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Topic: Downrigger Weight  (Read 4967 times)

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AlsHobieOutback

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Starting out with a DR on my Outback, I went with what I thought was an adequate 2.5lb fish/torpedo style weight form Fisherman's Warehouse.  But recently reading posts it seemed like a 4lb is better so I ordered a new 4lb torpedo from FW https://www.fishermanswarehouse.com/product/great-downrigger-fish-weight/79859


 I'm really not noticing much of a difference, although I'm sure it's helping to keep the line a bit more vertical, there is still significant angle to my DR line.  I've seen more pictures and suggestions to use a round weight, and of course PB's seem to use finned weights.  Does the shape matter much in your experience, or what type do you prefer.  I like that the torpedo never spins, but it might have more drag than just a round one, or a finned round one.  I've also heard complaints about finned ones having vibration/sway and have no problems with that on the torpedo.

"A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for."

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P-Sherman

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I've been using exactly just that for lake fishing and it's worked well for me for years now. It does have some slight scope, are you using braid line for your downrigger? It will help with vibration and drag. Move up to 6-8 lb finned ball weight if you want more vertical line.
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Califbill

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I have gone to stick weights for lakes.  Most of mine are around 8#.   I take 1.5” piece of poly plumbing pipe around 10” long and tape the end, put in a box and pour sand around the pipe to near the top and melt lead in a pot I bought at Goodwill and pour in to the pipe.   Add a loop of brass brazing rod.   Now I have a nice approx 8# plastic coated weight.   Does not hang no much if I hit bottom and cost of lead if I lose.   I bought some lead a few years ago on Craigslist for a buck a pound.


AlsHobieOutback

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I use 150LB Power Pro for my cable.  That metal one I couldn't stand the hum at all.  I do re-tie the clip every so often, or if I hit ground.  But hasn't failed on me yet and like others wisely mentioned, I can cut it off with one swipe of my PFD knife.
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Sea-bree

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I use 150LB Power Pro for my cable.  That metal one I couldn't stand the hum at all.  I do re-tie the clip every so often, or if I hit ground.  But hasn't failed on me yet and like others wisely mentioned, I can cut it off with one swipe of my PFD knife.
+1 the braid is so much quieter, worth switching to spectra for that alone.
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SmokeOnTheWater

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I think with a 4# weight, any faster than 1.5mph, it won't be as vertical, but even then its not that bad.  Also, you won't notice much difference with the torpedo/fish shaped vs the ball.  If I had to guess, the ball would likely have more drag. 
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Califbill

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Found a picture of the homemade stick weight.


NowhereMan

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I use 150LB Power Pro for my cable.  That metal one I couldn't stand the hum at all.  I do re-tie the clip every so often, or if I hit ground.  But hasn't failed on me yet and like others wisely mentioned, I can cut it off with one swipe of my PFD knife.

You could use a lot lighter braid for a 4lb (or even 6) weight, which would reduce drag. I like the 6lb cast iron ball that they sell at Bass Pro, and I've got a couple of spares if you want one.
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AlsHobieOutback

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I watched one of Cal Kellog's videos last night where he uses a cylinder shaped weight as well and seems to prefer it.  I'm thinking of trying one, but the fish weight never has any twist, but i'm not sure if that's really bothersome or not. 

In the ocean I might wanna try a heavier weight when trolling on the DR, so may hit you up for that later NWM!
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dan916

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I use a 6# downrigger weight in blue glitter from fathom offshore. Very little drag with #150 braided line and the sable of the weight.
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Sea-bree

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I watched one of Cal Kellog's videos last night where he uses a cylinder shaped weight as well and seems to prefer it.  I'm thinking of trying one, but the fish weight never has any twist, but i'm not sure if that's really bothersome or not. 

In the ocean I might wanna try a heavier weight when trolling on the DR, so may hit you up for that later NWM!
This stick weights are all I run now, they allow you to bounce bottom with less risk of snagging. I think they cut through the water better too, at least when you get the right diameter pipe.

I made some by buying sections of galvanized pipe and poured lead. I’ve also picked up SS weights from bottom line tackle. The 8 lb long skinny stick was the best option for me.
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AlsHobieOutback

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Sounds like most aren't afraid of more weight, and there are lots of options.  I guess I'll try experimentation with something heavier and see how it is.  Going from 2.5 makes it hard to want to try 8, but i'm not really having much luck using my DR and have been trying to get that dialed in.  Really like trolling for trout, and have a ridiculous amount of tackle to use for it  :smt044 
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Califbill

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I think I would make a PVC pipe stick weight.  Lead is 0.4# per cubic inch.  1.5” pvc works out to about 0.5# per inch of length.  1 1/2” would make a nice skinny stick.   So a 10” length would give about 5# weight.   Make one with a 12” length and fill 10”.   If need more weight, pour some loose lead in to the last 2” to give you around 6#.  Try that on your downrigger.


NowhereMan

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I watched one of Cal Kellog's videos last night where he uses a cylinder shaped weight as well and seems to prefer it.

 Maybe window sash as weight:

https://www.ifish.net/threads/my-new-downrigger-weight.1524562/
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AlsHobieOutback

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That looks very cool!  Wonder if I can find something like that around town.
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