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Topic: New take on transducer attachment.  (Read 13165 times)

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promethean_spark

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My last FF died at the transducer connector, and it was annoying only having one kayak with the transducer - especially now that I have a zodiac as well..  So I figured out a way to attach the transducer such that it's removeable.  I cut a couple inches off the end of a 4" pool noodle and cut out the shape of the transducer puck such that the puck is snug in the foam.  Then I glued the noodle into the kayak with silicone (which holds better than other adhesives I've tried).  In the field I'll put a bit of water in the little cup this forms and cram the transducer into it.  Since there's only water between the transducer and the hull, I should get the best possible signal, and since the foam and silicone is flexible there is no way that a knock on the hull will pop it off.  Best of all I should be able to move the transducer from boat to boat as needed.  I'll test it out saturday weather permitting.


The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
Superior, they said, never gives up her dead
When the gales of November come early.


Bill

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I have a very simular setup except I use a piece of PVC pipe instead of the noodle. I think the noodle will work a bit better since it is a bit more flexible.

I think this is a great way to setup the transducer expecially if you want ot be able to easily move it from one boat to another.


promethean_spark

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The biggest thing is I can keep the transducer plugged in so the electrodes are safe.  Still need to find some dielectric grease at an auto parts store, or I'll have to use plumbers grease.

The hole in the foam is smaller than the transducer, so it's held in place well.  The main reason I went with foam is I couldn't think of a simple way to secure the transducer if I used a container of some sort (I was thinking of using a sour cream tub first - just cut a hole in the bottom).  This eagle transducer is rounded on the bottom with a pretty small radius, ~2" so it would have taken a LOT of goop to give it a good contact to the hull.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2006, 11:26:45 PM by promethean_spark »
The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
Superior, they said, never gives up her dead
When the gales of November come early.


ex-kayaker

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I used a set up like that for a few trips with a lowrance transducer which is the same as the eagle.  Duct taped the noodle down and plastered a layer of vaseline between the ducer and the hull.  Worked pretty good but messy so I ran it dry and worked the same.  If OK works out a transducer system you don't have to glue down or tape I know what I'm buyin next. 
..........agarcia is just an ex-kayaker


promethean_spark

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Yeah, kayak makers need to do a little thinking on transducer attachment.  A big scupper hole with plugs that have recesses for standard transducers would be awesome.
The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
Superior, they said, never gives up her dead
When the gales of November come early.


promethean_spark

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Well, I got to test my new FF and transducer scheme.  It worked beautifully.  I'd reccomend everyone switch from gluing the transducer directly to a 'tub' scheme like this using flexible foam or some other substance that's easy to attach to the kayak.  I got great sonar resolution at 160', didn't go deeper this trip.  I just splashed a few tablespoons of water into the hole and it was good to go.  Best part is the transducer/ff and connectors can be stored in the garage instead of inside the salty, humid, kayak hull.
The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
Superior, they said, never gives up her dead
When the gales of November come early.


dwwestesq

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Nice work and good contribution to the community.  Is there a reasonably priced, truly waterproof sonar/gps unit out there to match with this new transducer setup?  Thanks.


Bill

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I don't know of any units that are made to withstand what we put them through. Some are better than others and with proper care most will work just fine on a kayak.


promethean_spark

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Most of the small, cheap FFs we use are intended more for freshwater use than marine use, and certainly not to be regularly submerged in seawater.
The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
Superior, they said, never gives up her dead
When the gales of November come early.


SBD

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People over at KFS have been running this style for a while, and it seems to work well.  If you want to hop a ff from boat to boat this is a nice way to go.  If you want to set it and forget it the standard method is less hassle.

Eagle has a new unit thatis an improved 240 called the 245DS and it looks unbeatable.  Dual bean trans, the good ol bulletproof 240 housing and a price of $99.   


Tote

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I was having probs with my FF. I figured it might be the transducer. I did this set up and now my probs are solved. I really like that I can just take it all out at once too. Very convenient.
<=>


phishinpat

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Hey Josh,

Is there foam under the transducer? I'm not sure if there is suppose to be foam under the transducer. Will it read through the foam.
I cut out some foam last night, but I cut it completely so there is no foam under the transducer.


Fuzzy Tom

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I can't believe there is foam under the t/d. Would be air pockets.  Just a donut. I might try that if my goop unsticks again.


promethean_spark

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Yeah, it's just a doughnut. 
The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
Superior, they said, never gives up her dead
When the gales of November come early.


MolBasser

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This is a very cool idea, and one that I am going to utilize on my new boat.

I've had pretty bad luck with goop secured shoot through hull installs.

MolBasser
2006 Kayak Connection Father's Day Champion
"The Science of Fishing"
Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Homebrew!
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