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Topic: rivets vs screws for flush-mount rod holders?  (Read 10096 times)

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Sin Coast

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I am helping a friend install some flush-mount rod holders on his Scrambler this afternoon (behind the seat). He doesn't have the center hatch installed so we have no way to get inside the hull and secure the screws w/nuts.
My question is: how should we secure them?
I have those fancy pop-rivets they sell at Hook1. And I also have a bunch of SS screws (both machine and wood threads).

As a side note: we've been talking about the idea of super-gluing some nylon-threaded nuts inside the hull...hoping they catch when we put the screws in. Is that a bad idea?
Thanks guys!!! And La Mosca thanks you too!
PK
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EWB

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i think you gotta go with blind rivets. Three with some goop should hold them fine. The wide lip of the flush mount will really limit the torque.
-Eric Berg


AlsHobieOutback

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Always screws, unless ya cant reach, then Rivets would be the next best way to go. Or wellnuts, but i've seen a lot of them come un-done with too much pressure, like rolling over in the surf with a rod in it.  I fixed my friends flushmounts that were installed with wellnuts by OK by popping some rivets in and it felt pretty good to me. You could also put in a hatch  :smt003
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snapperhead

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i think you gotta go with blind rivets. Three with some goop should hold them fine. The wide lip of the flush mount will really limit the torque.

 I second this post. A friend put the well nuts in and with a rod in it does move a little; which will fail eventually. Rivets are very strong, used to build airplanes, and they are very easy to install.
"Life is like a school of rockfish, you never know what you're gonna get"


Sin Coast

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Did the deed last night, using rivets to secure the flush-mounts behind the seat. La Mosca's Scrambler is gonna be ready for the tourney! BTW it took some adjustments to get them to fit...because the Hook1 flush-mounts were too long, so we shortened them and created an end cap from a rubber chair-leg cap...random, I know, but it looks like it'll work!
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bajareefer

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Guys,
 For the technologically retarded, is there a kayak repair dept somewhere in the bay area?
Aqua would be great, but do they really do it?
 I mean you need a shop , no?
I saw a shop in San Diego and they could do anything ...fast.
I would like 2 flush mounts installed, a broken rivet repair and handles put on.
[The rivet is far back behind the hatches so it has to be a blind rivet. ]
Steve
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RHYAK

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When i use rivets they always break off a little too soon how do I fix that im left with 1/8 inch of sharp nail like material. yikes any help.


EWB

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Rhy I just use diagonal cutters. The material isn't that strong (it may be alum.) If its still sharp a few quick rubs with a file.
-Eric Berg


Sin Coast

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As an update, one of the flush-mounts on Mosca's yak busted during a recent crash-landing. The rivets didn't snap, but instead pulled-through. It was due to torque from a fishing rod when the yak rolled over. But we're gonna fix it. I'm starting to like Mosca's idea of supergluing a washer and nylon lock-nut inside the hull. 
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Jedmo

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I wouldn't go any other way. As long as I can reach to have a fender washer and
a nylon lock nut inside the better. I only go rivets where I have no choice. Just my
.02 cents.

Jedmo
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Sin Coast

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I agree 100% but there are no hatches in this Scrambler.
Still considering supergluing a washer and locknut inside...as long as glue doesn't get into the nut's threads, it should work. First glue the nut to the washer, then glue the washer inside the hull and screw-in the rod holders...I think.
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I agree 100% but there are no hatches in this Scrambler.
Still considering supergluing a washer and locknut inside...as long as glue doesn't get into the nut's threads, it should work. First glue the nut to the washer, then glue the washer inside the hull and screw-in the rod holders...I think.

Sin , how are you going to get the nut and washer inside the kayak to fasten the machine screw to. Are you using a split rivet? I mean look at the rivet you are using. It should be 1/2 to 3/4 inches long and you should see splits in the sides of the rivet that will be below the deck. When you pull the rivet up tight these legs will fold in on themselves and give you enough strength for sure. Are you using the round flush mounts or the rectangular ones? The rectangular ones have holes for 4 rivets. Coupled with marine goop around the base of the mount should provide plenty of strength. Plus the fact that if you are taking something and then applying an extreme amount of force they will pull through. Put a hatch in that bitch and bolt through for maximum strength with SS  screws and nuts with a backing plate.
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bmb

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pk, from what i could tell when we were in BS, part of the problem that the flushmount fell apart is that the hole was not exactly the right size, putting too much pressure on the flushmount.


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I agree 100% but there are no hatches in this Scrambler.
Still considering supergluing a washer and locknut inside...as long as glue doesn't get into the nut's threads, it should work. First glue the nut to the washer, then glue the washer inside the hull and screw-in the rod holders...I think.

... 4 rivets. Coupled with marine goop around the base of the mount should provide plenty of strength. Plus the fact that if you are taking something and then applying an extreme amount of force they will pull through. Put a hatch in that bitch and bolt through for maximum strength with SS  screws and nuts with a backing plate.

I was just in this thread for a little research, and the above just F'n cracked me up!  :smt044  Tellin' it like it is, Ravensblack, tellin' it like it is.
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I agree 100% but there are no hatches in this Scrambler.
Still considering supergluing a washer and locknut inside...as long as glue doesn't get into the nut's threads, it should work. First glue the nut to the washer, then glue the washer inside the hull and screw-in the rod holders...I think.

Given the choice I would rather have a rivet pull through during a crash rather than crack a BIG hole in my boat. If you strengthen the attachment to the point where it becomes stronger than the plastic you're attaching to then you'll simply transfer the force to the hull. I couldn't find it in a search, but I remember seeing pics of another crash where the screws used to hold the flush mount held strong, so when the crash occurred the whole flush mount ripped out taking an equally large piece of the kayak hull with it.

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