Has anyone added a bulkhead connector to transducer?

I've always kept 5200 as a "lest resort" due to the "permanent" factor.  I might give that idea a try with goop or duct seal.  I had the same concept idea.  Glad to see others did too....

~Bill

I was thinking the same thing on the 5200. But the silicone really seems to be holding fine. This system seems to be working great. Let me know if you have any questions.

I've also had good luck with Epoxy & transducer installation, though I believe the new methods I've learned from NCKA are better than the epoxy method I've used in the past ... though it worked for me.

Thanks for sharing your ideas & tips!  My transducer is a bit larger so I am not sure a piece of 4" will work.

~Bill

Ductseal.

I can teem to find the picture of it but railblaza makes a flush mount plate that might be your answer. It includes a small jumper cable for lowrance units. Your cable plugs in to the back of the port and the included jumper cable stays on the deck. No cutting required. You would need two of the mounts but it would be cheaper then two FF.
personally I would build a completely removable set up, battery and wiring in a waterproof box and transducer over the side. Mount the whole thing on a ram mount and its easy to move between kayaks.

Are you sure it was Railblaza?  I thought I had at least one of everything they make....   

~Bill

Thanks for the tips guys.  I've read that problem is due to electrical noise after disturbing the cable shielding.  I would think that using a shielded connector and the proper technique a noise free connection should be possible.

The transducer in the Revo is mounted to the inside the hull with vasoline and held in place with a foam cutout.  It works OK in rivers and lakes but I've never sounded anything over maybe 150'.  I just run the cable through the front hatch diagonal to the seal and store the mount inside the hull when not using it.  I've been through some rough water and even rolled it in a breaker without getting more than a few teaspoons of water inside the hull.

The Torque came with a scupper mount transducer and has two holes in the boat for cable entry and exit allowing the cable coil can be stowed inside.  Guess I'll use this setup for now.

I've always tried to minimize having to add extensions or cut/splice a transducer cable whenever possible to prevent the chance of tweaking it.  Never ran into issues with coiling the extra cable.  Had to move the coil away from the compass one one yak.  I also try not to run the power cable near the coil to prevent noise in the power.  Doing this has worked for me so I'm adopting the "if it ain't broke" methodology.

~Bill

I think your over thinking this. So one transducer permanently mounted in each kayak, then switching the head unit is what your trying to accomplish right?
Could you just install a spare transducer on your other kayak. Using any thru hull wire seal just leave a pig tail on the deck. Most of the time it will be hooked up when your on the water. If the kayak is on the water and its not hooked up just load it up with dielectric grease and cap it. Hobie through hull wiring kit is $12 and comes with 2 fittings one for each kayak.

Those Hobie thru hull wiring kits are NICE.  I've installed a few myself; including 1 on BigJims yak.

Proven BigJim tough!!!!

Yea, I'm probably over thinking this. I tend to do that.  I'll probably just order another Humminbird mount or a second lower end model with the same mount.  By the time you buy a mount transducer and power cable it not that much more for one of the cheaper grey scale models.

it is not the length of the cable that is the issue with cutting, it's ensuring the quality of the splice

I've shortened and spliced the transducer connection without a problem. Been working fine for years now. Epoxied one into my first yak. That produced the best image.

For me installing a transducer in each yak, and move the head, has worked fine.