Power for your FF/GPS?

I'm going to install my new FF/GPS unit this weekend and was wondering what everyone is using for power and how what you are using to protect the batteries. I was thinking of a motorcycle battery but I'm a little confused on the mounting of it. Does anyone have a write up or pictures of how they set theirs up.

Thanks,
Mark

motocycle batt is a bit overkill. Most ppl use either a 10 cell AA set up (which you'll need to make). You can search the site for the 'how to' or use a 12v battery like this. I started with the AA set up but eventually switched to the 12v and I can make 4-5 trips between charges.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0036388018049a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCHFEAT_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&QueryText=battery&sort=all&Go.y=0&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&Go.x=0&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1

I got a 12V battery in a dry box from diveandkayak.com. Not very cheap but pretty convenient. Before I got it I used a 12V without a box for about a year with no problems except for some corrosion on the connections. One charge lasts for at least two or three fishing sessions.

I got a 12V battery in a dry box from diveandkayak.com. Not very cheap but pretty convenient. Before I got it I used a 12V without a box for about a year with no problems except for some corrosion on the connections. One charge lasts for at least two or three fishing sessions.

Oh yes and make sure you coat all connections with dielectric grease. 

question is- where can you find an affordable dry box?  (not one that costs 20+ bucks)

Lock-n-Lock containers from Target work fine for 5-6$ a piece.  I took mine and fully submerged in a bucket didn't take on water. 

12V v.s. 10AA's:

I loved my 10AA's setup for its lightweight convenience.  But I ended up spending much more money on it than a 12V battery setup.  Now I'm thinking about the 12V...

10AA's:
Pro: Very lightweight, smaller size, easy to waterproof,useful for other things like flashlights, gps, etc., convenient; can buy AA's anywhere if they die on you.
Con: Expensive.  Charging 10AA's requires multiple chargers, or a big one to do all 10 at once.  Gets tiresome to charge in "batches".  Really good rechargeable AA's cost quite a bit, mine were >3$ each. That's more than a 12V and charger! 

12V:
Pro: One Battery, One Charger.  Not expensive, 30$ for battery and charger! Simple!
Con: Heavy, bigger size, I hear clips can break and be hard to solder back on.

but will a brick style battery fit in a lock and lock?  i have not tried it before and my brick has not arrived yet from cabelas.

my 10 AAs fit perfect in a lock n lock but thats only for my FF.  i need a dry box for my new shimano livewell but i dont want to spend 20 bucks on a box (thats about as much as the battery cost me!)

but will a brick style battery fit in a lock and lock?  i have not tried it before and my brick has not arrived yet from cabelas.

my 10 AAs fit perfect in a lock n lock but thats only for my FF.  i need a dry box for my new shimano livewell but i dont want to spend 20 bucks on a box (thats about as much as the battery cost me!)

I have two sizes, and either one would fit at least one, if not two, bricks in it.

thanks bud, i will try to hit clement street sometime this week or next to find the right size box.

Thanks for the info, the 12v sounds like the way to go, the one at cabales says it waterproof, would you still seal it in a box or just strap it in the way it comes? Also is there a local source for a 12v battery somewhere, I was hoping to get this done over the weekend.

Current + Saltwater = Rust as far as I know.  Maybe they are talking about the charger being waterproof?

I should amend my previous post. I let the contacts on my first battery get corroded and eventually one of them broke off, partly from corrosion and partly from connecting and disconnecting the wires.  If the contacts on the battery break off they can't be fixed. So it seemed reasonable to spend more for the dry box. The contacts stay dry and you just plug into the side of the box, no more fiddling with the connections to the contacts while you're loading or unloading your boat.

Lock-n-Lock containers from Target work fine for 5-6$ a piece.  I took mine and fully submerged in a bucket didn't take on water. 

12V v.s. 10AA's:

I loved my 10AA's setup for its lightweight convenience.  But I ended up spending much more money on it than a 12V battery setup.  Now I'm thinking about the 12V...

10AA's:
Pro: Very lightweight, smaller size, easy to waterproof,useful for other things like flashlights, gps, etc., convenient; can buy AA's anywhere if they die on you.
Con: Expensive.  Charging 10AA's requires multiple chargers, or a big one to do all 10 at once.  Gets tiresome to charge in "batches".  Really good rechargeable AA's cost quite a bit, mine were >3$ each. That's more than a 12V and charger! 

12V:
Pro: One Battery, One Charger.  Not expensive, 30$ for battery and charger! Simple!
Con: Heavy, bigger size, I hear clips can break and be hard to solder back on.

If you break a lead off, drill out and tap in a screw. It will work as a replacement lead.

-Brian G

i have something like this and it works well:
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?page=19

I've never seen any rust on mine and its not in a box.I have the battery leads connected to a two prong trailer plug that attaches to the head unit. Its just the supplied bag in the bow of my T13. But I also coat the hell out of all the terminals (after each trip) with grease. What about sealing the battery with leads attached (and the trailer plug free) in a vac seal bag? that's pretty damn waterproof no? If you wanted you could seal of the leads with a little duct tape...I may give that a shot this weekend.