My Revo Project

Here are a couple more pictures of the mock up cross bar. I mounted the downrigger at the port-side extension, with a weight hook to finish off the bar end; this way I didn't have to turn too much to crank on the DR. On the other end of the bar, is where the outrigger will extend from; I only want it on one side so I can fish freely from the port-side, plus it will counter the weight of the DR.

I put 2 more Scotty Rod Masters on extension; which should make it easier to reach.

I will probably add 1 more Scotty mount in the center of the bar so I can put the flag/light pole.

So unless anyone doesn't see any problems that I missed; I should hard mount them on Saturday.

Nice job on the rigging bro.

Jedmo

One thing you may want to do is add a 1 oz weight to the back side of the peddle. If its positioned properly it will keep the peddle in the "ready" position. I haven't done it yet to mine and regret it everytime I go out. There was a post on this a while back. Not sure who did it or posted it but a GREAT idea!!!

Looking good so far, kind of hard to tell in the pics but it looks like it may be a bit of a reach for the downrigger weight to clip your line on. You could always run your downrigger boom towards the bow.

Pat R

Tote, thanks for posting that pic of the weighted peddles. I will doing that mod this weekend!!!

Thanks Tote! Yeah thats the one I read on the forum; I plan to do something similiar.

Looking good so far, kind of hard to tell in the pics but it looks like it may be a bit of a reach for the downrigger weight to clip your line on. You could always run your downrigger boom towards the bow.

Yeah Pat, I thought about the reach when thinking about placement of the downrigger and direction of the arm.  I knew that I could turn the arm towards the bow to reduce the gap distance, but I also used Scotty's Downrigger weight retreiver on my powerboat downriggers, to reach the release clip; You just pull on the leash to bring the weight and release to you.

I'm hoping this works...

NICE problem solved 

Pat R

Could wait till the weekend to install it, so I just did it anyways. Here is the completed project.

With the mount brackets attached to the bar, I positioned in kayakas close to the seat as possible; this way it would minimize the S--T--R--E--T--C--H i would have to do to access the DR. However, I have to make sure the it would clear the rudder 'stow & go' lever; then I tape it off.

With the bar still attached, i opened one hinge mount and using a 'self-centering' drill bit (shown in the 1st image), I drill the inner hole; this would allow me to pivot it slightly to make sure that both brackets are parallel. I insert a s/s phillips screw and lightly screw the mount down to keep it from moving and closed the mount back up.

I went to the opposite hinges, validate its position and proceded to drill the inner hole; and then inserted a screw to secure it to the kayak.

Prior to drilling the outer hole on the mount, I made sure that both mounts were parallel by checking the gap between the bar and the mount; then proceded to drill the outer hole. I repeated this with the other bracket.

I had to use a standard drill bit to drill the single hole closes to the hinge, but it did not matter if I was slightly off because the hinged should have been center when fastening the 2 top hole.

After all the holes were drilled, i unscrewed both mounts and using 60 grit sandpaper, I light scuffed the both of the mounting brackets and the surface where it would be mounted; this will allow the "Goop' to adhere better to both surfaces.

I applied goop and lightly screwed down screws, starting with the inner screw; this is impoartant because the rail is not a true flat surface and tightening down the outside screw first will cause the hinge to roll to the outside and the mount woould not be level to the crossbar. AFter all scres were securely tightened down with a philips screw driver, not a power drill because you may strip the holes, i cleaned off the excess goop.

Here are the finally image of this completed project (2nd image). Cool thing about this is, loosen 1 screw on the mount and you can easily remove the assembly as one unit(3rd image); and finally & most importantly, use it to carry an extra paddle for Ricci at Lake Berryessa (last image) 

what diameter is that bar. I am not happy with the mount for the ama's i just got. they use well nuts. You mentioned you got the white bar mounts at westy marine. do you have a part #?

E

what diameter is that bar. I am not happy with the mount for the ama's i just got. they use well nuts. You mentioned you got the white bar mounts at westy marine. do you have a part #?

E

The bar is 1" dia & the 7/8" fits nicely inside it; i am going to use that when I start making my outrigger system.

The Rail Mount s model# 5142070; it's in the section where they have the BBQ stuff:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&partNumber=5142070&langId=-1

Installed 3 more Scotty flush mounts in the front of the boat; fairly straight forward, just took my time centering each mount on the rail because it was so narrow.

After marking off each corner screw hole, I found the center of the main hole by intersecting opposite corner screw holes. I found it easier and cleaner to drill the larger center hole with a fortner drill bit vs a spade bit.

Also drill one screw hole at a time, then temporarily insert the screw, verify the positioning again and drill the opposite screw hole; this will make sure that the mount is a close to being centered as possible.

Lastly, a 'nylon eye pad' almost aligns perfectly with the short side of the mount; now I have a place to leash, without having to drill more holes.

Lastly, a 'nylon eye pad' almost aligns perfectly with the short side of the mount; now I have a place to leash, without having to drill more holes.

I'm a firm believer of the rod floats.  No more leashes and I don't have to worry about tangling in them.

Maybe you posted it, but why not use the sail mast tube for the FF unit?

Lastly, a 'nylon eye pad' almost aligns perfectly with the short side of the mount; now I have a place to leash, without having to drill more holes.

I'm a firm believer of the rod floats.  No more leashes and I don't have to worry about tangling in them.

Maybe you posted it, but why not use the sail mast tube for the FF unit?

A rod may float, but I would not want to take a chance on a rod/reel; until I test my lastest upgrade. I saw on of the other NCKA guys at Berryessa with floats on his rods, so I manufactured my own. Until I am confident my rod/reel setup will float, the expensive owns will be leashed.

However, its not so much for the rods and reel, but the other accessories that don't float; ie camera downrigger, etc. Not going to take a chance with them.

I was going to use the mast tube for the FF or vanity camera, but then thought "what if I have a sail?" So I decide to install so flush mounts. Plus, that a long reach for my stubby little arms, so I wanted to get the FF as close to me as possible; the vanity camera can be triggered by remote, so not a problem.

Please keep anymore concerns coming, I learn best from feedback!!

I have the pipe insulation on my ocean rods, with abu 6500 reels.  I tossed them in the pool and find they float just on the surface.  I would like some colored foam better for view, but the pipe insulation works ok.

Nice setup and that thing is rigged for any fish in our area.  Now it's time to test it out.  One suggestion I have for you when rigging is to buy a cot from KMart or WallMart.  I use the cot to place my kayak on and then sit on the kayak (simulating being on the water).  Helps you determine if everything is comfortable and within reach.  I have one you can borrow during your rigging that I don't use anymore since I am done with rigging.  I'm sure everyone has gone through phases of rigging their kayaks and have made modifications after testing them in the water.  Can't beat testing it in your garage before splashing it.

Luis