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Topic: 3D printer job?  (Read 2734 times)

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bbt95762

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Hi NW, started a design in TinkerCad - free web based, surprisingly useful

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jSx70BGO9Pt-mighty-curcan-jaban/edit?sharecode=WKv0HT3UZaV6UahQUs3apDlSvlzGb1fPtsvP0GOQ510

that link allows you to edit it

I started with a cylinder, 1.625 in diameter
and an larger oval - that i guessed at the sizes

I (or others) can generate a file to print from this once we decide on it.

not sure what happened, but someone destroyed the design - could have been an accident.  NWM, let me know if you want me to re-create, and I can share with you on PM. 

Thanks,
Brian.

That was probably me. I tried to edit it, but couldn't see how to get the right shape with the limited options. The part that goes inside the aluminum aka bar is not elliptical, but a cylinder with 2 of the sides flattened--the intersection of a circle and a rectangle would give the desired shape.

I've downloaded a free version of Autodesk Fusion 360 and have played around with that a little too. But, it seems to be pretty complex, so I'll have to do thru a couple of tutorials to have any chance of doing something with that...

yah, autodesk is great, and very powerful.  I use that sometimes for more complex parts.  This one looked pretty simple though
1. cylinder to fit in the tube
2. oval on the outside of the tube
3. ring to avoid spray etc.

The key is the measurement for the cylinder which goes in the tube - that must be accurate to work.

Thanks,
Brian.


christianbrat

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  Interesting thread.  I've been curious about how 3d printers work, but never even tried to You Tube them. 
  But while reading, an idea, not necessarily a good idea, occurred to me: Instead of building up, why not whittle down?   Couldn't you find a block of some kind of semi-flexible material and cut away everything that doesn't look like what you want to end up with?

That is conventional manufacturing. 3d printing is additive mfg and conventional is subtractive.  The beauty of 3-D printing is that you're not confined by the geometric and physical limits of conventional machining, like hollow objects, overhangs, or other complex geometries that would either require insane fixtures, multiple parts mechanically joined, or just are not possible at all.

 Unfortunately it's being used for stupid things like fidget spinners and phone cases instead.

But yes this would be something you could turn on a lathe out of round stock.

The most common 3d printer is fdm printing, filament deposition method/mfg. Imagine a hot glue gun on a X/Y plotter (paper printer) now split a 3d object into sheets like a stack of paper, and print a bunch of images in the same thickness as your sheets. If you stack those sheets you get a 3d object, now back to hot glue, do it all in succession and the layers bond (not great but they do) and your object is "solid" (but not really because we print with variable densities).

Similarly you can do this with UV light and resins, curing resin strategically in layers, or with metal granules and high powered lasers, to sinter metal.

Lots of cool tech, vastly underutilized.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2022, 08:56:25 PM by christianbrat »
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SteveS doesn't kayak anymore

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yah, autodesk is great

Thanks,
Brian.

 :smt007.

Fusion360 and Tinkercad are both Autodesk products...


bbt95762

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christianbrat

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if you label Heights A-C and Diameter 1-3 i can make this for you in like 2 mins. pretend my squiggly lines are straight lol
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NowhereMan

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  Interesting thread.  I've been curious about how 3d printers work, but never even tried to You Tube them. 
  But while reading, an idea, not necessarily a good idea, occurred to me: Instead of building up, why not whittle down?   Couldn't you find a block of some kind of semi-flexible material and cut away everything that doesn't look like what you want to end up with?

I thought about this, since I've got some scraps of 1.5" thick starboard plastic, and I think I could fashion something workable out of it. But, it would be tedious to do by hand, and they'd weigh a lot unless hollowed out, which would seem to be a bit tricky. On they other hand, if someone has a 3D anti-printer that can strip away all of the excess material, it would be a breeze...
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lucky13

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… a 3D anti-printer that can strip away all of the excess material, it would be a breeze...

Yes there is. That’s called a lathe and a mill.


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NowhereMan

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if you label Heights A-C and Diameter 1-3 i can make this for you in like 2 mins. pretend my squiggly lines are straight lol

OK great!

1: 1"
2: 1.625"
3: 1.5" and 1.25" (but not oval; see attached image)
a: 1.25"
b: 0.125"
c: 1.625"

The lower part in the drawing is only about 1/8" thick and I can't directly measure the top part, but definitely thicker, like maybe 3/16".

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christianbrat

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ok it's done. Can the part be solid? it will be harder to print if not, and also much stronger if its solid. i can shell it out if it needs to be hollow, but it wont be a very strong part otherwise
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christianbrat

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oh yeah how big is the hole too?
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christianbrat

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heres it prettied up
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oh yeah how big is the hole too?

The hole in the top is 1/4". The top is rounded over at perhaps a 1/4" radius.

It could be solid, but there does need to be a hole through it for drainage.
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NowhereMan

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christianbrat

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Okay perfect I guessed .25" for the hole. i'll make 2 versions. Here they are: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1V7kyk7vf8LaBqfbh4QG8ZWkBJlt-xKZl?usp=sharing
i think buying the part for 10 dollars is probably the best option btw. the injection molding process is physically and chemically different and produces way more durable parts.  the fdm printing process is a purely mechanical bond here injection molding is a chemical bond.  If printed, using the solid part will be easiest and strongest
« Last Edit: April 13, 2022, 10:04:24 AM by christianbrat »
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Rock Hopper

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If someone wants to send me an .stl file of that part I can print it on Monday.
« Last Edit: April 16, 2022, 01:51:30 PM by Rock Hopper »

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