Pyramid Anchors

I now that a lot of folk are making their own pyramid anchors, but for those looking for a source where they can just spend some money and purchase one online..

These are pontoon boat anchors and come in 5 lb and 12 lb models.  There was some talk earlier on how the smaller 10 lb drift boat anchors might be a bit too heavy for kayaks so I'm wondering if the 5 lb pontoon anchor wouldn't be ideal.


http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0001539315380a

It's a little pricey at $39.99 + tax + $7.95 shipping for the 5 lb'er.  The 12 lber is $49.99.

Maybe there are some flyfishing shops around that sell pontoon boats that might also have these for less.

In searching I also came across pontoon boat anchor bags.  Basically, they're heavy duty mesh that you place a few rocks in to use as an anchor.  Any thoughts on how well these might work..

http://www.creekcompany.com/indivdisplay.php?primaryAutoID=190&Cat=3&Cat1=10



Brian

Wouldn't last very long and it would catch on everything.

I won one of those mesh bags in a raffle last year but haven't tried it yet (since I have a couple anchors already).  Some of the places I fish have pretty soft bottoms so snagging wouldn't be a problem at those places but I can see how it might be a problem around rocky bottoms...
 
The one I have was intended for use with a float tube so there's not a lot of holding power required.  A yak might catch enough wind and current to be more of a problem.
 
There are a variety of weights designed for trolling that could sub for the pyramid anchors if you just don't like the pyramids (I haven't tried them).

it would catch on everything.

Agree w/ Mc on this one. Snagging in current is just bad news all around.

Z

I have spent alot time on the rivers this winter testing out drift anchors, brush grippers and drift chutes. I learned from mistakes I made and have a very good working knowledge of these various methods. I tried doing all the things they say you should never attempt. I nearly lost my boat once and and had several very close calls. I put it on the line to bring clarity to this issue and I what I learned is voluminous. I'll just say That I view trying to stop or slow yourself down in moving water a recipe for disaster. I mean this specifically to the kayak angler that has not learned how to negotiate a fishing kayak down Rivers with dynamic and daily changing features. My whitewater kayak training taught me how to dissect a river and play in those features. I understand that to know a river means to see it in 3 dimension the whole way. If you want to tackle rivers like the Smith, Klamath, and Trinity you need alot more than a well engineered anchor set-up.

I'll give the transmission on what I learned at the "Gimme shelter" river run and they can go spread it to the masses. Two things I'll say here though are that hanging an anchor off your stern is going to affect the kayaks angle of drift going down river. You'll constantly be pivoting around your anchor as you move from stronger to lighter current. I learned to keep my 10 lb pyramid anchor near the middle of the boat in the center hatch and deploy it when It was most useful. 2nd I learned that 10 lbs will drag even in mild current and a heavier anchor can be unwieldy to retrieve. I'm coming to prefer my drift chute deployed off the stern with about 10 ft of rope. It keeps me lined up just how I want, is easy and lightweight to stow and can be jettisoned on a float with a quick release like cake. Now if only those damn steelies would reward my efforts

Hey Hawk,

It's always good to hear from someone with some experience.

However I'm really confused on how you effectively use a drift chute in moving water.  Seems to me it would pull you down river faster.  Are you using it to stay in a back eddy or something?

Thanks,
Brian

Sounds weird to me too...

A 10lb anchor is fine for sturgeon fishing and a little overkill for abalone diving, but it is nice to know that my boat will be there when I get back.

BTW, use an anchor chain instead of tying directly to the anchor.  The chain prevents the line from chafing on rocks and the weight of the chain also reduces the angle to the bottom that the anchorline attaches to the anchor, making it grip a bit better when you have a fair amount of line out in fast currents.

Drift chute in a river.. Am I missing something???

My drift anchor rig straight off the stern works fine w/ a 10# pyramid. Haven't heard any complaints from the OG's that have paved the way for us either. Sounds like you're trying to anchor in a place w/ waaaay too much current.

Z

Yes Z the rivers I paddle have waaaaay more current than you would be use to but that's what we have here on the Northcoast. If you waited till river levels were ideal you'd only make a few runs a year or be stuck on Lazy rivers like the Russian. I think in the future anglers will gravitate to more wilderness rivers, bigger, faster water and boat designs will follow. I'm trying some weird unorthodox stuff but the point is I'm out trying it not just writing about it. I have the benefit of theory and practical application in an extremely dynamic environment. If you never see yourself running anything more than class I then more power to you, there are a lot of fish in class I river sections. The adrenaline junkie in me wants heart pounding excitement. If I get skunked now and again I guarantee I'm still having more fun than most. Anchors, drift chutes, blaaa blaaa you don't need any of it. Learn to paddle like HAWK and every river system in the world will be fishable for you

I'm trying some weird unorthodox stuff but the point is I'm out trying it not just writing about it. I have the benefit of theory and practical application in an extremely dynamic environment.

Okay, maybe the Class II+ drift chute theory is beyond us.

Anyway, I think most of us hope to be able to use our kayaks in the same general way drift boats fish these rivers.   In other words, we want to be able to safely navigate a few small sections of fast water to get to mild sections of holding water.  I have no expectations of anchoring up amid a class III rock garden to do some fishing.  I don't believe drift boats even attempt to do that.  I'll stick to picking my mild flow days and easy drift sections.

Learn to paddle like HAWK and every river system in the world will be fishable for you

What's with third person self-reference?

