Chain saws and how they cut?

  Completely non kayak

  Had PG&E crew out to remove 2 huge tanoaks (70+ feet tall) on my property that had overgrown some power lines, (A tree expert sent out by PG&E recommended removing them) so now I have lots of fire wood for next season.    While cutting up the logs the crew left, I noticed that my chain saw (huskavanara 142) would not cut straight!  While cutting through a large log 14+ inches, the blade will allways curve out to the right (Cutting downward) and I'd end up with a angled cut with a radius?   Doesn't matter if I angle the bar to "counter the effect" the bar allways curves out to the right.
  Anyone else ever experience this?  Could the bar on the saw be bent?   I sharpened the chain, and it seemed to cut normal, (Speed wise) It visibly doesn't look bent.  I stopped whacking up the logs until I can get answers for this. The bar is 18" and narrow.

Shoot Insaneduane a PM... he's a professional tree guy.

My fellow SLV yaker,

Mark at Ben Lomond Scarborough is an expert on Husky chain saws. He works Wednesday through Sunday, just go to the back counter. Sounds like you bar may be worn, but Mark can take care of it.

Rich

  I hope it's not worn, the saw is not that old.   I've been to that counter, and if it's the same guy, he showed me the proper way to sharpen the chain, (Which was not the way I did it before)  Thanks for the info.  Maybe I'll bring it in.

more likely you than the saw.
I used to go through 7 cords a year
when I would get tired the same thing would happen
most people really don't guide the saw, they just expect it to cut straight

Mark's heavy set, wears big glasses..

  No, it's not me.  I tried to keep the cut straight, as soon as the bar got into the log, it starts cutting to the right!
 Just learned that I may have caused this after I sharpened the chain.  Possibly removed more material on one left set of teeth than on the rights set. Not knowing then, while sharpening it, to remove or swipe the file evenly on every tooth, both sides.  I may have to work on the right side teeth a little. Or simply replace the darn chain!  I have a few thing to look at tonight when I get home.

Hey JP......

It ain't you.
It ain't the bar.
It ain't the way you hold the saw.
It ain't the time of day or the type of wood.

You already put your finger on it......it's how the chain is sharpened.

You gotta put the exact angle (often 27-deg) on EVERY cutter.
And MORE, your file absolutely has to cut across the cutter HORIZONTALLY
(you can't sag your hand down...you can't lift it highs)
Don't forget that you have cutters at 180-deg to one another (the ones the cut to the left side of the bar, and the ones that cut to the right side of the bar.  Gotta be SURE to get all of 'em)

You put the right edge on all the cutters...yer saw will cut wood like it was butter, and the cuts will be perfectly straight.

So that's the deal
TIP:   Files are ok, but a Dremmel Tool with saw-sharpening bits---especiall those with diamond cutting grit...???....oh:  They are purely wonderful.   Your job will go fast, and you will do a good job.

Oh, and tip number two:   be sure you keep the chain oiled when cutting.   If you have an auto-oiler, make sure the reservoir is full.   If not, you gotta keep your thumb busy on the little hand-pump-button.

Judd

If you don' sharpen the teeth at exactly the right angle and the rake heights are not adjusted as the teeth are sharpened  you will not get a straight cut. Have a pro sharpen them or get a sharpener that gives you the correct angles both horiz and vert. That will solve the problem.

Stoggie

 
  Figures I mucked up the chain.  Well, fortunately the chains are only $15 or so.  My saw has an "Auto-oiler" as I don't have a button to pump on it (like my little McCulloch eager beaver has) and i do make sure the reservoir is full all the time.

Real pros don't use a sharpening guide, but they're sharpening chains several times a day. I might sharpen a chain a couple times a year, so I use a guide. And I count strokes per tooth. Chain cuts nice and straight.

P.S. You should have bought a Stihl

  Had Sears carried Stihl I might have.  For the little use my chainsaw gets each year, I think I might look into getting a guide.  I guess knowing exactly what part of the cutter tooth actually does the cutting would help when sharpening. Guess a guide would help there.  If i remember right, Mark (Ben Lomond Ace) showed me a diagram of a chain tooth, and the material removal section was the outer square edge or corner of the tooth.  He sold me the file I used to butcher my chain 
Oh well.  I guess it's a learned art.

  Well, after searching the web, I found some usefull info. In one site, there was a "What if my saw cuts to one side" section, Well thats me!  First & foremost, the sure sign a chain is dull is saw dust instead of chips exiting the saw.   The last few cuts I made, there was lots of sawdust.  Chain is dull!  (Possibly has damage as well)  Which part of the chain is dull though? The "point"? (that's the sharp 90deg outer corner) or "Side plate" ( The vertical edge below top plate that makes up one side of the 90 deg corner) Or the top plate?  The chisel angle? (the leading edge of the top plate) or the depth gauge?  After reading all about these items that make up the cutter, I determined it's time for a new chain.  A few nuts, a cover screw or two and the bar is off, ready for the new chain. 
 
 

Have had the same thing happen to me and found out that the bar was wearing more on one side than the other. The chain rides in the groove. If the sides of the bar that hold the chain in the groove are worn more on one side than the other the chain (Instead of being at a 90 degree angle to the bar) the chain will cut at an angel. Think of it as the bar and chain must be at right angels to each other to cut straight through a log. It is hard to see with the naked eye, how much it is off. The more pressure you put on it when you are cutting, it makes it worst. Take it to a saw shop and they will show you what you need to correct the problem. Hope this helps

Also forgot to add, you might be able to see what I mean by taking a "Square" along the side of the bar and make sure that the sides of the chain groove are even. If they are off just a little bit, it will make your chain cut at an angle. Good luck