Downrigger Qs: To Stack or Not To Stack?

Does anyone (on a paddle yak) stack there line on a downrigger? What is the trick to keep the lines from getting tangled when you stack them on on downrigger?

With a power boat, you are moving so the bottom line is trailing behind the weight when you start to attach the second line and continue lower to the desired depth.

In a kayak you are not moving (well not that fast at least) to keep the second line from coming in contact with the lower line when you are lowering it; especially if you are letting out 40'-60' of line out before you attach it to the quick release.

I was actually contemplating using a second downrigger to keep lines from tangling.....

No experience downrigging from a kayak although an avid rigger from my boat . Think stacking may be a little too involved from a kayak ( might pull it off with a Hobie with peddles ) . A better idea might be to DR one line and flat line a second line out the opposite side of your kayak .

I'm sure it can be done with a paddle yak, in fact I think several people on here have done it.

I do have a Hobie and it's a lot easier to do but I'd think it would have to look something like the following:
*paddle
*let out line on 1st pole.
*attach line to clip
*paddle to get up to speed
*drop DR
*paddle
*let out line on 2nd rod
*attach stacker to cable/braid
*attach line to clip
*paddle up to speed
*drop DR to desired depth


**One important thing to remember is that the lure on the line you first attach to the DR must not be a buoyant lure as it will float up and if your second line is stacked too close, it will tangle, especially if the second line is heavy and falls.  I've learned this the hard way and it wasn't pleasant.

One way to get around having to stack on a DR is to put one line on the DR and on the other line use a lure/presentation that gets you 10-15' deep.  For example, sometimes I put on a deep diving rapala on my non-DR line and this keeps me from having to stack because the deep diver will get me down enough.

Of course, the other option is to just purchase a Hobie.

Hope this helps and I'm sure others will chime in.

I did this exactly as Dilbeck outlined on my P-15 and had no problems.  If you use a bouyant lure, put it on your second line.  I can't wait "til next weekend to see how much easier it will be on my Revo.----Jeff

Glenn, IMOP, i wouldnt even bother tryna stack..just to complicated with a paddle yak! just put one down with the DR and use the other rod for a topline or 3-way rig..its what I gonna do when i get my DR! your gonna want to try to troll in two different depth zone anyways until you find where the fish are at! With next weeks BEAUTIFUL FORECAST, i wouldnt doubt the water gets warm enough to get these fish right on top! A longlined deadly dick lure or kastmaster may just do the trick!

Yeah, if you are referring to Berryessa, Ricci is correct, you won't need to stack.  Do as he said and run at two different depths to find the fish.

That said, if you want to do it later in the trolling season when the fish are deeper, it is possible but it takes some time and patience to perfect.

Below is proof that it can be done.

Yes, my rods should have been loaded up more, this was my first attempt at it.

And yes, I'm dorky and leave the plastic on my rod handles.

i could stack easy but i prefer not to.  If I was to stack, I'd use a shuttle hawk on my second line.

instead, i'm going with two downriggers and two pairs of shuttle hawks on my hobie...not sure how it will work out but i will find out.

oops, didn't realize you said paddle yak.  But the same holds true. If you want to stack, I think a shuttle hawk would be the easiest way.

Otherwise, i'd just do a dropper off your line. do you know how that works? Its not very well known but it is a good way to fish two depths.

so let's say you are fishing 45' deep for kokanee. because of the boat speed and drag, your line (your main line, not downrigger) will have a slight bend to it at approximately 25' deep.  It is hard to nearly impossible to find out exactly what depth this is, but that doesn't matter. 

If you take a second line with a short leader - 2' - 3' long tied to a snap or snap swivel, and attach it to your main line, it will slowly be dragged down to depth, but will not go all the way down to your downrigger ball as it won't pass the bend in the line.  so you will be fishing at two depths on the same line.  this works best with small spoons such as needlefish, but i wouldn't try it with a rapala or any diving lure with multiple hooks.  if you get a bite on the dropper, you pop the line out of the rigger like normal, and the main line will slide through the snap until it gets to the terminal gear. there should be some sort of stopper there.  then you fight the fish like normal.  the idea is that trout will generally be higher in the water column than kokanee, and will bite the dropper.  kokanee will hit the lower lure.

this is best not used when you think you might get a double hookup

I agree with using heavier lure on bottom and lighter on top. I have tried it with a paddle yak and it's a B-otch! On the hobie it's managable. I run 2 riggers on my double, but I have somebody else paddling while I lset the rods up. I have a ton of crap for the yak, but I'm trying to scale back and keep it simple. BTW, I have not been successful with scaling back yet!!!!

I think a shuttle hawk would be the easiest way.

just picked up the shuttle hawk and it looks like it should do the trick; however, not sure if there would be sufficient force at 1.5mph to drive the s-hawk to the desired depth or how long will it take to reach it.

btw Snapperhead: your welcome to keep "scaling back" in my direction.....

And yes, I'm dorky and leave the plastic on my rod handles.

I do the same    Wont take the price tag off until a rod catches a fish!   

just picked up the shuttle hawk and it looks like it should do the trick; however, not sure if there would be sufficient force at 1.5mph to drive the s-hawk to the desired depth or how long will it take to reach it.

you need to be at or around 2mph to get the shuttle hawk down. once you get it down you can slow to normal kokanee trolling speeds of 1mph. since you are in a paddle yak, it would be best if you have a rod with free spool + clicker. the clicker will give it enough tension to let it go down.  there is probably another way but since i'm in the hobie i wouldnt know it. i know that yakhopper has used a shuttle hawk in his trident, you might want to send him a message and ask how it works for him.

... it would be best if you have a rod with free spool + clicker. the clicker will give it enough tension to let it go down. 

Got that covered; will be using a Calcutta to take care of that. Looked around for a new reel with a line counter, but will wait to see if I stick with targeting KoKos....

Thanks all for your advise; will put it to good use in 3 days!!!! wahooooooo!!!!

... especially if the second line is heavy and falls.  I've learned this the hard way and it wasn't pleasant.

... so if I am stacking on my DR, which one of these would go on the bottom?????