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Topic: penn international 975 star drag - not for kayakers!  (Read 3933 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

alantani

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: saratoga, ca
  • Date Registered: Dec 2004
  • Posts: 721
i don't want you guys fishing with this reel!   :smt011 :smt011 :smt011 :smt011 :smt011 :smt011

a friend brought three to me.  he's a boat fisherman. 

here's a link to the schematic....

http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/Penn-Parts---Text-International-Reels-W38C413.aspx

and here are the reels.



right off the bat, there were a few "problems" noted.













first remove the handle and the star, including the handle nut cap screw (key #32), the handle nut cap (key #110A), the handle nut (key #23), the handle assembly (key #24), the star drag (key #10), the two disc clutch springs, aka. bellevilles (key #18).  then back out the two sideplate screws (key #38).  the side plate and the spool can not be removed as separate units.



take this time now to remove, grease and reinstall the rod clamp screws (key #34).



lube the left spool bearing and the levelwind assembly.  re-install the spool and set it aside. 



remove the right side plate screws (key #50A).



remove the right side plate and set aside the bearing clutch shaft (key #98S) and the roller bearing (key #98B). 


remove the drag metal and fiber washers and the main gear in order. 



this is what you should have left.  if the inner side plate is dissassembled further than this, refer to this photo for reassembly. 



apply a generous coat of shimano or cal's drag grease to the drag washers and reassemble the drag stack.



replace the anti-reverse roller bearing assembly with new parts if you find extensive damage such as this. 



re-install the side plate, the star and the handle, and you're done.  if you want to take a quick look at your reel, you need only back out the two "take-apart screws" in the right side plate (key #38) and the side plate comes off cleanly for a quick inspection.  grab your camera and let us know what you find!






ChuckE

  • Global Moderator
  • Location: San Leandro, CA
  • Date Registered: Dec 2004
  • Posts: 4434
Alan... is all that corrosion from just from neglect?
Winner - 2023 ARW Halibut Derby "King of the Wall"
Winner - 2018 ARW Halibut Handline Derby
Winner - 2013 Doran Beach Crabfest
2nd Place - 2012 Alameda Rockwall Halibut Derby
Winner (Biggest Rock Crab) - 2010 Half Moon Bay Crabfest
Winner - 2009 Alameda Rockwall Halibut Derby
Winner - 2009 Paradise Halibut Hunt
Winner - 2007 NCKA Angler of the Year
Winner "Grand Slam" - 2007 Bendo @ Mendo III
2nd Place - 2007 Monterey Bay Kayak Fishing Derby
Winner - 2004 Santa Cruz Kayak Fishing Derby


alantani

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: saratoga, ca
  • Date Registered: Dec 2004
  • Posts: 721
 :smt011 :smt011 :smt011 :smt011 :smt011 :smt011 :smt011

yup, rode hard and put away wet.  but it's the poor anodizing that is really the saddest. 


Rock Hopper

  • SonomaCoastSafetySquad
  • Global Moderator
  • A-Hull Muggle
  • Location: Santa Rosa
  • Date Registered: Apr 2005
  • Posts: 13360
Thanks, Alan.

I was thinking of picking up one of these and I'm admittedly NOT kind enough to my equipment, so if I got one it would probably end up looking like the ones pictured!

In Loving Memory of Mooch, Eelmaster, Shicken, and Cabeza De Martillo

I started kayak fishing to get away from most of you...


Randy

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Marina
  • Date Registered: Jun 2005
  • Posts: 407
Yes, thanks Alan.

I had my eye on a 955.  I have a friend who swears by his.  Having seen this, I think I'll stay away.


Randy


alantani

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: saratoga, ca
  • Date Registered: Dec 2004
  • Posts: 721
my choice in a reel for you guys would be the narrow spool jigmaster.  you still need to tear it down and grease everything first, but it's simple and will hold up much better. 

you actually could fish with this reel.  grease everything first.  after every trip, take off the side plate, separate the reel into three pieces, frame, spool and side plate.  hose everything down with fresh water.  blow out all the excess moisture with compressed air.  re-lube the bearings.  done. 

actually, you should be doing this with any reel that you used.  what can i say.  things are just a little different for you guys.... :smt011


Gowen4bigfish

  • Guest
for what they are charging for these reels they should be made of much better materials than that.


Bushy

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • First, you do everything right.Then, you get lucky
  • http://theletsgofishingradioshow.com
  • Location: Santa Cruz
  • Date Registered: Jan 2005
  • Posts: 8629
Alan:

You remember when I bought my 975 CS at the ISE show in 05.  I prepped it according to your instructions prior to ever using it.  greased all the side plate scres, everything.

it still ends up looking much like the one in you pics above. 

This reel has the smoothest clicker of any I've used, I love it for shallow water halibut fishing, and it works well mooching salmon, but man does it get gunky fast!  I have essentially stopped using it while yakking, cause I know I have to take it all apart each time to avoid the gunk factor.  and it is no where near as easy to take apart and put back together as my 500/140's or my Newells.

Having said al that, let me add thanks for this tutorial as well.  Into the essential reference file it goes.

(Now I have to get a compressor for the air dry factor, I guess)

Allen

SANTA CRUZ KAYAK FISHING Guide Service  2004
NCKA
NWKA
Santa Cruz Sentinel
Monterey Herald
Western Outdoor News


bailey01

  • Guest
I see a lot of people do not like this reel for kayakers but I just love them and had to get another one. It has never been used. What is the best thing to do to it before it hits the ocean? Any upgrades or just lube? What all should be lubed? I had one before it was stolen and never did anything to it but washing and drying it after every use and keeping it inside and it never looked like the pics here. I was using it from a boat not a kayak though.
Thanks