Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
June 22, 2026, 07:23:57 PM

Login with username, password and session length

Recent Topics

[Today at 06:15:09 PM]

[Today at 06:11:58 PM]

[Today at 04:58:29 PM]

[Today at 01:18:35 PM]

[Today at 09:42:48 AM]

by Clb
[Today at 08:32:50 AM]

[June 21, 2026, 09:37:27 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 05:01:05 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 04:33:06 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 04:12:35 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 03:18:06 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 09:14:42 AM]

[June 19, 2026, 09:49:48 PM]

[June 19, 2026, 09:24:12 PM]

[June 19, 2026, 07:49:09 PM]

[June 19, 2026, 07:47:25 PM]

[June 19, 2026, 07:05:08 AM]

[June 18, 2026, 06:59:04 PM]

[June 18, 2026, 05:48:32 PM]

[June 18, 2026, 10:20:30 AM]

[June 17, 2026, 09:17:11 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 07:32:39 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 07:28:28 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 04:56:55 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 03:38:12 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 02:34:57 PM]

Support NCKA

Support the site by making a donation.

Topic: FF and Rod Rotor  (Read 3280 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Marmite

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: San Jose
  • Date Registered: Jul 2006
  • Posts: 654
A member inquired about how I set up my rotating support for my rods and fishfinder.  He has some visual difficulties and wanted to have the fishfinder closer for better viewing.

The rotor slips into a standard Scotty mount that is bolted to two beveled acrylic blocks (internal and external) to compensate for the Tarpon 140's inclined surface.  The rotor is made of aluminum channel with holes drilled out to allow the Scotty mounts to be adjusted with respect to one another and to where I am sitting depending on which rods I am using.  (I am thinking of making the arm out of carbon fiber in the next iteration to lighten it further.) The FF is on a separate, small, rotating arm that can be extended and can mounted in any of the holes. 

The goal was to have a mounting system that allowed me maximum flexibility but didn't hinder paddling, didn't require putting more holes in my kayak and could easily be moved out of the way in case I needed to clear the deck for a big hali or ling.  With the rotor centered, I can put two rods out and angled forward enough to clear my paddle. With one hand you can loosen it up and swing it to the side or forward to clear the deck.  The rotor can also accomodate a Scotty downrigger.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2007, 02:35:39 PM by Marmite »


Sin Coast

  • AOTY committee
  • Global Moderator
  • Pat Kuhl
  • Turf Image
  • Location: Mbay
  • Date Registered: Jul 2006
  • Posts: 14710
OK Doug…now you're just showin off! LOL!
Very nice handy work there. Thank you for the detailed pics and descritions. This post is timely because I am in the process of outfitting my newly-acquired T140. And I was actually considering PMing you to ask for some pics of your setup. So, thanks!

The only concern I have is that this rig might inhibit access to the fore hatch (but it looks like you can probably swing it to the side so its out of the way). And the 'crash-landing-survivability factor.' Yes, I just coined a new phrase. Granted, you can probably remove all the hardware and store it in the hatch if you foresee a rough launch/landing…but you never really know WHEN the crash is gonna happen.


I like the idea of securing a cutting board in the footwell. I'm trying to find one to fit in there too.
What is in the drink holder? I see something in there.


Oh, and nice pool too! I like how you made it look like the kayak is in the water. Very cool.

Sorry about all the Q's. And thanks for sharing some pics of your sweet rig!
PK
Photobucket Sucks!

 Team A-Hulls

~old enough to know better, young enough to not care~


Marmite

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: San Jose
  • Date Registered: Jul 2006
  • Posts: 654
PK,

The rotor can be positioned to one side in order to access the hatch.  Usually I would put my rods in rear holders to keep them out of the way.  You can scoot forward and lean your chest over the rotor and reach forward to open the hatch.  Actually the rotor acts as a handle by which you can also stay "glued" to the yak and apply pressure to compensate for any tipping.  When the rotor is positioned backward you can also use this "handle" to stabilize yourself and the yak when you are reaching into your back tankwell. 

Since you are one of only a few that share the T140, I thought you might be interested in another tip for rigging yours.  I found that the stainless steel canisters that you can buy at Orchard Supply (in the kitchen section) for about $12 fits perfectly into the T140's middle hatch.  I use it to put weights and lures in that I want easy access to. If you are heavy enough to fill the cockpit with some water you need to keep the cover on, but if it's calm I often leave it off.  I little water can get in around the sides, but not much.  I cut out a ABS disc to set in the bottom so I don't dent and deform the canister when I drop weights in it.  BTW, the canister sits exactly where you would take a leak sitting, so you can use it as a pee can and just rinse it out.  Make sure you have a cord to your hatch covers.  Had one blow off in transit--they cost $25.  Also, if you have lead in the canister make sure you unload it if you transport your kayak upside down like I do.  Otherwise the lead will pop the lid of while you are driving.

Regarding the "crash-landing-survivability factor".  If your coming in you can stow your rods (however), and position the rotor and FF arm straight forward.  I am considering attaching a velcro strap that would run from under the acrylic block and around the rotor to hold the Scotty post tightly in place in the event of flipping over.

Finally, you inquired about the drink holder.  I gooped some velcro in the bottom because I used to stick my SUUNTO Orca Kayak Compass in there and wanted it removable.  But I haven't found the velcro to be a reliable enough means of attachment.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2007, 08:08:37 PM by Marmite »


Sin Coast

  • AOTY committee
  • Global Moderator
  • Pat Kuhl
  • Turf Image
  • Location: Mbay
  • Date Registered: Jul 2006
  • Posts: 14710
That little SS canister is perfect! I was looking for a tupperware box to fit in ther for bait, tools, lures, etc. Idealsituation for a small bait bucket w/an aerator. Maybe for freshwater minnows.

I've begun outfitting my T140. Some pics of it are linked in my signature.
PK
Photobucket Sucks!

 Team A-Hulls

~old enough to know better, young enough to not care~


Hojoman

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • Location: Fremont, CA
  • Date Registered: Feb 2007
  • Posts: 32017
Doug, here is the Ram double swivel arm that I just received. It feels very sturdy. It looks like it should handle a 5" monitor with ease.

Howard




PISCEAN

  • no kooks please!
  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • humming to the bear...
  • Location: th' Doon, CA
  • Date Registered: Jun 2005
  • Posts: 8313
It just goes to show you can always learn something here, even on a thread that is months old!
I need to hit up the local OSH for one of those SS canisters for my tarpon. That's a really cool rigging tip, as my problem with the existing cat bag is that when I pull out my sunglasses, pliers, etc., the bag always comes out with 'em. Thanks Doug!
pronounced "Pie-see-in"
***
"Every day is a fishing day, but not every day is a catching day"-Countryman
***
sponsored by: Piscean Artworks
*****
Randomness rules the universe. Perseverance is the only path to success..but luck sometimes works too.