Some pots in bad spots - HMB crabbing - move 'em or lose 'em

My walmart has 75 ft of lead core rope for $17. I'm in the process of switching over

If you its the yellow color leaded rope stay from it.  It tangles easily.  I have bought one and after one use never used it again. 
I use the green leaded rope at OPS, too bad they closed and its great stuff.  Easy to coil and never seem to self tangle.

http://ezpull.net/shop/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=AMS194G

This any good?

At last weekend's opener, I saw a few buoys inside the harbor with "BEALY" written on them. Probably the same clueless dude.

The Islanders were several miles from the jaws. The drift was so fast by the time I pulled and emptied a trap I was half way to Bean Hollow.  Yeah it does piss me off when kayakers drop in the boat lane and/or don't weight their ropes. 

Can you give advice on how you weight your ropes? i just bought a couple traps and the leaded rope is a little expensive for my taste, thanks for any info,

I just zip tie a sinker of a few ounces 5 feet below the float.

Depending on how deep you put your pots and how long your rope is, 5 feet may not cut it.  With enough slack, your line will loop back to the surface or just below it.

For 50 feet of line working in 20-40 feet of water, I put a 6-8 ounce weight 1/2 way down at 25 feet.  Tie an overhand loop on a bite and zip tie to it.

-Allen

-Allen

The Islanders were several miles from the jaws. The drift was so fast by the time I pulled and emptied a trap I was half way to Bean Hollow.  Yeah it does piss me off when kayakers drop in the boat lane and/or don't weight their ropes. 

Can you give advice on how you weight your ropes? i just bought a couple traps and the leaded rope is a little expensive for my taste, thanks for any info,

I just zip tie a sinker of a few ounces 5 feet below the float.

Depending on how deep you put your pots and how long your rope is, 5 feet may not cut it.  With enough slack, your line will loop back to the surface or just below it.

For 50 feet of line working in 20-40 feet of water, I put a 6-8 ounce weight 1/2 way down at 25 feet.  Tie an overhand loop on a bite and zip tie to it.

-Allen

-Allen

Good point Allen. Mine actually may be a bit further down. I also some really thin line (like paracord) so its not floating.

Thanks for posting jwr. As far as line weights go simple is best. The hollow lead weight that are made to crimp onto the line work great.

Even better is the leadcore line. For the depths we fish in the kayak and the amount of gear we run the cost is minimal. I think I payed twenty bucks for 150 ft of it at the old OPS. That's enough for two or three danielson pots.

I think lots of people spend more time and money trying to improvise something rather than just buying the right thing in the first place.

In this case it's giving all of us yakers a bad name and creating a serious hazars for the boats.


-Eliot

Does anyone know for certain that this is even a kayaker.  The assumptions are always there but there's always small aluminums and and other junkers lurking around the harbor entrance that I think are more apt to dropping there and using improper rigging.

One guy saying he seen a kayaker with yellow line doesn't say much but apparently its enough to pull out the pitchforks and start the stupid threads about kayakers using bleach bottle pot floats .





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If you say the title of this post three times in quick succession while playing the F major chord, it sounds like a hit country song. 

Its not likely a pb. More likely some thoughtless kayaker whose physical conditioining couldnt match his desire for crab and he just said f it ima drop gear right here im pooped cant paddle/ pedal no further this chit is hi vis enuff its easily avoidable

The Islanders were several miles from the jaws. The drift was so fast by the time I pulled and emptied a trap I was half way to Bean Hollow.  Yeah it does piss me off when kayakers drop in the boat lane and/or don't weight their ropes. 

Can you give advice on how you weight your ropes? i just bought a couple traps and the leaded rope is a little expensive for my taste, thanks for any info,

I use the inexpensive crab rope weights. One weight is enough to keep the rope off the surface. They sell them at the tackle store at HMB. I used to use the ChuckE pool noodle paracord stuff for a year or 2 but switched to commercial stuff when I got serious about crabbing. It is easier to see and easier to pull. I use red rope for hoops and yellow ropes for pots so I know how to pull them.

Thanks for posting jwr. As far as line weights go simple is best. The hollow lead weight that are made to crimp onto the line work great.

Even better is the leadcore line. For the depths we fish in the kayak and the amount of gear we run the cost is minimal. I think I payed twenty bucks for 150 ft of it at the old OPS. That's enough for two or three danielson pots.

I think lots of people spend more time and money trying to improvise something rather than just buying the right thing in the first place.

In this case it's giving all of us yakers a bad name and creating a serious hazars for the boats.


-Eliot

+1

Don't skimp on getting the right gear! As far as setting up crab pots, lines, and floats, read the tutorial below. It has EVERYTHING one needs to know about crabbing. I undestand its written for P/B'ers, but it will still work fine for yakers. The good part is your crab numbers will go up!!!!

http://coastsidefishingclub.com/grey-beard-articles/crabbing-guide/

Bump,

There were a lot of bout's in the boat lane today not sure if its any of us but just wanted to make sure we all know its not just the fact that you will prolly loose your gear, but it can cause major damage and possible danger to a pb. use common sense guys and do the right thing. there are plenty of good crabbing spots further away from the lane

I'm not a crabber, but why doesn't someone just move them.  Especially if it is going to give us a bad rep in the community.  I do fish there so prefer not to get the stink eye from others.

I zip tie, then snip the excess tie, then wrap it several times in electrical tape.  This helps keep the sharp zip tie ends from chaffing the rest of the rope and cutting it prematurely.