

As for the using just one piece of the rod I find that kind of iffy. The farther the tip is of the side of the kayak, the more you'll turn from the pressure. If it's far enough may even throw off your balance. The closer to the Yak the less it'll drag you into a turn.

 


steveislost

  • Salmon
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  • Steveislost
  • Location: Sacramento, California
  • Date Registered: Apr 2011
  • Posts: 539
You should probably take a look at what it really takes to install an actual downrigger on your kayak.  Not sure what model you are floating, but there are tons of set-up guides for most yaks.  The initial theory of safety and lack of control has been deemed false as a downriggers have become more and more common.  Same with the cost.  You can get a brand new small style downrigger for around $70 new, even better on ebay.  I got mine complete for $15 on Craigslist.  If you used one before on a boat it is easier to make the transition onto a kayak, so if you haven't used one before, you should check out someones on a boat.  Same theory and set-up, just generally larger.  Good fishing.


Garety

  • Salmon
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  • Date Registered: Oct 2010
  • Posts: 191
yeah I've used down riggers on a boat before....

I currently have  both a T 15 and a hobbie revolution. I was trying to KISS and avoid adding a bunch of extra gear. as well as use what is already on the yak. I've yet to see a non electric mounty system I would consider easy to use. Any one seen any descent set ups that are not beyond your feet or behind you?

With the 4 of the flush mount rod holders, and I already have a descent assortment of saltwater gear, I was just going to tie like a 2 or 4 lb ball onto a saltstriker/avet SX combo which has 65 lb spectra, and not use the top half of the rod, the bottom half only has one guide about 18 inchs from the reel so it would stick out only like 8 or 10 inches to the side heck it may not even clear the side of the yak if i use the rear rod holders. PS i already know How to and what it takes to break off 65 lb spectra from a yak :P... Im debatinga bout putting 2 feet of 30 lb mono.



Im not too worried about tipping... a t15 is pretty sturdy, and Ive had the rear rod holders break off all the rivets once when the rod got hit, and i was fine. ( though that was the last time I put a lever drag in there with full drag)


I suppose for the price of a 2 lb ball and a down rigger clip i may as well give it a shot.


Fishbucket

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Petaluma ,Ca.
  • Date Registered: Jul 2011
  • Posts: 567
If you're going to use a reel, dont spool it full. It's like a winch... the most power comes from being close to arbor.
- Joe


steveislost

  • Salmon
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  • Steveislost
  • Location: Sacramento, California
  • Date Registered: Apr 2011
  • Posts: 539
A couple of other factors to think about are gauging depth (maybe if you use a line counter reel) otherwise you are not taking advantage of what a downrigger primarily gives you, getting your bait down to a predetermined controllable depth.  The other issue is abililty to drop the weight lower should you want to take your rig lower.  Not sure how the spool release works with the weight on it, but I guess you can use your drag to ease it down.  Prior to fancy dancy downriggers, a rope and a weight with some rubber bands seemed to work fine in the commercial fishing industry. 

I'm going to be testing out the Shasta Tackle Shuttle Cock here this weekend.  It allows you to leave your weight down and the unit slides down your downrigger line when your fishing line is attached and causing drag, but when the line is released the unit free lines itself back up to the surface.  This would resolve all the cranking up and down of the weight.  Drop the weight once, reel it in once. 


Fishbucket

  • Salmon
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  • Location: Petaluma ,Ca.
  • Date Registered: Jul 2011
  • Posts: 567
A couple of other factors to think about are gauging depth .

 I use kite string and mark 10' depths with a sharpie.
the FishFinder confirms I'm right on the money.
 
- Joe


  • Location: Sacramento
  • Date Registered: Jun 2010
  • Posts: 376
So here is my little downrigger. I had all the stuff for it laying around to make it. The major cost if actually bought are the reel ($180) and rod tip ($80). So it is not really an inexpensive way to do it, but hey I already had everything.

What I did is took a broken rod, cut it to length, took the rest of the rod minus guides slathered with epoxy and shoved it inside the lower part. Epoxied on a roller tip with line follower, and put on a reel with a line counter.

The picture is a little deceiving as it does not stick that far off the side of my kayak. I have mono on it now but will be putting on braid.

I will say I do not like the abuse on the drag when lowering the ball, though I can easily and inexpensively replace them as necessary.

I do like how fast and easy it lifts a downrigger ball (2.5lbs is my max on it so far).
« Last Edit: April 23, 2012, 09:03:36 PM by Ryan (team_chancho) »
2nd Place Albion 2011


Grumpy

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  • Salmon
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  • Location: Livermore
  • Date Registered: Sep 2006
  • Posts: 243
Does a depth finder detect a lead weight?
Doug


barefoot1

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Stevie I think that thing is called the "shuttle hawk".  It looks promising. let us know it works for you.  I was able to mark my lead at Pardee in 55ft. two years ago in very calm conditions.  Since then I have never seen it on my FF.  Never saw it last Sunday at the SSII.  Never saw a kokanee or king either!  DAMN!
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so."
- Mark Twain


  • Location: Sacramento
  • Date Registered: Jun 2010
  • Posts: 376
Does a depth finder detect a lead weight?

If it is directly below the FF's transducer then yes, and of a decent size (ping pong ball 'ish min). However once you get moving forward the weight will want to stay back. The depth, lead weight, and line size all factor into how far back the weight will be when going forward at any given speed (for stuff you can control).

Also your sonar cone will affect you ability to detect the weight. I.E. the weight may be out of view of a narrow beam but in view of a wide beam.

Ryan
2nd Place Albion 2011


RacinRob

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  • Location: Sheridan
  • Date Registered: Mar 2009
  • Posts: 8528
Does a depth finder detect a lead weight?

I see mine down to about 80'. About as deep as I run it anyway. 4lb fish shaped lead. I also use a dual beam trans and at wide-angle I can seethe lead at 40' no problem while moving 1.5 mph.
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Fishbucket

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  • Location: Petaluma ,Ca.
  • Date Registered: Jul 2011
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Does a depth finder detect a lead weight?

 I can see it from 10 feet down... closer if I lean over so the beam can hit it.
- Joe


AlsHobieOutback

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I like the idea of the home made DR, but it sounds a bit difficult to raise the weight on a small crank, vs the Scotty lake troller.  Has anyone used both?
"A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for."

 IG: alshobie


 

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