Hobie screw-in pad eyes thread size?

I need a few Hobie screw-in pad eyes and such. They are pricey, so I was wondering how hard it might be to make some. I don't have real precise calipers, but they look to me like 15/16-12, and I can get aluminum bar in that diameter (not sure about plastic...). I think aluminum would work, and might be even better than the standard Hobie plastic inserts. The problem is that I believe that Hobie uses "buttress threads", which are angled like normal on the bottom side, but flat on the top side. I can't seem to find any place that sells a die with those kind of threads. Just wondering if anybody has any ideas...

Know anyone who owns a 3D printer? 

I really regret giving some away for free and the ncka person stiff me with the shipping fee. It wasn't the money but the principal & total ghosting.
Wish I could have given them to you instead. I might have more laying around so let me look.

3D print some?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6327692/files

I could print for you, but I'm a-ways away, up in the East Bay, Concord.  NCKA express, or snail mail maybe?

The only color PETG I have right now is an orangy-pink color though, haha.

Know anyone who owns a 3D printer? 

Ha, was typing my response when you posted this.

Yes, 3-d printing is an option, but I'm wondering how they would hold up to UV exposure, and whether the threads would be as strong as the real (Hobie) deal. I have not seen any made from aluminum, but it seems to me like that should work...

The possibilities are endless…

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1689042309/line-management-system-standard-close?ref=elp_anchor_listing&sts=1

I think durability would depend on what material is used, and which direction it was printed. PETG is super durable stuff.  If the shape of the print allows the orientation to print the layer lines perpendicular to the load, that gives the best shear strength. Generally speaking though, a better executed print is more important than perfect direction of the layer lines. Best case is when both can happen.

Are these just being used to fill a hole, or is there a load attached? 

Are these just being used to fill a hole, or is there a load attached?

Definitely some load is involved. For example, on the amas, these screw-ins hold bungee cords that attach to the aka bars. Even with doubled bungee cords, the akas are not held tight enough for my tastes (they can flop around a bit in rough conditions), and I'd like to customize it so that it's more rigid, while also keeping the bungee cords as backup. That will require some modified versions of the screw-in thingies...

Aren't they pipe thread and not straight thread?  I'll have to dig out my spares and measure them.

I can print them for you, if you'd like.

Let me know.

I have 4 copies printing now on a Form4L in Tough 1500 resin.

I didn't support the threads, though, so not sure how they will turn out. I'll let you know on Monday morning when I get back to work.

I have 4 copies printing now on a Form4L in Tough 1500 resin.

I didn't support the threads, though, so not sure how they will turn out. I'll let you know on Monday morning when I get back to work.

I could test the strength, as I’ve got some parts from an old hull that includes the threaded part…

A quickie update on this...

On Amazon, I found a 15/16-12 die for just $19, so I ordered it. Unfortunately, they sent me a 15/16-12 tap instead of a die. I complained, they refunded the money and, strangely, I get to keep the tap.

I tested the tap on the Hobie threaded inserts, and I believe that it is the correct size. The tap has standard threads, not the "buttress" threads that Hobie uses, but I'm pretty confident that it'll work--the only question is whether it'll have the same pullout resistance, due to the normal threads.

I re-ordered the die, and if they get the order right this time, I'll be able to test my theory...

Finally got it. Now I just need to find a 15/16 inch rod...