DIY PVC seat

I posted something about my DIY-PVC seat in a different thread, but now that it's been through several revisions, and I think I've more-or-less perfected it, I thought I'd start a separate thread.

The backstory is that on a pre-2015 AI/TI, the seat area is sure to get flooded with water, and I got tired of sitting in a puddle of water all day. So, I made a frame out of PVC pipe, and strung bungee cord over it as tight as possible. The first version worked OK, but was a bit too low in front. The second version was very comfy, but it was a bit too high. The 3rd version ended up in the trash (lots of swearing involved) as the glue set on the very last piece before the pipe was fully inserted into its fitting.

Finally, the fourth version seems to be exactly what I was looking for. The only down side is that the bottom of the main sail is now below head-height, but that's a lot less annoying than a wet butt. Some pictures are attached.

It's all 3/4" regular white PVC pipe. I glued it together (the usual PVC cement, no primer), and I'd recommend glueing it. It is possible to just put in screws to hold it together, making it easier to modify, but then it might squeak. It is a bit challenging to get everything square when gluing. Believe it or not, I found that the secret to squareness is to buy PVC pipe from Lowe's rather than Home Depot, as the pipe from Lowe's can be fully inserted into fittings and taken apart, while the pipe from Home Depot could only be inserted about half way into fittings. Being able to completely pre-assemble everything is a huge plus, as then you can square everything, and mark exactly how the pipe and fitting need to join.

Also, the extra brace across the underside is worth including, as without that, the pipe tends to bow in quite a bit under the pressure of the bungee cord (not to mention the weight of the butt). Adding a second brace would not be unreasonable. The brace was a bit tricky, as part of the inside of the fittings needs to be filed off (pipe is not supposed to slide through the middle third of a T fitting). I did that modification with a sanding pad on an angle grinder (gotta be very careful not to melt/burn the PVC too much). I didn't bother to glue the modified T onto the pipe as the bungee cord should hold it in place. Finally, the curvy piece on the front is not necessary--it's just something I happened to have lying around (or, possibly, laying around) that was the right length. Finally finally, I also plan to put some rubber feet under the bottom front pipe, since it doesn't exactly match up with the shape of the kayak. If you are really good at bending PVC pipe, it might be possible to make the pipe lay flat against the kayak, but that would be tricky, as the hull is not perfectly symmetric.

If anybody wants precise lengths of the pipes used, LMK.

nice job.

Thats an awesome way to make a custom seat dang! I am currently trying to make a bass pro ascend seat for my outback but of course the dimensions arnt working out very nicely.

One cool item Im using to clip the seat in place are these rubber marine light pole storage clips: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001449E30?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I'm also using a metal shovel/tool mount to secure my seat in place.

Yours looks light and the customizability is perfect.

Thats an awesome way to make a custom seat dang! I am currently trying to make a bass pro ascend seat for my outback but of course the dimensions arnt working out very nicely.

One cool item Im using to clip the seat in place are these rubber marine light pole storage clips: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001449E30?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I'm also using a metal shovel/tool mount to secure my seat in place.

Yours looks light and the customizability is perfect.

Those brackets look useful.

I forgot to mention that for my seat, the brackets that hold the seatback in place were cut out of 3/4" starboard plastic. To hold the seat bottom in place, I used this style of paddle holder bracket

https://www.amazon.com/Housedeco-Including-Mounted-Universal-Fishing/dp/B07DMD8Q3P/?th=1

but, I've used this type before, and they are a lot sturdier

https://www.amazon.com/PROPEL-SHORELINE-Mounting-Heavy-Duty-Construction/dp/B017P3AY7I/

I've been considering doing the same thing to the Tarpon 140 I just got. My concern is that raising the center of gravity will compromise the stability. Thought's?

I've been considering doing the same thing to the Tarpon 140 I just got. My concern is that raising the center of gravity will compromise the stability. Thought's?

It will make it tippy, which isn't a concern when you have outriggers. 

I've been considering doing the same thing to the Tarpon 140 I just got. My concern is that raising the center of gravity will compromise the stability. Thought's?

It will make it tippy, which isn't a concern when you have outriggers.

Al's correct, at least if you raise it as much as I did. My butt is about 4 or 5 inches higher, and it would definitely affect the stability if I used it in kayak mode.

I had tried a bleacher seat as well for my outback, and it put me further back and changing the trim that much also effected my center of gravity and I felt tippy moving around (even in the big 19+ outback).

I always enjoyed sitting at the top setting of the vantage seat so im eager to try this ascend seat and see how it effects my balance.

Beautiful build. The only downside is PVC is brittle. It will eventually break. It's only a matter of time. But I guess having a broken seat at sea is not catastrophic.

Beautiful build. The only downside is PVC is brittle. It will eventually break. It's only a matter of time. But I guess having a broken seat at sea is not catastrophic.

Painting it would probably extend the life by quite a bit, as it get more brittle from UV exposure...

Great adaptation, very cool.

If this is the iteration you are satisfied with, I’d consider re-making it from HDPE pipe. Reason being that PVC degrades and can break into shards with sharp points and edges.

HDPE (harder to find and more $) will stretch and rebound until it is under much higher stress and then will tear, but not filet your backside.

Great adaptation, very cool.

If this is the iteration you are satisfied with, I’d consider re-making it from HDPE pipe. Reason being that PVC degrades and can break into shards with sharp points and edges.

HDPE (harder to find and more $) will stretch and rebound until it is under much higher stress and then will tear, but not filet your backside.

Wouldn't HDPE pipe be too flexible in a similar diameter?

I'd be tempted to just make it out of aluminum tubing. Bend one long piece to the desired shape, get the next size larger pipe to sleeve the joint, and braze in place. Lightweight and will outlast the kayak.

I'd be tempted to just make it out of aluminum tubing. Bend one long piece to the desired shape, get the next size larger pipe to sleeve the joint, and braze in place. Lightweight and will outlast the kayak.

That's a good idea. I might give it a try. Any advice on bending aluminum tubing?

Great adaptation, very cool.

If this is the iteration you are satisfied with, I’d consider re-making it from HDPE pipe. Reason being that PVC degrades and can break into shards with sharp points and edges.

HDPE (harder to find and more $) will stretch and rebound until it is under much higher stress and then will tear, but not filet your backside.

Wouldn't HDPE pipe be too flexible in a similar diameter?

Perhaps utilize sch 80 rather than sch 40 if flexibility is an issue?