Trident 13 drift anchor

I traded "Guitarzan" Ben labor...he worked on my wife's bathroom tile, I built him a drift anchor set up.  The tile came out SWEET.  Thanks Guitarzan.  Here is your anchor setup...

Do you powder coat after? Powder coating seems to hold up better against the inevitable rusting that comes from using steel. Nice design. Is it bolted to the well nuts that are molded in the hull at the factory?

Yes, it uses the factory rudder mounts.  It is similar to the one on my T-11, just a little longer.  I just paint it with hammer paint and it seems to hold up fine, powder coating would be sweet though.

Hammer paint. I have never heard of that.We deal mostly with automotive paints. They chip easily compared with some product. Even the best paint doesn't hold up as good as OEM. I have to google Hammer paint. Powder is kind of expensive. Nice looking mig welds too.

Hammer paint is just a durable wrinkle-finish rattle can...but it works pretty good.

so are those permanently attached or can they be removed?  do you attach them using well nuts so they can be removed easily?  I know there is no access inside the hull at that position.  I was considering making a drift anchor myself for fishing the local lakes/rivers (relatively slow water but I want to anchor up and bait fish)

so are those permanently attached or can they be removed?  do you attach them using well nuts so they can be removed easily?  I know there is no access inside the hull at that position.  I was considering making a drift anchor myself for fishing the local lakes/rivers (relatively slow water but I want to anchor up and bait fish)

The kayak has threaded inserts embedded in the plastic from the factory for rudder mounting, easy on easy off.

Do you powder coat after? Powder coating seems to hold up better against the inevitable rusting that comes from using steel.

Over the years I have found that this paint (Dupli Color) works really well.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html

It contains a ceramic resin which will withstand  incredible abuse from the elements.The trick is to preheat the metal and then spray it on, give it at least two coats. Its seems to be harder that regular enamel paint and almost holds up as well as a powder coat. Its an engine enamel/ high heat paint but I have used in on all kinds of applications and have been very pleased.It comes in almost any color and you can pick it up it at most automotive stores or even some hardware stores.

For a color match I think that [DE 1641 Grabber Green (Lime)] might just be the perfect color for this application. 

The kayak has threaded inserts embedded in the plastic from the factory for rudder mounting, easy on easy off.

Yep.

Over the years I have found that this paint (Dupli Color) works really well.

I'll have to give it a try.

looks good i am going to make a mount a and use a scotty anchor on mine

Very nice Sean, looks bullit proof, easy on and off. KISS at it's best.
 Randall

looks good i am going to make a mount a and use a scotty anchor on mine

Thats what Bird did.  He however took the line lock out of his Scotty, I would do the same.   You don't want that getting jammed where you can't reach it.

Great work Sean, very cool set-up.

Here's a few pics of the mount using the Scotty on a T-11.  I had the scotty mount and a flat piece of 3/16" aluminum in the garage, picked-up a piece of scrap 3"x3" - 1/4" aluminum angle at Blue Collar in Sac, plus a few rivets, nuts& bolts, and a few screws that fit the stock OK threaded mount.  Works good.  Needs a bit more finish work on the rear edges. As mentioned, I did remove the locking mechanism to avoid problems on the water, considering mounting a metal ring or something to provide a smooth angle to feed the line through at the front of the mount.  No line wear problems on the edge of the plastic mount so far, so might not be necessary. Finished off with a custom Ravensblack 8-lber.

considering mounting a metal ring or something to provide a smooth angle to feed the line through at the front of the mount.

Nice set up !

If you run into a problem with the line angle being too steep, try installing a SS eye bolt. Then drill a hole thought the flat stock and put a flush mount to drop it down. Just a thought

If the flat stock isn't wide enough for this one


Try this style

Abdiver - I debated between the rectangular flush mount and the above deck one I used.  Decided to use the above deck because it keeps the anchor and bottom of the flush mount from dragging in the water when I'm in the boat. Don't know if that would make much of a difference either way. Have been thinking about switching to the flush mount just to try it out and lower the total height, but current version works well and keeps everything from dragging so I haven't bothered. No problems with line angles, works real smooth. I removed the locking mechanism then re-installed the screw and metal tube that held the lock in place, line runs freely through the front opening, no problems with any kind of line wear to date.