Hobie Revolution Downrigger Mount (with parts list)

After completing my downrigger mount project, I figured it would be good to share to the community. I did a ton of research ahead of time, and ended up using the same method as Pmmpete. You can view his original post here: http://www.yakfisher.net/smffiles/index.php?topic=9918.0

Here's a video of me installing and removing the downrigger mount. You can see how fast and easy this is.



Parts Needed:

• (2) YakAttack GearTrac 4" trac: http://www.austinkayak.com/products/17985/YakAttack-Gear-Trac-GTTL90-4-Inch-Top-Loading-Aluminum-Mounting-Track.html
• (2) YakAttack GearTrack backing plates: http://www.austinkayak.com/products/9163/YakAttack-GT90-4-inch-Backing-Plate.html
• (2) YakAttack 1.5" Mightybolts: https://www.austinkayak.com/products/12441/YakAttack-MightyBolt-15-in-6-pk.html
• (1) HDPE (marine lumber) sheet to cut top plate and support leg: http://www.amazon.com/Seaboard-Density-Polyethylene-Finish-Length/dp/B00JPHTPCI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01
• (2) 1/4" x 20 star knobs: http://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Components-AN4C-5S221-steel-insert/dp/B00GORWKB0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
• Misc hardware (stainless bolts, washers, nuts, t-nuts, screws, angle brackets for bottom support) - will vary depending on your downrigger type and mounting plate

Things to Consider:

• You'll notice on the bottom view, I used two t-nuts (blind nuts) on one side. This was for two reasons: 1) On my downrigger mounting plate, one hole aligned right on top of the gear trac so I had to flush mount. 2) I discovered that my paddle would not sit in the paddle holder due to the nut on the bottom and not enough clearance. Easy fix.
• I first ordered the YakAttack knobs, however, they are 100% plastic and have a small diameter base. Instead, I found the other ones on Amazon which have a nut insert and a much wider base, keeping the unit more stable. They are like $7 for a pack of 10 - if you shot at the box stores, they want $7/each!
• I angled my downrigger slightly forward so that I could keep my boom longer to help with line feeding due to how the Scotty Depthmaster 1050's spool line. Works great.

Very nice!

I've got the same DR and a similar setup on my Hobie Adventure/Revo 16. But, I didn't use a track---mine attaches to a Scotty mount inside the pocket (and it also has a solid attachment point inside the cup holder), and I raised the pulley on the shortened DR bar.

Be sure to use braid instead of a wire cable, carry a knife, and practice so that you can cut the line instantly, if need be. Last year, a whale crossed my DR line...

Very nice! That should work great!


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Good info. But even better documentation! Thank you.

That is awesome. I'm sure all this info will help others. Great video and read!

Nice job, G-Force! I like the way you used gear track to attach your base to the gunwale, as that is easier than mounting sealed nuts inside the gunwale, like I did.  I also like that you mounted the Scotty Depthmaster base on your base, because if you need to paddle your kayak,  that makes it a lot easier to take your downrigger off your gunwale and throw it in a hatch, while leaving your base attached to the gunwale.  When I made the mount for my Cannon Lake-Troll which you mentioned in the first paragraph of your post, I bolted the downrigger to my base, which means I need to unbolt my base from the gunwale if I want to get the downrigger off the gunwale, which is harder to do than it is to simply slide the downrigger out of its base.  About the only thing I wish I had done differently on my Cannon Lake-Troll base is that I wish that I'd bolted the Cannon base to my base, rather than bolting the downrigger to my base.

A couple questions: (a) why did you decide to use two short sections of gear track to attach the downrigger to the gunwale, rather than one long section, and (b) what obstacles are there inside the right gunwale of 2015 and later Revolutions which make it harder to attach a gear track to the gunwale? (I have a 2014 Revolution, and haven't checked out the area inside the gunwale on a 2015 or later Revolution).

Sweet setup! 

Thanks, everyone! Hopefully others can find this useful if/when they decide to add a downrigger.

Be sure to use braid instead of a wire cable, carry a knife, and practice so that you can cut the line instantly, if need be. Last year, a whale crossed my DR line...

Yep, using PowerPro braided downrigger line and have a knife attached to my PFD for quick cutting. A whale!? I bet that was interesting...

A couple questions: (a) why did you decide to use two short sections of gear track to attach the downrigger to the gunwale, rather than one long section, and (b) what obstacles are there inside the right gunwale of 2015 and later Revolutions which make it harder to attach a gear track to the gunwale? (I have a 2014 Revolution, and haven't checked out the area inside the gunwale on a 2015 or later Revolution).

A) Since the gear track is wider than the edge of the kayak where the cup holder is, I wanted to make it cleaner looking and not have the track overlap the cup holder. Probably just an OCD thing. Also, not sure if the backing plate would be able to fit in that section due to the thinness of that area.
B) Aside from the rudder lines and the upper-right screw holding in the map pocket, there are no obstructions and even those aren't in the way - just enough clearance for the backing plate and screws.