Yes Z the rivers I paddle have waaaaay more current than you would be use to but that's what we have here on the Northcoast.

My point was anchoring up in a heavy current is not where the fish are and that anchoring up there would most likely lead to a dangerous situation anyway. There's plenty of areas that will give you safe anchoring and even better, the optimum spot for fishing. Those are the spots that that hold fish and where they feed= more likely to get more fish in the yak. If that's not what you're about fine. To each his own and have fun.

BTW becuase of the lack of rain in Wa all our rivers totally woosie piddlers. 

Z

My point was anchoring up in a heavy current is not where the fish are and that anchoring up there would most likely lead to a dangerous situation anyway.

I don't know where you read that I advocate anchoring in fast current, I use a drift chute in current but operate pretty much just like a drift boat in how I anchor. I made the comment my anchor dragged in "MILD" current. This was on the Eel in a section I had successfully anchored before. By applying the skillset of whitewater kayaker to kayak fishing it opens up more of the river to you. This is the tangent I got off on but you guys are misconstruing my point. I'd rather have the opportunity to show you what I mean on the river rather than typing words out my A@#
 
"Hawk"-is an alter ego, an ideal I strive to live up to but he is one arrogant SOB, I'll give you that

Being the person that started this whole thing, heres my .02 on the matter. You might be the whitewater "pro", but I have been playing with salmon and steelhead professionally since 1991. There are reasons you are floating the best water in the state and catching a whole lot of nothing. 

The flows you fished earlier this year on the Smith were just plain too high at 14.5K cfs.  The guides, who know a LOT more than both of us prefer it at half that flow or lower.  Every reach of river has a flow and color were it fishes best.  Learning those flows is half of the game.   Just because your super-hero skillset allows you to handle the flow, doesn't make it fishable. 

The fast water that is a problem for you on anchor is exactly where fish wont be.  It is too much work for you and the fish.  Classic steelhead holding areas are "walking-pace water".  When passing through fast water steelhead use the inside or outside slow water seam. 

Your comments about the "lazy" Russian is a perfect example of your lack of knowledge when it comes to river fishing.  The Russian has up to Class 3 water.  We don't fish those sections.  Not because were scared, or as unmanly as you...we don't fish there because the fish DONT hang out in that kind of water.

Guys like Mako1 that live for steel know all of the rivers and there subreaches or "drifts", and select the right drift for the conditions on any given weekend.  We are fortunate to have many to choose form, each of which has it own personality, timing, and characteristics.  You know them from a whitewater perspective, but the timing for fish is not the same.

Finally, rivers and runs strength vary naturally from year to year.  Get a handle on what rivers are doing well, and fish those.  The normally epic Smith is in the tank this year...while the "lazy" section of the Mad is having a record year.  Go figure.

Anchors, the way I intended them have three purposes:

1) You're drifting or a slow run or a pool and hook up. Then what?  Your going to be need two hands to land a barbless steelhead.  You simply can't paddle and fish barbless simultaneously and expect reliable success.  If its a big pool with no velocity and the fish stays put...your good to go.  If its starts heading towards the tailout with a big mess downstream you are F'd...unless you drop anchor in a LOW VELOCITY section of water and control your destiny. I have done this numerous times. 

If you simply want to hole hop, you can get away with no anchor...no problem.

2) You can anchor in a low velocity piece of water, next to high velocity water and fish a plug and have use of both hands...this is deadly.  BTDT.

3) You can anchor is slow water to give yourself access or better access to water that would be tough to access via wading.  There are lots of places where this has been very handy. 

I have said it many times, but anchor fishing is dangerous.  If you are new to this game, don't do it...PERIOD.

Thanks Sean for clarifying things.

I'd just like to add..

"Learn to kayak fish like SCWAFISH and discover the difference between paddling and catching"

I Knew that comment about the Russian would get your hackles up. Like I said in a post elsewhwere I'm not about to disagree with Scwa I accept his assesment no matter how scathing. I take what he says as the gospel.
I would remind you though Sean That you once too had young children and probably remember how difficult it was to get out and fish on a regular basis. You know as well as I the frustration of spending all day at river and catching nothing. Don't judge my fishing skills on one bad season. In 91 when you started profesionally I was living deep in a forest sustaining myself and 4 others off the fish I caught everyday from my little wood canoe, no fish, no eat. It's more than just a hobby to me.

I got off on a tangent in my earlier post and maybe it looks like I'm advocating fishing in strong current but that's not what I meant. I fish the same holding waters as all the driftboats. I mirror the driftboats in how they run the river, what rig they're fishing with an where they anchor out. I've lost fish while stationary and several times while underway casting along the seams in current. Forgive me for not posting that. Look at a river from it's headwaters to the sea and there will be fish in every part of it either on the move in fast water sections or holding up in pools and tailouts. One need only look at a salmon leaping through a class IV rapid to know thats true.
There's nothing manly about running big water because our top WW pro's happen to be women. I'm trying to tell you guys that if you want to access the whole river and not just show up, climb down the bank and sit in your kayak to fish like a lawn chair then you will need a higher paddling skillset to not suffer a horrible drowning death. Most good fishing rivers have a few hairy sections that you will need to stow your gear and steel yourself in order to negotiate. There are many wild and scenic rivers in North America (Canada/US). Don't any of you dream about taking a month and running an entire river system. You would need to know more than just what type of rod to bring or be stuck hiring guides like myself who won't guarantee you a fish but will guarantee your safety and Fun. Everybody has a little Lewis and Clark in them