Garmin Striker 4 power corrosion - Solved!

Hi All,

I've had the Garmin Striker 4 for over a year now, enjoy the functionality, ease of use and price point.

my issue is corrosion on the power connectors.  I'm on my second power connector.  The first I fried as a dumb newb.  I did not protect it with dielectric grease, and after a few salty outings began to have issues and finally failed.

I replaced the power cable, applied dielectric grease - and things were good.  But even with frequent cleaning and re-application of the grease, my second power cable has now corroded beyond use.  Not sure what I can do to protect another cable.  The FF frequently gets splashed with salt water while I'm out, the power connection on the back is a simple plug in - not the screw down and seal type that I *believe* some of the FF units use.

I'd appreciate to hear how other Garmin Strike 4 users have kept their units running in salt water.

from my perspective, the power connection on S4 is a bit weak to begin with, considering the unit draws 1A of power, I would have gone with something beefier - but I guess this is part of how they keep the cost down, 22G wire and tiny connectors seem under design, I'm an electrical engineer, and I would have gone with something beefier even for a dry application.

I've considered opening the box and going with something much more HD, possibly an Anderson powerpole connector with a waterproof cover

Thanks,
Brian.

I also have a Striker 4 and was wondering why such a small power cord too.  Maybe the expect it to fail, and then sell either more random cords or whole new units?

I was thinking about adding a different connector (maybe trailer light style, since those tend to be weather resistant) somewhere in the cable, then permanently connecting into the back on the unit. A good dollop of dielectric grease on the connection, and maybe caulk/glue it in place in the back of the unit.

Silicone seal it..  cut the power cable and put it a weather connector at the splice.. for removal.

Silicone seal it..  cut the power cable and put it a weather connector at the splice.. for removal.

Boom!   

Maybe something like this? Seems to fit the bill.

https://www.customconnectorkits.com/wp04s-kit/

...my issue is corrosion on the power connectors. ...

I'm surprised to hear that. I have an older Garmin FF, and the power connector is nigh invulnerable. It's this style:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/garmin--6-nmea-0183-power-data-cable--16362014?gclid=CjwKCAjws8yUBhA1EiwAi_tpEZ6jftYbmVv57BRyiK_iG4kH4KgAvq5tvzdE66W5ps0kj0cw4fOxSRoCam0QAvD_BwE

I've got at least 8 years of use on the power connector, and it shows no sign of giving up the ghost. I rinse it as soon as possible after each use, and I slather it with dielectric grease less than once per year. I assume the Stryker 4 uses some other style connector...

...my issue is corrosion on the power connectors. ...

I'm surprised to hear that. I have an older Garmin FF, and the power connector is nigh invulnerable. It's this style:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/garmin--6-nmea-0183-power-data-cable--16362014?gclid=CjwKCAjws8yUBhA1EiwAi_tpEZ6jftYbmVv57BRyiK_iG4kH4KgAvq5tvzdE66W5ps0kj0cw4fOxSRoCam0QAvD_BwE

I've got at least 8 years of use on the power connector, and it shows no sign of giving up the ghost. I rinse it as soon as possible after each use, and I slather it with dielectric grease less than once per year. I assume the Stryker 4 uses some other style connector...

dang, don't know what I'm doing wrong. That is the same power connector I have.
I did abuse it at first, then replaced the power connector and babied it - as you say.  I rinse at the car, then again with a hose at home, and slather in dielectric grease, and it already looks nasty

mines the same BB, 2 yrs old and too much salt splash. I have to give it a vinegar spritz and a toothbrush before each sesh but at least she beeps on. There is also a burn mark on it.

Definitely getting a new plug and then doing this
 

Silicone seal it..  cut the power cable and put it a weather connector at the splice.. for removal.

appreciate all the feedback.

some new discoveries (on my part)
the replacement cable I bought (supposed to be Garmin genuine) had only 2 conductors - not four.  The cable for the G S4 has four wires (and the new cable does too)
Red: positive 12V
Black: negative/gnd 12V
Blue/Brown: Transmit and RCV to Echomap device.

interesting that the newer cable as the wires, but not conductors in the connector?

I was able to measure 12V at the connector, but not sure what it reads when current is flowing.

some corrosion on the fuse holder, and it broke the fuse when I tried to break it apart

I've also been using 'Contact Cleaner' which is a strong cleaner for electrical contacts...it is possible that this was too strong for the plating they use on the garmin connector.

I'm not soaking the original connector in white vinegar (as suggested above by Poopsmith.  Seems to do a nice job getting the corrosion out, and much weaker than the contact cleaner.

Sorry I am confused, is it the plug on the unit, or the end going to your battery that corroded? 

Sorry I am confused, is it the plug on the unit, or the end going to your battery that corroded?

good question - sorry, it's the cable.  I have two head end units and two cable setups.  Both head end units work on the 'good' cable, neither unit work on the 'bad' cable.  Though I'm starting to suspect the issues with the cable may be further down, fuse connections etc.  I'm going to replace the whole thing again, and this time, put it all in a dry box with the battery, see how that works.

Well if it's just the power cabling, you can cut out all the bad wire until you start seeing good wire, and then put on new connectors.  I highly recommend keeping it in a box or a bag or something.  I use these cheap Tupperware containers called Lock-n-lock and have severed me well but have also just used 1gallon zip locks and some electrical tape.  I cringe at the idea of leaving my battery and wiring exposed inside my hull.

Ok, I was about to throw in the towel, spend the $20 and replace the wiring...again.

but then remembered I don't do that, I spend endless hours, days, nights debugging stupid stuff like this.

tl;dr: I think it was the fuseholder

full story.  As I was pulling the wiring apart the fuse would not come free from the fuse holder.  I'd tried to fill the yellow fuse holder with dielectric goop, but apparently not well enough.

Today I went to the Lowes, and picked up an inline fuse holder, this time I went with a 'splash proof' automotive spade style fuse holder.  This has some nice advantages, mainly, it's a rubber holder, and I filled it with dielectric goop - and also 'gooped' the seal,  I soldered all the connections, wrapped in electrical tape.  Plugged in the G S4, hit the power button, and heard that chirp that brings happiness to my soul.  I'm thinking this was also the issue with my old cable, so I'll probably get another in line fuse and have a spare available.

pics for proof below

Well now...isn't that just Jim dandy!  I love it when these issues get solved in such a manner.

Silicone seal it..  cut the power cable and put it a weather connector at the splice.. for removal.

So smart, turns on every time now and is working great. My old power cable was loose and would shut down if I kicked it on accident.

Bunch of water proofing measures (shrink wrap connector, electrical tape, and the silicone tape over that). Just hope the weather connectors hold up but I have a bunch extra for the future. I have stopped using a fuse as that was the weakest link for a long time in my system.