Big fish and kayak safety?

 When targeting big fish(sturgeon) from a kayak what # line are you guys using. I use 65# braid from a boat and it's hard to break this line. I'm guessing you would have to cut it if your in a kayak and had to break free. My concern would be if I hooked a big fish from the yak and got sideways and in danger of being pulled over or had to snap him off in a hurry from being tangled in the line or something like that. Whats a good # line that would hold the fish but allow me to snap the line quick if I had to? I'm thinking 20-25# mono with a long wire leader for a sturgeon/kayak set-up?

 

f-stock,  there are some good threads about safety when sturgeon fishing.

Check out Erik KZ's article on targeting sturgeon - in the articles list on left column of the front page. He emphasizes safety and gives some good tips. Here's the link to the article:  http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?page=14

Update the quick release anchor system in his article with something like this from Tote (using a cam cleat or V cleat)
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,6529.0.html

This is off subject of your exact question but here's another thread about safety when anchoring in current:
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,7519.0.html

probably one of the best things i learned about big fish over the last few years is this:

keep the rod tip low and right up at the bow

if you are religious about this, you'll end up spinning the yak rather than getting in a bizarre 90 degree situation-- with a big fish running perpendicular under the boat.  Once the fish is all tuckered out, loosen the drag....

even with that said-- a knife or something to cut the line with is really key.

Here's a pic Eldorado took of fighting a smallish sturgeon last week- low and at the bow...that fish dragged me in a bunch of little circles

I haven't needed my dive knife while diving but I wear it on my calf when yak fishing. I use it all the time for all my bait,line cutting and it is always right there. Do you think you could break 30-40 lb mono if you were tangled in it? I've never tried it.

here's an interesting experiment!
try "tangling" your ankles with something like 8lb, and see if you can break it...

i could only generate enough force in certain positions, and even then only with difficulty...if i was under cold muddy water i don't know (but i do know where my knife is)

I have cut my thumb down to the bone while trying to unsnag 20 pound test. Now I always have a dive knife on my PFD. I like the kind with the blunt tip.

Bingo... keep a knife attached to your person (on your leg, in your pfd, etc.).  I

like 40# or greater spectra for dinos... I personally use 65# spectra and 80# mono leader.  I don't like wire leaders... I subscribe to the theory that dissimilar metals can give off offensive weak electric fields, plus I'd rather rely on a knot I tied myself than someone else's crimp job.  Heavy spectra leaders should be fine too... probably 100# or so just for good abrasion resistance.

EK

man, you guys use some serious testage

man, you guys use some serious testage

No one's ever complimented my 'testage' before. 

With sturgeon it's really just about abrasion resistance more than anything.  I've caught them on 15 lb mono before, but I've lost them on 15 lb and 25 lb mono on more than one occasion.  Never broke one off with the setup I have now (except for when I didn't change my leader after landing one that nicked the leader up).

Use common sense.  Realistically speaking, you're not going to have more drag that you can handle on a kayak, even in the 90 degree position.  Sometimes the 90 degree position works well when you're trying to put the hurt on a fish as it gives you better leverage.  You can turn your yak pretty damn fast by pointing your rod to the front and turning your yak.  I've used that technique with good success to put the hurt on many a large king up at Moutcha.

It a straight up and down fight, even pointing your rod towards the front of the yak can unbalance you.  When I was on my salmon shark, I experienced this first hand.  After a couple of surging runs in this position, I determined by best course of action was to loosen the drag.  I estimate I had about 15# of drag going in this position (heavy tackle!) and it was a bit unsettling until I loosened the drag a bit.  But I don't think I backed off to less than 10# of drag and even that was a tussle.  Be very familiar with your gear and your skill.

The end game is the most dangerous part in my opinion.  You're going to be to be bringing the fish up to your side at that point and sudden rushes can catch you off guard if you're not prepared.  When leadering a fish make sure you don't have loose loops that can wrap on something (a body part or an rod holder).

-Allen

Yup... I'm with SteveS on keeping the tip over the bow. I basically use 30# spectra with 65# leaders for dinos and have been broken off once by an oversized monster. Melissa used the same set up and almost went for a swim when she let her rod tip go perpendicular to the yak... I yelled like crazy at her and she listened up and stayed dry... I'm from the school that "testage" isn't as important as how you play your fish.

Good luck out there...

Freddie

I really don't have anything to add except to echo the quote below,,,,,

for sturgeon and shark I use 30# braid, then for leaders, 60# mono for sturgeon, and 60# wire for sharks.

I haven't needed my dive knife while diving but I wear it on my calf when yak fishing. I use it all the time for all my bait,line cutting and it is always right there. Do you think you could break 30-40 lb mono if you were tangled in it? I've never tried it.

It a straight up and down fight, even pointing your rod towards the front of the yak can unbalance you.  When I was on my salmon shark, I experienced this first hand.  After a couple of surging runs in this position, I determined by best course of action was to loosen the drag. 

Agree w/ Allen on this one. I've had a few really large chinook on and when they make flat out runs they go fully sideways and not down. It's pretty much impossible to have 'em pull your yak around fast enough (especially on longer yaks). You're forced to play the drag or swim. Once chinook do tire a little I like to go bow-ward and wear 'em into the ground.

The end game is the most dangerous part in my opinion.  You're going to be to be bringing the fish up to your side at that point and sudden rushes can catch you off guard if you're not prepared.

No doubt. I like to take the drag down a few notches and thumb the spool. It's hard to keep it all together but if the fish does go haywire you can just let go of the spool, let the fish run and then crank the drag down again. I figure it's the best way to keep the fish on the hook.

Z

I'm with Steves...toward the bow and low.  You can really put the beans to fish in this position...many times I have the rod tip in the water.  For greater stability go "pony style" with a leg over each side...this makes a phenomenal difference in your CG.  My only beef with a really loose drag is it can be truly exhausting to the fish, and if you want to release it a super long battle can be too much.

As for entanglement, you godda have on a PFD to keep you bouyant, and a good knife with a line cutter permanently attached.

Yup... I'm with SteveS on keeping the tip over the bow.

Amen! Do this with any fish that can tow you around ALWAYS POINT YOUR ROD TOWARDS YOUR BOW and let the fish use  you like a bobber